UPDATE (FINISHED!): What step gave you the hardest time when installing new struts/leveling

[Rogue-Runner]

UPDATE (FINISHED!): What step gave you the hardest time when installing new struts/leveling

My first attempt to install new struts and level my rig was an unmitigated failure. My dad (who is very handy) and I got stuck when it came time to remove the 3 nuts on top of the strut mount. We couldn't get either of the front 2 loose so we didn't even try doing the one in the back. I got some pb blaster today and a 14mm ratcheting wrench (6 point). We're going to soak every nut in every step for a few days then tackle it again next weekend. Otherwise I'm busting out the Dremel. I'm also replacing the rear shocks + 1.5" rear spacer.

So... what's the next step that's going to prevent me from doing this install? Which parts did all of you find most difficult?

EDIT: Although getting stuck was a pain and a major disappoinment, I'm pretty close with my dad, but I haven't had that much fun with him in years. Looking forward to do it again.


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[PK930]

Soak everything in PB. Everything.

 

[Charlievee]

Cheater bar/ wrench didn't help?

 

[Rogue-Runner]

Cheater bar/ wrench didn't help?

I didn't have a cheater bar handy, and we didn't try the 2-wrench trick because it wouldn't work on the back one anyways. Hoping the blaster saves me this weekend.


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[chester4Run]

UCA bolt was my nemesis. Doing it alone was just too much. I couldn’t keep everything aligned below while getting that bolt in place from above. I ended up grabbing some help before I lost my mind a burned the whole place down...

It wasn’t bad overall. Some bendy ratcheting wrenches penetrating oil should help a lot with those top bolts. Take your time and have fun with your dad!

 

[mcat707]

The garbage spring compressor tool that I got on Amazon was my issue. It had a hard time seating on the coil spring correctly. I ended up taking the struts to a near by shop to install the spacer and top hat as I didn’t have time to order another compressor tool as I needed my rig back on the road.

Get a good quality spring compressor tool.

 

[Charlievee]

I didn't have a cheater bar handy, and we didn't try the 2-wrench trick because it wouldn't work on the back one anyways. Hoping the blaster saves me this weekend.


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Could try pulling the strut/spring using the "no spring compressor" method for a bit more room for the top mount nuts.

 

[pDubs]

No spring compressor method is the way to go.

The hardest part for me was loosing the lower control arms after marking the cam bolts with paint pen, then getting them aligned up again.

 

[Rogue-Runner]

The garbage spring compressor tool that I got on Amazon was my issue. It had a hard time seating on the coil spring correctly. I ended up taking the struts to a near by shop to install the spacer and top hat as I didn’t have time to order another compressor tool as I needed my rig back on the road.

Get a good quality spring compressor tool.

Oh ya I decided that I didn't want to mess with that. Luckily I'm installing new struts so I was able to take them to my mechanic and ask him to install the preload portion of the front spacers.

 

[Mutant138]

Kdss if you have it. I strapped everything in place help loads. Not even an issue for me now tbh.

No spring compressor method is simple and easy. Tbh most of it’s pretty easy.

My harbor freight jack stands suck. Claws just don’t safely sit on the frame rails. Spent a lot of time just trying to get the truck to sit on them right. Resorted to two on one side and a wheel under the rails just incase. Think they got recalled so I should prob get on that and buy something better.

Watch some vids. Read some threads. Come up with a plan and take your time.

 

[dschupp]

I was able to get those top nuts by tapping the wrench with a hammer a few times. I used the loaner spring compressors from auto zone; not easy but was able to get it done. Having a breaker bar handy was helpful especially when it came time to crank down those springs

 

[Rogue-Runner]

No spring compressor method is the way to go.

The hardest part for me was loosing the lower control arms after marking the cam bolts with paint pen, then getting them aligned up again.

Sounds rough. When you align/torque the cam bolts, do you do so after the tires are back on the ground? I read in one jeep forum that you don't align/torque while still in the air, but I've read dozens of write-ups and no one else mentioned that, including instructions from manufacturer websites.

 

[Charlievee]

Sounds rough. When you align/torque the cam bolts, do you do so after the tires are back on the ground? I read in one jeep forum that you don't align/torque while still in the air, but I've read dozens of write-ups and no one else mentioned that, including instructions from manufacturer websites.

Just have to line up your marks, front and back. It will still need a good alignment, but this gets you close. Good time to pull the cam bolts and anti seize everything.

 

[Xtremluck]

I didn't have a cheater bar handy, and we didn't try the 2-wrench trick because it wouldn't work on the back one anyways. Hoping the blaster saves me this weekend.


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PB Blaster for sure but I would also use a mallet on the wrench while its attached to the bolt. Its worked for me in the past. You should have enough room to do that.

 

[sephv1]

I didn't have much trouble on the fronts...but the back was a PITA when it came to get thing the trac bar bolt back on. Had to use some ratcheting straps to get the axle to shift over like 3/8" inch so i could get the bolt back in.

 

[rocketnuts]

UCA bolt was my nemesis. Doing it alone was just too much. I couldn’t keep everything aligned below while getting that bolt in place from above.

Same issue. It seems straightforward enough, but you really need 2 people in 2 different places. Had my brother in law stop by and work the bolt from under the hood while I was underneath keeping everything aligned. Wiggling the UCA while the bolt was being pushed through seemed to make it go easier.

 

[Arnezie]

I didn’t loosen the cam bolts so it was pretty tough getting the new shock and longer spring in place by myself could use an extra set of hands.


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[PK930]

I can rip apart each side of my truck including removing the coilover and CV in less than 20 a side. You learn what order or what as you go over time.

I didn't have much trouble on the fronts...but the back was a PITA when it came to get thing the trac bar bolt back on. Had to use some ratcheting straps to get the axle to shift over like 3/8" inch so i could get the bolt back in.

You don’t need to actually remove it. Just loosen the bolt enough to have free play.

 

[Mutant138]

I didn't have much trouble on the fronts...but the back was a PITA when it came to get thing the trac bar bolt back on. Had to use some ratcheting straps to get the axle to shift over like 3/8" inch so i could get the bolt back in.

Back is the easiest part dude!

Maybe your truck wasn’t level. It was minimal effort getting that bolt back in both times I’ve done the rear. If it doesn’t line up you shove your jack under the pumpkin and pump the whole axle up till it lines up.

I can do the whole rear suspension with kdss in about a half hour + or -.

 

[MyanRagahis]

I got stuck when it came time to remove the 3 nuts on top of the strut mount. We couldn't get either of the front 2 loose so we didn't even try doing the one in the back.


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Like some others, I too used a hammer or mallet to hit the wrench to loosen it when I installed spacer at the time. The PB blaster should make easy work of it now hopefully.

Sounds rough. When you align/torque the cam bolts, do you do so after the tires are back on the ground? I read in one jeep forum that you don't align/torque while still in the air, but I've read dozens of write-ups and no one else mentioned that, including instructions from manufacturer websites.

Yes. Do this and torque your bolts while it's on its own weight. From what I've learned those bushings don't pivot in the LCA but rather they stretch. So torquing them down while fully drooped would stress them while the vehicle is on it's own weight. I'm almost certain I trashed my LCA bushings with my OEM lowers at the time because I torqued them all the time while it was in the air.

Maybe these are just tips. But for me, ripping my ABS sensor wire and not marking where my alignment tabs were before completely removing LCA bolts.

I'm not certain if you'd have to but I would remove the bolt that holds the ABS sensor wire at the upper control arm. Peace of mind so you don't rip it.

And not that you would need to remove the LCA bolts, but do mark them if you loosen them. In short, I set my alignment cams to neutral because I didn't mark them (too excited to remove everything and install my new LCAs) and didn't know how they were oriented. At the end of it, the middle of steering wheel was pointed at about the 10 o'clock position and that in combination with one hard lock turn, destroyed my clock spring inside the steering wheel.
The fix was more expensive than the LCAs I installed. It sucked.

I have an expensive live and learn experience. I don't like it.

Hope the install goes well and do enjoy the time with your Dad.