upgrading skids

[DeltaWhiskey]

I have decided to upgrade the skid plates on my 4R. I am looking at RCI since they currently have a 15% discount and reasonable shipping. Initially I plan to order the full skid set (engine, trans,transfer case) and the A arm skids. I am stuck on choosing aluminum or steel. The steel clearly is stronger, but at a 25% weight disadvantage as well as potential rust makes the aluminum consideration worthy. My off road trips will be enough to justify these, but I am looking to see what others RCI owners chose and why. As far as intended use, no rock crawling or tackling major ledges.

 

[Thrasher_S]

I think it depends on your use. For me, aluminum for sure, but I'm worried about rust and I'm mostly "bashing" snow and sticks.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I have decided to upgrade the skid plates on my 4R. I am looking at RCI since they currently have a 15% discount and reasonable shipping. Initially I plan to order the full skid set (engine, trans,transfer case) and the A arm skids. I am stuck on choosing aluminum or steel. The steel clearly is stronger, but at a 25% weight disadvantage as well as potential rust makes the aluminum consideration worthy. My off road trips will be enough to justify these, but I am looking to see what others RCI owners chose and why. As far as intended use, no rock crawling or tackling major ledges.

I live in KS, so take it from me, don't worry about rust on steel skid plates. I've painted mine once in 3 years, with lots of scrapes on them, and just have very light surface rust on the scrapes. Remember they're 3/16 steel so it'll take years and years and years for them to actually rust through if you don't respray them every 5 years.

I'm still not convinced you should actually buy skids if you don't rock crawl at all. Maybe it depends on your lift amount and tire size but dropping a grand on skids, a t-case is what, $300 to replace?

Keep in mind you're adding weight to the lowest part of the vehicle so you'll actually be lowering the center of gravity. It's the best place to put the weight compared to something like a roof rack.

I guess my vote is for just doing the transmission skid from steel. Buying something else with the savings.

 

[comtn4x4]

I have decided to upgrade the skid plates on my 4R. I am looking at RCI since they currently have a 15% discount and reasonable shipping. Initially I plan to order the full skid set (engine, trans,transfer case) and the A arm skids. I am stuck on choosing aluminum or steel. The steel clearly is stronger, but at a 25% weight disadvantage as well as potential rust makes the aluminum consideration worthy. My off road trips will be enough to justify these, but I am looking to see what others RCI owners chose and why. As far as intended use, no rock crawling or tackling major ledges.

If you're not scraping your belly much I'd go with aluminum. No need for extra strength if you're only worried about incidental hits. You'll appreciate the weight savings
And skip the A-arm skids. They're pointless overkill

 

[mteolus]

I went with aluminum, but that was after I got a lift so I scrape a lot less now than stock (stock height is not 9.6 as Toyota claims by the way). If you are not going to be doing a lot of rock crawling, aluminum is the way to go. I recommend still getting the front skid powdercoated (or you can just paint the front part with a rattle can), otherwise the aluminum will start to look tacky after a while. The rest I wouldn't worry about powdercoating. I didn't bother with the lower control arm skids, I didn't think that would be an issue even if they were hit.

Otherwise, just make sure you put anti-seize on all the bolts when installing.

 

[jp.vegas]

I'm still not convinced you should actually buy skids if you don't rock crawl at all. Maybe it depends on your lift amount and tire size but dropping a grand on skids, a t-case is what, $300 to replace?

I'd rather have the cheap insurance than risk needing to be rescued from the middle of some desert somewhere with a busted t-case.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I'd rather have the cheap insurance than risk needing to be rescued from the middle of some desert somewhere with a busted t-case.

A buddy I've wheeled with has an FJ without aftermarket skids. He's taken it everywhere I've gone, and everywhere an IFS FJ could go. The only time he hurt his T-case was from sending too much torque through it, cracking it near the input shaft, and even then he JB-welded it and drove it 800 miles home. If you managed to break a t-case in the middle of a desert without doing any tough obstacles you are obviously doing something very wrong. BTW my buddy paid $100 for his new t-case.

I just don't see the use-case for aluminum skids. You either use your skids or you don't. 1/8" steel is a much better and cheaper option than aluminum.

 

[jp.vegas]

A buddy I've wheeled with has an FJ without aftermarket skids. He's taken it everywhere I've gone, and everywhere an IFS FJ could go. The only time he hurt his T-case was from sending too much torque through it, cracking it near the input shaft, and even then he JB-welded it and drove it 800 miles home. If you managed to break a t-case in the middle of a desert without doing any tough obstacles you are obviously doing something very wrong. BTW my buddy paid $100 for his new t-case.

Shit happens, simple as that. My back yard is Death Valley and the Mojave desert. Wheeling here is an exercise in surviving the shit that does happen and preparedness is a thing. That road you came in on a week ago could be gone today, washed out from some flash flood or what have you. Skids are cheap insurance and I've always gone with aluminum because I'm not dragging my truck over rocks on purpose but if I have/need to, then I won't sweat it.

 

[DeltaWhiskey]

If you're not scraping your belly much I'd go with aluminum. No need for extra strength if you're only worried about incidental hits. You'll appreciate the weight savings

And skip the A-arm skids. They're pointless overkill

I guess I don't see the overkill part, these should help with possible cv boot punctures shouldn't they?

 

[safdSA]

I went with their aluminum for weight savings.

 

[DeltaWhiskey]

I live in KS, so take it from me, don't worry about rust on steel skid plates. I've painted mine once in 3 years, with lots of scrapes on them, and just have very light surface rust on the scrapes. Remember they're 3/16 steel so it'll take years and years and years for them to actually rust through if you don't respray them every 5 years.

I'm still not convinced you should actually buy skids if you don't rock crawl at all. Maybe it depends on your lift amount and tire size but dropping a grand on skids, a t-case is what, $300 to replace?

Keep in mind you're adding weight to the lowest part of the vehicle so you'll actually be lowering the center of gravity. It's the best place to put the weight compared to something like a roof rack.

I guess my vote is for just doing the transmission skid from steel. Buying something else with the savings.

Good info. it seems to me that too much protection is better than too little. The aluminum set weighs 70lbs, the steel 120lbs. The difference isn't that significant in the general scheme of things.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Shit happens, simple as that. My back yard is Death Valley and the Mojave desert. Wheeling here is an exercise in surviving the shit that does happen and preparedness is a thing. That road you came in on a week ago could be gone today, washed out from some flash flood or what have you. Skids are cheap insurance and I've always gone with aluminum because I'm not dragging my truck over rocks on purpose but if I have/need to, then I won't sweat it.

I've literally been trapped by a flash flood before with a group of Toyotas. We waited 30 minutes and drove through the water once it died down. Didn't see any rocks that were moved

Buy whatever makes you sweat less, I just don't see how 1/8" steel has any disadvantage to aluminum.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Good info. it seems to me that too much protection is better than too little. The aluminum set weighs 70lbs, the steel 120lbs. The difference isn't that significant in the general scheme of things.

If you're like me, you'll eventually want bigger tires, more lift, more capability. Steel will be good to have for the long term.

 

[SpeedyKevin]

I personally use an aluminum front skid and steel transmission and tcase (+ Diff skid). Main reason I went steel for the trans/tcase was I like to rock crawl and was worried about slipping off rocks. Can control the front pretty well but not the middle lol.

Been driving all over Death Valley (not particularly difficult terrain) and haven't felt the need yet for having All Steel vs Aluminum yet. Will probably replace the front skid with steel if I land on it one more time lol.

 

[patkelly4370]

One may not be rock crawling, but objects can still be thrown up into the undercarriage. Surprisingly large and hard objects.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[2112 R]

If you already have tires get the skids ... and some sliders.

I've got the full RCI aluminium skid plate set including gas tank.
The only piece I'm missing is the diff and that was because they didn't have the KDSS version when the group buy was on.

I've beat the hell out of them, come down hard on rocks, scraped them all up, dented the gas tank one from a misplaced rear tire on a rock (tire slid off and the gas tank skid took the full weight of the vehicle).

Highly recommend them. If the aluminum ones are this good I can guarantee the steel ones must be insane.

Went with aluminium due to weight and my 4r is my DD.

Super easy to install in a single afternoon. It can be done solo, but much easier and faster with a buddy and some beer.

 

[Drobs]

Unless all your off roading consists of is beach driving, expect there to be rocks.

 

[blackened_offroad]

i dented the shit out of my fuel tank skid this weekend in moab. hit all of the other ones too. I was doing some decent steps, around 6.5/10 level difficulty. I plan on going to Moab a few times this year, at least. might have to upgrade to some more substantial steel ones.

 

[SpeedyKevin]

If you already have tires get the skids ... and some sliders.

I've got the full RCI aluminium skid plate set including gas tank.
The only piece I'm missing is the diff and that was because they didn't have the KDSS version when the group buy was on.

I've beat the hell out of them, come down hard on rocks, scraped them all up, dented the gas tank one from a misplaced rear tire on a rock (tire slid off and the gas tank skid took the full weight of the vehicle).

Highly recommend them. If the aluminum ones are this good I can guarantee the steel ones must be insane.

Went with aluminium due to weight and my 4r is my DD.

Super easy to install in a single afternoon. It can be done solo, but much easier and faster with a buddy and some beer.

Out of all the skids, the Diff one was the most PITA to install for me lol. Kept dropping the bolt into the skid. Had to remove the skid to get it back lol. If you decide to get the diff skid, use tape to hold the bolts in place when you're tightening them!

 

[comtn4x4]

I guess I don't see the overkill part, these should help with possible cv boot punctures shouldn't they?

I've never heard of anyone puncturing a CV boot by an object going through the A arm. The A arms are not a weak point in my opinion, they're plenty tough and unless you are rock crawling you're not likely to do anything to them. I'd spend that money on ABS guards. I've damaged the ABS sensors twice but never done any damage to my A-arms.
Rear link guards are a good investment too