undercoating rustproofing

sweaty

Member
I will get a new 19 TRD soon and am doing research about how to do rustproofing. I've seen different methods. What I look for is a cheap and effective DIY method. So far, people have done:
1. some sort of rubber based spray such as a 3M product. Not good because the rubber layer actually traps moisture
2. Fluid Film or some other similar product sprayed to the frame inside and out, and the rock panels etc.
3. A mixture of chainsaw bar oil or similar, also sprayed on there.
4. used motor oil, or automatic transmission oil, sprayed on the metal parts.

Some people even use a pump jug lawn sprayer filled with motor oil and spray it everywhere.

Has anyone done this sort of thing? Is it DIY friendly? What is the result?
 
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Fluid film is the correct answer :rockon:

Seeing that you are in Iowa, I can imaging how much salt they dump onto the road!

So is this something that you can DIY, or have to hire out? How often do you re-apply Fluid Film? Once a year, or twice a year? Thanks for the reply!
 
I’m in Nebraska and use Fluid Film in the fall before the bad weather starts. Then, in the spring, clean the undercarriage very good and use Fluid Film again. It really works great!


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I’m in Nebraska and use Fluid Film in the fall before the bad weather starts. Then, in the spring, clean the undercarriage very good and use Fluid Film again. It really works great!


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Thanks for the response!

One thing that I heard from online is that Fluid Film washes away easily. That is why some people use a mix of chainsaw bar oil and wax, or some formula, instead of Fluid Film. So during winter, do you not power wash under your truck so you don't blast away the Fluid Film or you wait until it is spring and do a thorough power wash?
 
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Get it proffesionally applied once or twice a year and youll be rust free. Ive driven 500+ miles over 70 mph in a downpour and it didnt come close to washing off. During winter give underside a light spray of water to wash sway salt. Honestly, if Fluid Film was applied correctly you dont even have to spray salt off.
 
Thanks for the response!



One thing that I heard from online is that Fluid Film washes away easily. That is why some people use a mix of chainsaw bar oil and wax, or some formula, instead of Fluid Film. So during winter, do you not power wash under your truck so you don't blast away the Fluid Film or you wait until it is spring and do a thorough power wash?



My experience with Fluid Film is that it’s lanoline based and has a waxy feel about it, which makes it difficult for water to wash off. During the winter, I go to the car wash and spray the undercarriage with water to get the road salt or whatever off of it. I do this after each storm when the roads dry up. In the warmer months I wash it at home, but don’t want to drag the hoses out in the cold! The Fluid Film seems to stay on pretty good. The water beads up on it. It has never completely dried up on me before. I do spray pretty generously. Even though the wet look goes away, the Fluid Film is still on. You can just take a finger and wipe it and see that it is still on. Someone may know better, but I think I read somewhere that it actually penetrates some of the metal. I could be wrong though.


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How well does Fluid Film stick if you go through a car wash once or twice a week? I bought a gallon of it and sprayed it on my wife's Infiniti and it was mostly gone in 4-6 weeks.

On my old Range Rovers, I used to mix turpentine, chainsaw bar oil, and 4 or 5 wax toilet seals in a metal paint can. The turpentine melted the wax, and the chainsaw oil is sticky enough that it's not going to run off. After it dries the frame has a nice coat of oil and wax that keeps salt and mositure off the metal. This lasted me through entire winters and I would spray more on around the end of summer.

I see all the love for Fluid Film here but either I put it on wrong or I am asking it to do too much.
 
How well does Fluid Film stick if you go through a car wash once or twice a week? I bought a gallon of it and sprayed it on my wife's Infiniti and it was mostly gone in 4-6 weeks.
...

Exactly what I read from youtube or some other sources, that Fluid Film washes off after a few car washes. Most of the auto car wash places have powerful blast underside. Also, your home-grown formula of chainsaw oil and whatnot is also regularly mentioned by a lot of guys.
 
I also read that some guy uses peanut oil and a garden sprayer and just spray it everywhere. I guess any oil is better than nothing!
 
Exactly what I read from youtube or some other sources, that Fluid Film washes off after a few car washes. Most of the auto car wash places have powerful blast underside. Also, your home-grown formula of chainsaw oil and whatnot is also regularly mentioned by a lot of guys.

Ok, so it wasn't me. I have a monthly car wash package and run it through several times a week (depending on the weather) during the winter and maybe once a week during the summer. I guess if you're not getting car washes often Fluid Film will last longer.

The home-brew undercoating I make is very similar to Waxoyl that is big in British car circles. Definitely has to be applied in warm weather as it's fairly thick but that means the cold weather hardens it.

I had my 4Runner undercoated at the dealership when I bought it so I'm not going to worry about undercoating for a few more years (if I even still have it then) but I think if you keep Fluid Film on it's better than nothing.
 
I got a beater for $700 I put over 50k miles on it doing simple DIY maintenance its held up great and right now its covered in salt and gravel dust while my 4runner isnt.

Some people are against a beater bomber but I prefer it

The body of new vehicles isn't going to rust it's the underpinnings, electronics and bearings that I'm worried about. The 4runner has foam for whatever reason in the grille area that holds whatever, salt water!
 
Linseed oil works to protect metal and wood..this will stick very good and does seal metal from the salt . can be easy to spray on by thinning it with a low odor mineral spirits solvent . safe on rubber parts also .
when I clean up my work this solvent does a good job and safe.

use a pump sprayer .. put on 2 coats after a day or so .

cheap and effective $12 a gallon home depot.
If I see any rust on the frame etc I use rustoleum performance paint .. black.. works great did a test on a rusted trash metal barrel..

my 2016 runner looking good .. just did this in nov before the crap flys..every year..
 
Fluid film is the way too go but do be aware it will wash off fairly easily. It may take multiple applications through the winter. The most important thing is to wash it out. If you can get it on a lift to wash, the better. Make certain you drop the spare tire and get up in that area. I have seen some really nasty tub and frame rust in that area because flushing cant get up in there with the tire.
 
Just take it to a car wash and wash the underneath once a week.
Nothing beats continual and frequent rinse when it comes to road salt.
You will be amazed at what rinse would do to prevent rust if you plan to keep the truck down the road. Plus ,it’s a good leg workout. :)


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I like fluid film, because there's a lot to be said for a product that both extends protection over an already durable vehicle, but soothes our OCD in a way that's environmentally friendly.

Half of these other products do nothing, and are really freaking toxic for the environment.
 
The main reason Fluid Film is ideal is the exact same reason some folks here are against it. It doesn't create a hard seal, its Fluid, soaks into the metal, gets into every small space under the frame, inside the body, inside doors, inside engine bay, even on hinges and latches. Hard seals eventually form cracks and water gets into those spaces between the seal and the metal and rust starts underneith. Think about it, why would you want a waxy coating water can get trapped under and rust?! So, literally soak your 4Runner in Fluid Film and it will keep on protecting in those hard to reach places, often where rust starts. And it doesn't wash off those places either because there is no frequent contract with water. For the places that there is contact with water, like I stated before just generously reapply once or twice a year and occasionally lightly hand spray wash the bottom. Very easy...
 
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Eastwood Tools makes several different types of anti rust products and applicators, I’ve used there products on several trucks(inside panels) applies easily with appropriate gun.
 
So I have rust inside my frame, it's flaking, but I've been throughout the whole frame with a ball peen hammer and haven't found any soft spots yet. What can I use to spray inside the frame to Stop or slow down the rust? I'm thinking motor or bar chain oil because I can't prep the inside at all other than with high pressure air or water. Any advice is appreciated.
 

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