UCA question - thoughts and of course opinions welcome.

Update: 100% Satisfied with my Camburg BJ UCA's. I'm still loving the ride and with nearly 2 degrees of caster and camber and toe in the green she drives much better than the 0 degrees I had with stock UCA's. I have had no issues thus far with my Camburg BJ UCA'S. I've been driving with just under 2 degrees of caster for about 10 years so I can't offer any feedback compared to a T4R with 3-4.5 degrees of caster. I'll update again when I increase tire size to 275's or 285's in another 10,000-15,000 miles.

I think the SPC (sounds like all,issues are resolved) are still a great choice if you want adjustment in UCA's.

I think JBA's are a great BJ choice if you want more Castor (I let an unpleasant interaction with owner jade my judgement on these) than the Camburg.

I think UB UCA's are a great choice if you want more articulation and a more durable UCA (with a little TLC from time to time). I would have probably gone Total Chaos if I went that route.

I'm glad this thread is helping other members get information about UCA's for their T4R's!


What are your final alignment numbers?
 
In you research, did you happen to find out if the cheaper Ebay UCAs (around $100/pair) are simply replacement in kind w/o any type of caster corrections?

I did not research the EBay UCA's. Some have had success with them, but I was/am a little skeptical. As I haul my family I was ok spending a little more $$'s on brands we all know and love.
 
Ahh, gotcha. Apparently, I don't know all the lingo yet :biggrin1:

In you research, did you happen to find out if the cheaper Ebay UCAs (around $100/pair) are simply replacement in kind w/o any type of caster corrections?

Most likely, if they added caster it would be mentioned.

I would stay away from eBay UCAs, there's definitely a wide variance in bearing quality between the cheapest knock-offs, and legitimate manufacturers.
 
I just installed my JBA's. I went from 0.5 degrees of caster to 3.5 degrees. The install the pretty easy, but it is hard to get the drivers side bolt all the way out. I had the replaced my LCA on my drivers side too which was more of a pain. I'm sitting around a 2.5" lift.
 
This is my alignment as it is now. Once I install the Rokmans and get the alignment done I'll post those numbers

But for the current alignment, to me it's off a lot. Perhaps those who have more experience with alignments can tell me.
 

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What technique are people using for getting the tapered spindle (the nut with cotter pin) out? Using the hammer on the side trick to pop it out? I don't seem to hear people talking about that for disassembly discussion.
 
Can you tell me the amount of lift up front and what is the caster angle you got after the install? Assuming you got an alignment printout after the alignment.


Something like this
 

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uniball maintenance??

A bit off topic here, sorry. But I'm running icon tubular uniball UCAs. Love them, in conjuction with the icon extended travel coilovers they are great. I saw some comments regarding the uniballs themselves.

Does anyone know if they need to be lubricated or cleaned routinely? Thanks for any help!
 
A bit off topic here, sorry. But I'm running icon tubular uniball UCAs. Love them, in conjuction with the icon extended travel coilovers they are great. I saw some comments regarding the uniballs themselves.

Does anyone know if they need to be lubricated or cleaned routinely? Thanks for any help!

I'm not a uniball expert, but in my research, I uncovered most applied a couple drops of lube to the uniball. The frequency and type was determined by climate, squeaks, and or for preventative maintenance. I'd suggest checking Icon's website for their recommendation.
 
Camburg UCA corroded and rusty

So, I went to diagnose an annoying squeak in my front end. I disassembled my drivers side Camburg UCA as I was able to isolate the squeak. These images are what I found. Passenger side was just fine and I didn’t see or hear any issues. They have roughly 30,000 Colorado miles on them and were installed in May of 2016. Guess I made a poor decision on my UCA purchase and will be looking for new UCA’s when the squeak comes back (I greased the piss out of everything while thy were apart). Im hoping I can get a few quiet months before I have to buy UCA’s a second time! My T4R has less rust than this freaking joint!

Has anyone seen this type of crap in Camburg UCA’s before? Is this common with other ball joint UCA’s?
 

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Hey sorry if posting this in the wrong place, just registered and not sure how to use this site lol. I just got this 98 4runner and am curious how to tell if these shocks/ arm bars are shot. Yes I tried looking it up b4 posting. They’re not only make extremely loud creaking sound but every time I hit even a tiny bump it’s seems very stiff. The car came with these, the previous owner said there 2-3 years old How can I tell if these are still good? Is that just how they are?
 

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Hey sorry if posting this in the wrong place, just registered and not sure how to use this site lol. I just got this 98 4runner and am curious how to tell if these shocks/ arm bars are shot. Yes I tried looking it up b4 posting. They’re not only make extremely loud creaking sound but every time I hit even a tiny bump it’s seems very stiff. The car came with these, the previous owner said there 2-3 years old How can I tell if these are still good? Is that just how they are?



That’s actually pretty much top of the line gear. King suspension is very reliable. I’m guessing the sound of your nose is the uniballs in the control arms. You can try greasing them and if that doesn’t help they will need replacing. Shouldn’t be too expensive.

You can try this lube.

Tri-Flow Heim & Uniball Lube | Camburg Engineering


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Yea I’m gonna start there and then see what happens. Even when I hit a tiny bump it feels like I just hit a massive pothole, wasn’t sure if something is wrong or is that’s just how it is. Thanks for the response, appreciate it!
 
Hey sorry if posting this in the wrong place, just registered and not sure how to use this site lol. I just got this 98 4runner and am curious how to tell if these shocks/ arm bars are shot. Yes I tried looking it up b4 posting. They’re not only make extremely loud creaking sound but every time I hit even a tiny bump it’s seems very stiff. The car came with these, the previous owner said there 2-3 years old How can I tell if these are still good? Is that just how they are?

That’s actually pretty much top of the line gear. King suspension is very reliable. I’m guessing the sound of your nose is the uniballs in the control arms. You can try greasing them and if that doesn’t help they will need replacing. Shouldn’t be too expensive.

You can try this lube.

Tri-Flow Heim & Uniball Lube | Camburg Engineering


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea I’m gonna start there and then see what happens. Even when I hit a tiny bump it feels like I just hit a massive pothole, wasn’t sure if something is wrong or is that’s just how it is. Thanks for the response, appreciate it!

As mentioned King suspension is top of the line...so don't replace them if at all possible because they can be rebuilt, King offers a rebuilt service or you can rebuild them yourself, so if they are worn out I would send them in to be rebuilt or DIY.

I would also suggest you contact King and explain to them all of the issues you are experiencing and seek their advice on what to do and where to go from there.

If you do decide to go back to a more stock setup you should be able to sell the King setup most likely for more than a stock setup would cost even if they need to be rebuilt. IMHO

A link to their website.

King Off-Road Racing Shocks: Coil Overs, Bypass, OEM, UTV, Air Shocks, Bump Stops, Springs, Replacment Parts, Tools, Springs << King Off-Road Racing Shocks : kingshocks.com
 
Lthanks for the info! I ordered some of that tri flow super lube and sprayed with wd40 in meantime. They’re still pretty noisy but will report back after using the tri flow. That’s a good idea I’ll contact king and see if they have any insight. Eventually I’ll probably go back to a more stock suspension but for now gonna leave it alone.
 

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