Upgrade ball joints?

[ellner357]

Well I'm gonna do my ball joints before I lift... or when I lift. They're still nice and tight but the boots are pulled up exposing them so I'm sure they'll wear nasty like.

I've seen reference to the Tacoma ball joints being used but can't find any actual info on what year to get and how big an improvement I'm looking at vs just using stock oem runner joints. I'm not going to do more then a 3 inch suspension lift. I'm also going to need to do a steering rack and tie rods. So basically a front end rebuild. Ugh. More money in maintenance means less in mods lol!

 

[downpour11]

Just grab OEM LBJ's for the 4runner. They are the best. If you did the tacoma LBJ's+TRE's you'll lose a little turning radius.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

3" lift is a ton on these IFS front ends. I thing the Tacoma LBJ's mad OTRE's are a worthwhile upgrade. I've done them on two of my 4Runners, they're quite a bit "beefier" for lack of a better term than the 4Runner pieces. I bought them for an '04 Tacoma Pre-Runner. Yes I know a pre-runner is 2WD but that's the parts I bout and they work great on my 4WD 4Runner. As Downpour mentioned though, you will loose a little turning radius.

 

[ellner357]

Hmmm that's a tough call for me. I really don't want to give up any turning radius... But I do want a tough lbj that I can throw in and not worry about...

 

[Gerdo]

Just grab OEM LBJ's for the 4runner. They are the best. If you did the tacoma LBJ's+TRE's you'll lose a little turning radius.

Stay OEM, Stay 4runner. Most get ~200,000 on the originals. Even lifted, they do great.

Of my first 190k, 100k was lifted (2"-3"). I have 50k on ~4" of lift without issues.

I personally am not going to give up turning radius.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

The turning radius decrease is marginal at best. I haven't ever found it to be an issue.

 

[downpour11]

Hmmm that's a tough call for me. I really don't want to give up any turning radius... But I do want a tough lbj that I can throw in and not worry about...

Stay OEM, Stay 4runner. Most get ~200,000 on the originals. Even lifted, they do great.

Of my first 190k, 100k was lifted (2"-3"). I have 50k on ~4" of lift without issues.

I personally am not going to give up turning radius.

The 4runner OEM LBJ's are really tough. You'll be fine with those. My LBJ's are still doing awesome with my lift. As Gerdo said, they will last a lonnng time and you don't have to sacrifice any turning radius.

But honestly, you can't go wrong with either LBJ, they are both good.

Upper ball joints are a different story with a lift, especially if you wheel it. That's where the uniball UCA's come in handy.

 

[Brian757]

I purchased Moog LBJ and UBJ's and installed them myself.
I have not noticed the slightest steering limitations. OEM is great but quality wise, the Moogs aren't any different. I have made comparisons and structurally, the Moogs are no different, not even in size. They are identical by size and are made by 555, or Federal Mogul.

 

[steezemcqueen]

I purchased Moog LBJ and UBJ's and installed them myself.
I have not noticed the slightest steering limitations. OEM is great but quality wise, the Moogs aren't any different. I have made comparisons and structurally, the Moogs are no different, not even in size. They are identical by size and are made by 555, or Federal Mogul.

Moog's are nowhere close to OEM quality. After about 5k miles, the boots on the Moogs had torn and they looked worse than the OEM ones with 190k on them.

OEM or nothing.

 

[Brian757]

Moog's are nowhere close to OEM quality. After about 5k miles, the boots on the Moogs had torn and they looked worse than the OEM ones with 190k on them.

OEM or nothing.

That would totally have to be an individual product defect. I am telling you, there are no structural limitations from Moog to OEM. There are many rigs on here running Moogs that wheel and have lifts and haven't had a single issue.
Just one bad experience doesn't mean a product is shit.

Hell, when you purchase replacement parts from some dealerships, you get Moog parts with OEM Part #'s!

 

[steezemcqueen]

That would totally have to be an individual product defect. I am telling you, there are no structural limitations from Moog to OEM. There are many rigs on here running Moogs that wheel and have lifts and haven't had a single issue.
Just one bad experience doesn't mean a product is shit.

Hell, when you purchase replacement parts from some dealerships, you get Moog parts with OEM Part #'s!

I personally know 4 other people that used Moog's on their 3rd gen with the same issues.

Moog used to be quality stuff but lately they have lost it.

 

[nobb]

Dont the MOOG joints have greasable zerks? That would be a huge selling feature, IMO...especially if you mud/cross water. OEM ones don't have that.

A failed boot only means that the boot quality sucks, not necessarily that the internals are bad quality. Boots can easily be replaced. One thing I noticed is that with the OEM LBJ boots, only the lower part of the boot is clamped and the top is relatively open for water/debris to get in.

 

[Brian757]

I personally know 4 other people that used Moog's on their 3rd gen with the same issues.

Moog used to be quality stuff but lately they have lost it.

Well I cannot speak of personal experience because I have maybe 2,000 miles on them. I also put Permatex grease on all rubber once I have installed it. 5K miles seems wayy too early for boot failure. But if the mechanical operation of the ball joint seems on point, the part is doing its job. I just dont get why the boots are tearing prematurely.

I do know that Federal Mogul are OEM ball joint manufacturers so most of these products are just being boxed differently and sold by the dealers.

Dont the MOOG joints have greasable zerks? That would be a huge selling feature, IMO...especially if you mud/cross water. OEM ones don't have that.

A failed boot only means that the boot quality sucks, not necessarily that the internals are bad quality. Boots can easily be replaced. One thing I noticed is that with the OEM LBJ boots, only the lower part of the boot is clamped and the top is relatively open for water/debris to get in.

Yes. The Moog Problem Solvers are awesome! Some of their parts are a little tough, like they over-engineered, but where it is permitable, it is nice to have.
These are the sway bar end links I installed a week ago. The zerk fittings are nice!

 

[steezemcqueen]

Dont the MOOG joints have greasable zerks? That would be a huge selling feature, IMO...especially if you mud/cross water. OEM ones don't have that.

A failed boot only means that the boot quality sucks, not necessarily that the internals are bad quality. Boots can easily be replaced. One thing I noticed is that with the OEM LBJ boots, only the lower part of the boot is clamped and the top is relatively open for water/debris to get in.

They do not have grease zerks

I agree that the bad quality of the boot doesn't necessarily mean the the joint is low quality. However if the boot tears prematurely, that will allow dirt, water, sand, laser beams, Miley Cyrus music, etc. to get into the joint and wear it out much sooner. Or in a matter of seconds if Miley Cyrus gets in there.

 

[Brian757]

They do not have grease zerks

I agree that the bad quality of the boot doesn't necessarily mean the the joint is low quality. However if the boot tears prematurely, that will allow dirt, water, sand, laser beams, Miley Cyrus music, etc. to get into the joint and wear it out much sooner. Or in a matter of seconds if Miley Cyrus gets in there.

Haha, true. So boot failure could lead to premature ball joint failure. I guess I can see that as possible. I will have to monitor my boots.

 

[nobb]

This is controversial, but I wonder if anyone has attempted to drill a hole in the OEM ball joints and add a grease zirk fitting? I think that would increase the lifespan dramatically.

The OEM LBJs use a thick japanese NOK brand boot, which appears to be pretty high quality. My only concern is the fact that it is somewhat open on one end, allowing water/debris in over time. Adding a grease zerk and periodically pushing out the old grease with new grease would alleviate that concern.

 

[ellner357]

Hmmm well it looks like I'm leaning towards oem. Though my boot seems to be where I'm failing. Maybe I'll look at just replacing the boot before the joint goes because they're still solid with no wiggle... Maybe these have been done before with moog lol

 

[Brian757]

Hmmm well it looks like I'm leaning towards oem. Though my boot seems to be where I'm failing. Maybe I'll look at just replacing the boot before the joint goes because they're still solid with no wiggle... Maybe these have been done before with moog lol

Your better off just changing the entire ball joint out if your going to change the boot. If your doing it yourself, then you'll want to just put a new ball joint in. It takes a bit to do and having a new BJ will be much better than covering up an upcoming repair, ya know?

And I will have to take a photo of my boots with roughly 2K miles on them.
Most people on here say to go with Napa Chassis or 555 if your going to do aftermarket or just do OEM but 555 brand is like $130 for each ball joint and an OEM is like $60-$80. Moogs are like $65-$80. It is truly tough, as most of these companies seem to be a giant circle. 555 is made by Federal Mogul and so is Moog.
The only difference from Moog and OEM are that some Moog parts are greasable and has zerk fittings whereas OEM does not and that Moog boots are weaker??

 

[downpour11]

Hmmm well it looks like I'm leaning towards oem. Though my boot seems to be where I'm failing. Maybe I'll look at just replacing the boot before the joint goes because they're still solid with no wiggle... Maybe these have been done before with moog lol

From the looks of your ball joints in the pic you posted I'd replace the entire ball joint lol

 

[JayRolla]

GO OEM, dont buy some cheap auto store crap or just boots, I kept putting mine off and look what happened to me. Now im spending a lot more money..