Ultra Gauge EM install

emelianenkov

New member
Hey all, I've been doing a lot of gauge swaps recently and every time I test the customer's gauges, I have to take mine out, resetting my MPG average and trip computer, etc.

I saw someone selling one of these in the classifieds and it made me want to get one.

I decided to install mine on the bottom left corner of my windshield.
aefea31f-5b5c-a8cd.jpg

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This mounting location gives me convenient access to the three buttons (menu, up, down) on the back. One thing I don't like about the included mount is its MASSIVE suction cup. If I have more free time, I'm going to mount the gauge on top of my steering column, below my speedometer.

The ultra gauge can display 64 different gauges for our 4th gens.

My thoughts so far:
-The ultra gauge displays the majority of the information I want.
-For the price, I think it's a useful tool.
-The screen has an ambient light sensor and gives a very crisp and easy to read display, allowing you to mix and match up to 8 gauges per page.
-7 pages of gauge layouts, all fully customizable.

It's a decent product.
 
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As far as testing the customer gauges, why not find a 12vdc power supply so you don't have to take your dash apart 7897890 times.

I might know a guy that has one if you are interested.
 
I need to get a lower profile mount. The stock one is massive.

Have you noticed that your mph is roughly 2mph slower than you're actually going?

One of the reasons i got it was for that. But since i have an X1 it throws off the speedo to trick the ecu to think its going slower than what it really is. It removes the speed limiter.
 
As far as testing the customer gauges, why not find a 12vdc power supply so you don't have to take your dash apart 7897890 times.

I might know a guy that has one if you are interested.

I've been using a multimeter but some of the LEDs, like the DAC for example, only light up when the button is pressed in the truck. I've tried the AA battery trick and the multimeter, some of the LEDs will only power up in the truck. It's peculiar...

What would the 12v DC power supply allow me to do? Does it simulate connecting the gauges into the truck? I can't seem to locate the two 'power pins' out of the multitude of pins that the gauges plug into.
aefc2d80-7c37-5e04.jpg
 
Hey u do those gauge swaps or is it some one else? How does that work u send in yours??

Well go down the highway n see how fast u can get it up to.....So far ive gotten mine close to 140 n I'm not b.s.'n.
 
I've been using a multimeter but some of the LEDs, like the DAC for example, only light up when the button is pressed in the truck. I've tried the AA battery trick and the multimeter, some of the LEDs will only power up in the truck. It's peculiar...

What would the 12v DC power supply allow me to do? Does it simulate connecting the gauges into the truck? I can't seem to locate the two 'power pins' out of the multitude of pins that the gauges plug into.

Gotta have a wire diagram in order to solidly answer your questions.

The short answer is to isolate each pin, figure out the function the pin provides (power or a signal input/ output) and record the measured voltage for each one. Those white connectors are numbered, this I'm sure of.


The long answer is:

I don't have any knowledge of how these gauges get power as well as how they send/ recieve signals but I'm willing to bet there is one (possibly 2) main input(s) of 12vdc to power the board(s) with the rest of the connections being a low voltage signal.

I'd have to see the wire diagram first but if you can find me a drawing that includes those connectors I can talk you through a procedure on how to isolate each circuit in order to find their function. Everything depends on how much information Toyota put within those drawings.

Without the wire diagram the alternative I'd be considering is to figure out each pin on the connector side one by one by either cycling your IGN key or pressing buttons such as DAC, Diff Lock, etc however that would still leave the "low fuel" to figure out.

Just know that, when you are figuring out each pin, if you are getting voltage on any of the pins on those white connectors, the voltage you are seeing is nothing more than power for the cluster or a signal.

It may sound complex as I type it here but the circuit is really a very simple one and the procedure is just as simple. The worst part is figuring out the pins if you don't have the wire diagram.

Only reason I'm suggesting this is so you don't have to take apart your own vehicle and use it as a test bed every time you test a cluster.


I own the power supply mentioned in my previous post. It uses 120vac and has adjustable pots for differing voltage outputs. You are welcome to it if this is a project you are willing to take up.
 
Hey u do those gauge swaps or is it some one else? How does that work u send in yours??

Well go down the highway n see how fast u can get it up to.....So far ive gotten mine close to 140 n I'm not b.s.'n.

I do gauge swaps myself. Click the link in my profile :bigok:

This is as fast as I've gone
ad4cf1a6-1423-6915.jpg

I still had 500 rpm to go before redline, but my brush guard was shaking a lot (before I modified it two nights ago). Might try again. Might choose to be smart, but I'm 18... That's obviously not happening.
 
Gotta have a wire diagram in order to solidly answer your questions.

The short answer is to isolate each pin, figure out the function the pin provides (power or a signal input/ output) and record the measured voltage for each one. Those white connectors are numbered, this I'm sure of.


The long answer is:

I don't have any knowledge of how these gauges get power as well as how they send/ recieve signals but I'm willing to bet there is one (possibly 2) main input(s) of 12vdc to power the board(s) with the rest of the connections being a low voltage signal.

I'd have to see the wire diagram first but if you can find me a drawing that includes those connectors I can talk you through a procedure on how to isolate each circuit in order to find their function. Everything depends on how much information Toyota put within those drawings.

Without the wire diagram the alternative I'd be considering is to figure out each pin on the connector side one by one by either cycling your IGN key or pressing buttons such as DAC, Diff Lock, etc however that would still leave the "low fuel" to figure out.

Just know that, when you are figuring out each pin, if you are getting voltage on any of the pins on those white connectors, the voltage you are seeing is nothing more than power for the cluster or a signal.

It may sound complex as I type it here but the circuit is really a very simple one and the procedure is just as simple. The worst part is figuring out the pins if you don't have the wire diagram.

Only reason I'm suggesting this is so you don't have to take apart your own vehicle and use it as a test bed every time you test a cluster.


I own the power supply mentioned in my previous post. It uses 120vac and has adjustable pots for differing voltage outputs. You are welcome to it if this is a project you are willing to take up.

Thanks for the info man!

I'd be interested in taking up the 120vac project. Hopefully I can find a wiring diagram or have a lot of free time. I'll PM you!

Alex
 

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