URD making a Supercharger kit for V8 4Runners!!

Oh that's not bad. I'm all custom now, but I had thought about adapting the V6 one several times.
Would love to hear what tricks gadget has with the supercharger and the computer system! Sooooooo want one!

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

Its about even with the back side of the skid, possibly a 1/2 lower or so, I think its a good mod overall so far.
 
Why did you wrap it?

I had originally thought it would be a good bit closer to the case and underside of the truck. More heat out of the exhaust the better.. makes it a bit more efficient (enough to measure? who knows :P). I did see 20mpg up about 1.5 (using a 6% correction for the 33 inch tires) on my first 100 mile+ trip after I installed it.
 
i second this, the 4.7 makes a respectable amount of power stock, superchargers are great and all but i would rather my truck be stock to keep the Toyota reliability. if you just got big tires and want some umph back for towing and dunes just regear:rockon:

Oh absolutely, I dont disagree. However, If I can get away with lower RPM on long hauls with a 4200# (dry) travel trailer along with the UCON safety features I think it will be just as reliable as long as the tuning and safety nets are on point. Tuning makes all the difference in the world. Heck I had a 2.0L 4g63 pushing 425hp all stock longblock no issues, last I heard that thing was still running 11s 8 years later.. I tuned that on a VAFC/WB02 (not very granular fuel tables on the VAFC by today's standards) running 10.8ish AF. Its all in the tune.
 
Yeah it hangs a smidge lower than I would like but I dont think it would hang unless you took a real bad line on some super rocky stuff. I think it could be tucked a little more without issues and still maintain the same flow. I dont beat on her when I am in the rocky stuff. Nice and easy =-P I mainly will be using it for some trails, beach and hauling a camper. The SC should be pretty helpful when we are going up some steep grades with the camper. The UCON flex should do pretty well with what Gadget and I have talked about. I like the safety features that it has. Reminds me of the some of the options Haltech has.

Did you reuse the factory hardware to install it? I'm having a hard time finding info on replacement bolts/springs/etc to install a Y pipe and catback on mine.
 
So how does their centrifugal set-up compare to the dual-scroll Magnuson used for their TRD stuff?

Also slightly off-topic anyone hear anything about Magnuson reviving the 4.7L unit?
 
Yes and no

Did you reuse the factory hardware to install it? I'm having a hard time finding info on replacement bolts/springs/etc to install a Y pipe and catback on mine.

I did reuse two of the factory flex/spring bolts that connect the exhaust end of the y pipe along with the factory donut gasket. URD provided me with the recessed gaskets and additional o2 bung plug (not using the wideband at the moment). I would plan on a making sure you have a hardened 3/8ths carbide drill bit and new 3/8ths stainless bolts, lock washers, and nuts (4 bolts, 8 lock washers, and 4 nuts) for the catalytic converter connections. I sprayed the factory bolts down with PB blaster, let them sit overnight and still broke one stud on each converter connection. I got all of the ones that I used at Lowes for ~5$.
 
So how does their centrifugal set-up compare to the dual-scroll Magnuson used for their TRD stuff?

Also slightly off-topic anyone hear anything about Magnuson reviving the 4.7L unit?

I like the centrifugal design using an intercooler for cooler IATs. They both have pros and cons but I think the lowend power argument between the designs is becoming less relevant. I would venture to guess that the 38-81 Rotex has a bigger power potential at higher boost. I think the 81 is rated at 650-660 (somewhere in there). The Rotex chargers perform really well on some of the smaller displacement engines as well (B&K Series Honda engines etc..). The efficiency with the Rotex blowers must be pretty high if these 1.8-2.4L engines using the 81 series are pushing modest boost and are close to 500hp.
 
I did reuse two of the factory flex/spring bolts that connect the exhaust end of the y pipe along with the factory donut gasket. URD provided me with the recessed gaskets and additional o2 bung plug (not using the wideband at the moment). I would plan on a making sure you have a hardened 3/8ths carbide drill bit and new 3/8ths stainless bolts, lock washers, and nuts (4 bolts, 8 lock washers, and 4 nuts) for the catalytic converter connections. I sprayed the factory bolts down with PB blaster, let them sit overnight and still broke one stud on each converter connection. I got all of the ones that I used at Lowes for ~5$.

I ordered new bolts/springs for the y pipe to cat back connection.

So if I'm interpreting what you are saying correctly, that factory manifold has studs on the flange that the two ends of the Y pipe slide onto and are attached with nuts? And you drilled out the studs and replaced with a bolt/lockwasher/nut connection?

If that's the case, do you happen to know what thread the factory studs were? if I can get away with not drilling them out, I'd still like to use new nuts on them. I'll have new bolts on hand just in case though.
 
For those customers of mine looking for that, let me know when the time comes. I'm working with URD to also carry some of their items. I'll help if I can.


If you are going to be carrying URD items could I put in a request that you attempt to negotiate a package deal in which the DT headers, y-pipe and rear O2 simulator could be bought for 1 price?

I'm sure they wouldn't budge too much but if bought together, but even a 10%savings over buying everything separately would convince a lot of people to pull the trigger.

Thanks!
 
If you are going to be carrying URD items could I put in a request that you attempt to negotiate a package deal in which the DT headers, y-pipe and rear O2 simulator could be bought for 1 price?

I'm sure they wouldn't budge too much but if bought together, but even a 10%savings over buying everything separately would convince a lot of people to pull the trigger.

Thanks!

Text me when you're ready.
 
I ordered new bolts/springs for the y pipe to cat back connection.

So if I'm interpreting what you are saying correctly, that factory manifold has studs on the flange that the two ends of the Y pipe slide onto and are attached with nuts? And you drilled out the studs and replaced with a bolt/lockwasher/nut connection?

If that's the case, do you happen to know what thread the factory studs were? if I can get away with not drilling them out, I'd still like to use new nuts on them. I'll have new bolts on hand just in case though.

Yep, where the cats connect to the Y-pipe, there are two bolts on each cat, when you back those nuts off there is a pretty good chance that you will ring the stud off and will need to drill out the broken stud. You may be completely fine but my manifolds were just replaced 10K miles ago under an emissions warranty and the bolts had already seized up. I am not sure what the part numbers are for the factory stuff, I just upgraded to some good stainless hardware. The bolts that I got were 3/8ths and about 1-3/4 to 2 inches long.
 
Yep, where the cats connect to the Y-pipe, there are two bolts on each cat, when you back those nuts off there is a pretty good chance that you will ring the stud off and will need to drill out the broken stud. You may be completely fine but my manifolds were just replaced 10K miles ago under an emissions warranty and the bolts had already seized up. I am not sure what the part numbers are for the factory stuff, I just upgraded to some good stainless hardware. The bolts that I got were 3/8ths and about 1-3/4 to 2 inches long.

Thanks for the answer. The fact that yours were seized after only 10K miles doesn't give me high hopes for my originals coming off at 85k miles haha. I read somewhere else that the original studs are M10x1.5 so I will pick up four nuts that fit those and four new 3/8ths bolts/washers/nuts in case they do break.
Just spitballing, I wonder if i could fit a dremel up in there and just cut the nuts so they crack off and keep the studs intact. Might be easier than drilling them out.
 
Thanks for the answer. The fact that yours were seized after only 10K miles doesn't give me high hopes for my originals coming off at 85k miles haha. I read somewhere else that the original studs are M10x1.5 so I will pick up four nuts that fit those and four new 3/8ths bolts/washers/nuts in case they do break.
Just spitballing, I wonder if i could fit a dremel up in there and just cut the nuts so they crack off and keep the studs intact. Might be easier than drilling them out.

Glad to help. I was really surprised that they had seized. I am guessing that the heat cycling causes it to happen pretty quickly. You might get lucky though. You should be able to fit a dremel in there. Spray them down and try backing them out with hand tools first. I was using my IR impact trying to make a quick job out of it heh. The dremel is a good idea.
 
URD supercharger

Hate to reopen a thread that's been quiet for a year, but this was the most relevant place to post....


Anyone have any feedback on the supercharger kits from URD in a Gen 4 T4R? Specifically, if a person wanted the fastest off-the-line Gen 4 on stock 17" wheels, and still maintain daily driver reliability, which truck do you start with?

Love my '05 V8 Sport 4x4....the only mod on the truck is the Gen 5 brake "upgrade" which I did to eliminate the stuck caliper syndrome....so far, so good. I was thinking of either boosting this truck, or maybe buy a newer V6 and boosting it....I will keep the '05 regardless. In 3.5 years and roughly 60k miles, an alternator is all that's ever been cause for an unscheduled repair!
 
Hate to reopen a thread that's been quiet for a year, but this was the most relevant place to post....


Anyone have any feedback on the supercharger kits from URD in a Gen 4 T4R? Specifically, if a person wanted the fastest off-the-line Gen 4 on stock 17" wheels, and still maintain daily driver reliability, which truck do you start with?

Love my '05 V8 Sport 4x4....the only mod on the truck is the Gen 5 brake "upgrade" which I did to eliminate the stuck caliper syndrome....so far, so good. I was thinking of either boosting this truck, or maybe buy a newer V6 and boosting it....I will keep the '05 regardless. In 3.5 years and roughly 60k miles, an alternator is all that's ever been cause for an unscheduled repair!

I think you have the truck already, an 05-09 V8, so just throw the supercharger on and you will smoke any 4Runner out there.

If you wanted the absolute fastest 4runner, get fiberglass fenders for a Tacoma and run one of their fiberglass hoods. Take the spare tire out and gear your diffs a touch lower. I think you might be able to supe up a 4.0 V6 more than the V8 engine if you wanted to throw more money towards it.
 
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Searching ebay with the usual search terms pulled up these dandies:
Too bad that turbo kit probably won't fit our trucks, doesn't look like they use the Doug Thorley headers for the 4th gens. Somebody could ask them if they could build the kit with the DT headers though?



 
Ok so I’ve been reading a bit here and there and is there or is there not options for super charging an 04 4th gen 4.7 V8? Seems like there are options for the later models of the runner 05+.... but I read mention that some options exist for an 04 but no direct link.... thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok so I’ve been reading a bit here and there and is there or is there not options for super charging an 04 4th gen 4.7 V8? Seems like there are options for the later models of the runner 05+.... but I read mention that some options exist for an 04 but no direct link.... thanks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There is the TRD supercharger but it's like trying to find a unicorn.
 

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