Using an Orbital Buffer

rdakhan

New member
Hi All,

I bought a Coleman Powermate 6" Orbital buffer yesterday but am a little confused about its usage. The instructions say, use one enclosed bonnett for polish and the other for waxing. I am still not very sure how to use this product and how much polish and wax I should use? Should I apply the polish and wax directly on the orbital buffer bonnet? How quickly do I need to run the buffer over the car and in what directions? About my car, its a 2005 Galactic Gray, I always park it in the garage at work and under a car port when at home. I live in Austin, TX, just an FYI for weather reasons. This will be it's first polish and wax treatment.

Yesterday, while using my California Duster on my 4Runner, I noticed slight scratches on the hood. I am not sure if they were caused by the duster or from my carelessness.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Products I am using:
Wax: Meguiar's Gold Class Liquid Car Wax.
Polish: Meguiar's Mirror Glass #7.
Orbital Buffer: 6" Coleman Powermate
Microfiber towels
 
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I'm no expert, but I've always been told Porter-Cable was the way to go. Do a search or browse the detailing threads and there is a ton of info on this. There are different types of pads made specifically for different detailing tasks.
 
That coleman orbital won't harm your finish. Its basically good for applying wax, not to remove scratches. It won't build up enough speed and heat for that.

I don't like Megiuars #7, it can be a PITA to remove. The duster may have left parafin wax streaks instead of scratches. Did you examin them closely to be sure they were scratches. If large enough particles get in between the duster and your finish, you can get scratches, but those dusters are known to leave parafin wax behind.
 
I have a 6" turtle wax buffer that does fine. It won't do what a Porter Cable does. But is better than doing everything by hand. What I do:

First, 2 washes.

Next, clay bar.

Now polish:

1. Place a terry cloth pad on the buffer.
2. Soak foam buffer pad with water, ring it out.
3. Place foam pad over terry cloth on buffer.
4. Apply a dime size portion of polish on buffer. Spread on paint with buffer off. Turn on buffer. Do on section at a time (a door, 1/2 the hood, etc.)
5. After the truck is done, remove all the polish by hand, or with terry cloth on buffer. Replace terry cloth pads as needed.

Eagle One Wet Wipe N' Shine can be used to remove any stubborn polish.

Wax by hand. Use a damp foam pad or MF applicator. Eagle One can also be used to spray the applicator. Only a little wax is needed. Let wax dry. Remove wax by hand, or wtih buffer.

Is the speed adjustable on the buffer? Mine is just on/off.
 
Bluto said:
I have a 6" turtle wax buffer that does fine. It won't do what a Porter Cable does. But is better than doing everything by hand. What I do:

First, 2 washes.

Next, clay bar.

Now polish:

1. Place a terry cloth pad on the buffer.
2. Soak foam buffer pad with water, ring it out.
3. Place foam pad over terry cloth on buffer.
4. Apply a dime size portion of polish on buffer. Spread on paint with buffer off. Turn on buffer. Do on section at a time (a door, 1/2 the hood, etc.)
5. After the truck is done, remove all the polish by hand, or with terry cloth on buffer. Replace terry cloth pads as needed.

Eagle One Wet Wipe N' Shine can be used to remove any stubborn polish.

Wax by hand. Use a damp foam pad or MF applicator. Eagle One can also be used to spray the applicator. Only a little wax is needed. Let wax dry. Remove wax by hand, or wtih buffer.

Is the speed adjustable on the buffer? Mine is just on/off.
You really should wash after the clay bar to remove any residue that the clay bar leaves behind. Never hurts to be a bit cautious when taking are of the exterior.
 
jharris2 said:
You really should wash after the clay bar to remove any residue that the clay bar leaves behind. Never hurts to be a bit cautious when taking are of the exterior.

A good step I forgot. Washing also removes any oil/dirt/grime the clay bar exposed. I've had the surface of a heavily contaminated black car look like a oil sheen while I clayed.

I usually clay using a warm bucket of car wash as lube. Makes it easy to wash and rise as you clay.
 
I only use the buffer for taking off the wax, not applying it. Apply by hand, then use a clean bonnet to buff off the dry wax haze. And I use Meguiars Yellow Wax in the tan bottle.
 
I also think you guys would have better results just using the buffer to remove the wax rather than apply and remove. You can do a better job in the smaller areas by hand.

Lately I've been using a soft towel instead of a terry cloth bonnet. I just wrap the towel around the head of the buffer and buff. This way I can rotate the part of the towel that touches the paint while I buff so I can keep a clean part doing the work. It works a lot better than any bonnet I have ever used.
 
I just had REALLY good results by using the following method for detailing my galactic gray 06...

1. Wash with Meguiar's Hi-Tech Wash (in tan bottle), then rinse and leave wet. Use a chenile wash mit and start at the top of the truck, then work your way down to avoid spreading dirt on the paint. If you want to be anal, you can use the two bucket method, one for soap, the other for rinsing.

2. Clay bar the paint with Meguiar's Quik-Clay system. Use the spray bottle of Quik Detailer (included in the kit) for lubrication with the clay. Rinse or wash again after claying, then dry.

3. Use Meguiar's Deep Crystal #2 Paint Cleaner (in burgundy bottle) to clean the paint and remove the light swirls. This is a non-agressive product and is applied by hand with a foam applicator pad. It won't remove scratches, but will clean the finish and take care of the light swirls you see on a sunny day. Do small areas at a time and wipe it off before it dries with a microfiber towel.

4. Use Meguiar's show car glaze (I think it's #7 in the tan bottle). This is a pure polish and will replenish the finish with needed oils to make the paint look deep and glossy before you seal it with wax. Apply and remove by hand, same method as the paint cleaner. Make sure you use different foam applicator pads and microfiber towels for the different products.

5. Apply two light coats of Meguiar's Yellow Wax (tan bottle). Apply with applicator pad, then remove with microfiber towel.

Then you're done! Now you just maintain it for the next few months with regular washes, quik spray waxes/detailers, and/or California Car duster. This method takes quite a while, but can be done all by hand and gives great results that will last for a while. Good luck.

(BTW, I have no affiliation with Meguiar's. I just did some research on their online forum after getting the new 4Runner. After trying their methods and seeing the great results firsthand, I now recommend it to anyone)
 

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