V6 engine replacement vs head gasket repair ???

[phatcheeks]

So I made some more progress tonight. I was able to remove the lower intake and the passenger side valve cover. It's definitely slow going for me. I am trying to take pictures of everything so that I can figure out where everything goes when I put it back. I also loosened the harmonic balancer bolt by bump starting the truck while using a breaker bar. This was a bit sketchy but it turned out to be very easy.

This is where I ended up tonight. I got stuck on trying to remove the clips that are noted with the 2 red arrows in the bottom of the picture.

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A close up of one of the clips on the power steering pump. I am tempted to break that off.

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My intake looks pretty greasy and oily. Is that normal for a truck with almost 300k miles?

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Good Stuff. Take it nice and slow, no need to rush a big job like this.

My intake looked pretty bad too at around 145000 miles. might be worth spraying some sort of grease remover while you are there and let it soak for some time.

 

[MikeinNH67]

So far it looks way better than mine did when I got it. The previous owner apparently didn't like to change the oil. On the driver's side on mine there was hardened deposits near the top of the timing chain.

 

[djpope09]

So I made some more progress tonight. I was able to remove the lower intake and the passenger side valve cover. It's definitely slow going for me. I am trying to take pictures of everything so that I can figure out where everything goes when I put it back. I also loosened the harmonic balancer bolt by bump starting the truck while using a breaker bar. This was a bit sketchy but it turned out to be very easy.

This is where I ended up tonight. I got stuck on trying to remove the clips that are noted with the 2 red arrows in the bottom of the picture.

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A close up of one of the clips on the power steering pump. I am tempted to break that off.

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My intake looks pretty greasy and oily. Is that normal for a truck with almost 300k miles?

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My intake looked like that with 189k miles on it too. I didn't take the time to degrease it, but I should have. There's videos on Youtube for how to clean it and which degreasers work best.

 

[djpope09]

1) Head bolt tool
- I found the CTA tools head bolt tool but I want to be sure that will fit well as I do not want to round out any head bolts. Any reason not to use this one? Anyone use the Toyota tool, 09013-7C310?
I used the snap-on version. Just make sure its a good quality tool because those bolts are on tight. Id use either toyota or snap on. Not sure about CTA quality.

2) Gasket sealer
- Regarding sealing the front timing cover and front part of the oil pan. Is the Toyota FIPG sufficient for both?
I believe its the same. Aisin sells a FIGP which i believe is the same as the toyota one. Its good for timing cover and valve cover.

3) Replacement head gaskets and seals for timing cover and oil pickup
- Are all of these gaskets part of one kit? If so, does anyone have a part number handy?
04112-31720 is what I used.


4) Head studs
- It seems like the consensus is to replace them. I plan to just go with the OEM ones.
I used fel-pro but OEM is always the best.

I agree with phatcheeks on the head bolt tool. I talked to zguy1 in a message, but wanted to add it here. I used the CTA tool when I did it and it was a huge PITA and I ended up stripping a head bolt when I was taking the heads off. It will work, but you really have to wiggle it around to get it fully seated. You'll know it's seated when it makes a "pop" sound, if you don't hear that, don't try to move the bolt. Save yourself the trouble and get the Snap-on or Toyota tool.

 

[zguy1]

I agree with phatcheeks on the head bolt tool. I talked to zguy1 in a message, but wanted to add it here. I used the CTA tool when I did it and it was a huge PITA and I ended up stripping a head bolt when I was taking the heads off. It will work, but you really have to wiggle it around to get it fully seated. You'll know it's seated when it makes a "pop" sound, if you don't hear that, don't try to move the bolt. Save yourself the trouble and get the Snap-on or Toyota tool.

The CTA tool is supposed to arrive on Monday but after hearing from multiple folks, including you, I will try to get either the Snap On or the Toyota one. I haven't look yet, but I am not sure where I would get a Snap On one. I didn't place my order for the gasket kit or the head bolts yet so maybe I can get the Toyota at the same time.

I plan to get that OEM kit, head bolts and FIPG sealer. Still waiting till I finish disassembling to decide on replacing any timing components still. I will replace the water pump and thermostat too but I will order ASIN parts from Rock Auto.

I didn't work on the truck today, weather was too nice. :

 

[daprotege5]

might as well change the knock sensors while your in there, if they've never been changed before just as preventative. as if they go out you have to do exactly the same job just to replace them.

 

[AuSeeker]

The CTA tool is supposed to arrive on Monday but after hearing from multiple folks, including you, I will try to get either the Snap On or the Toyota one. I haven't look yet, but I am not sure where I would get a Snap On one. I didn't place my order for the gasket kit or the head bolts yet so maybe I can get the Toyota at the same time.

I plan to get that OEM kit, head bolts and FIPG sealer. Still waiting till I finish disassembling to decide on replacing any timing components still. I will replace the water pump and thermostat too but I will order ASIN parts from Rock Auto.

I didn't work on the truck today, weather was too nice. :

You can order Snap-On tools online.

Snap-on Store

Toyota Tool.

https://toyota.service-solutions.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=09013-7C310

 

[zguy1]

might as well change the knock sensors while your in there, if they've never been changed before just as preventative. as if they go out you have to do exactly the same job just to replace them.

What's that phrase?? "While you're in there."

You can order Snap-On tools online.

Snap-on Store

Toyota Tool.

https://toyota.service-solutions.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=09013-7C310

Thank you. I will order one of these.

 

[zguy1]

I made some more progress tonight. Pulled the right valve cover, pulleys, power steering pump, alternator, oil filter housing and water pump. That alternator was a real pain in the you know what.

I did notice on the water pump that there was a bunch of crud. Not sure if that is normal or if it leaked at one time. That is hidden behind the fan pulley so you would never know unless it leaked out.

Tomorrow I will work on unbolting the compressor and then attempt to pull the timing cover.

 

[AuSeeker]

I made some more progress tonight. Pulled the right valve cover, pulleys, power steering pump, alternator, oil filter housing and water pump. That alternator was a real pain in the you know what.

I did notice on the water pump that there was a bunch of crud. Not sure if that is normal or if it leaked at one time. That is hidden behind the fan pulley so you would never know unless it leaked out.

Tomorrow I will work on unbolting the compressor and then attempt to pull the timing cover.

That's for sure a leaking water pump, that where they leak, it's a weep hole once the shaft seal deteriorates that is where it will leak, definitely time for replacement it and it was an active leak.

Anytime on these Toyotas that uses the pink coolant and you see that pink crud it's an active leak.

 

[zguy1]

So I spent several hours removing the A/C compressor this evening. It was a pain to get to the bolts holding the compressor to the bracket that has the tensioner on it. After much swearing and removing some wire harnesses, I was able to unbolt it and get it out of the way. I was able to remove that bracket as well.

So I am struggling to get the harmonic balancer off. From my understanding it is not pressed on and should come off.

Do I need some sort of a puller still?
I don't want to bend it or break something.

thanks...

 

[daprotege5]

So I spent several hours removing the A/C compressor this evening. It was a pain to get to the bolts holding the compressor to the bracket that has the tensioner on it. After much swearing and removing some wire harnesses, I was able to unbolt it and get it out of the way. I was able to remove that bracket as well.

So I am struggling to get the harmonic balancer off. From my understanding it is not pressed on and should come off.

Do I need some sort of a puller still?
I don't want to bend it or break something.

thanks...

their a little tight to pull off, a pulley puller works just fine.

 

[MikeinNH67]

their a little tight to pull off, a pulley puller works just fine.

This ^^^ You'll need some sort of puller. I recall there being a threaded hole on each of the pulley spindles. With the puller it slowly moved on out with only a bit of effort.

I used something similar to this. Obviously metric bolts are needed.
Amazon.com: Auto Body Now ABN Harmonic Balancer Puller 46-Piece Tool Kit – Flywheel Remover, Crankshaft Pulley Removal, Steering Wheel Pulling Set : Automotive

 

[zguy1]

Update on progress...

I did rent a harmonic balancer puller the other day but I could not use it. Looks like I needed M8x1.5 bolts to fit the balancer and the kit I rented only had M8x1.25 ones. I ended up tapping the balancer with a rubber mallet and I was able to pull it off.

Tonight I was able to get both heads out of the truck.

My next steps are to try and remove the exhaust manifolds from the heads since they are out of the truck now. I plan to take the heads to the machine shop hopefully by the end of the week. I'm still waiting on my parts to arrive specifically the gasket set which contains valve seals. I want to have those with me when I go to the machine shop.

All in all this has been a tedious job. With the exception of prepping the engine block surface and sealing the timing cover I am not too worried about putting the truck back together. All of the bolts have been bagged along the way. I am a bit worried about all of the harnesses and how they route through the engine area. Hopefully it will be easy on reassembly.

Here are some pics...

Heads ready to come out.

Driver's side w/ gasket removed.

Drivers side head (valve side)

Both heads w/ exhaust manifolds attached.

 

[Bundutrailer]

Following closely, am only at 93k miles but keeping for life.

From all I read at my mileage replacing the water pump is a good preventative measure, wonder how long people took to replace theirs

 

[MikeinNH67]

Update on progress...

I did rent a harmonic balancer puller the other day but I could not use it. Looks like I needed M8x1.5 bolts to fit the balancer and the kit I rented only had M8x1.25 ones. I ended up tapping the balancer with a rubber mallet and I was able to pull it off.

Tonight I was able to get both heads out of the truck.

My next steps are to try and remove the exhaust manifolds from the heads since they are out of the truck now. I plan to take the heads to the machine shop hopefully by the end of the week. I'm still waiting on my parts to arrive specifically the gasket set which contains valve seals. I want to have those with me when I go to the machine shop.

Nice going! Can you see where the issue was? Heat is your friend on those exhaust manifold bolts.

 

[zguy1]

Nice going! Can you see where the issue was? Heat is your friend on those exhaust manifold bolts.

I missed the heat part. hwell: I got 11 out of 12 bolts. The impact just round one of the nuts off.
Should still try some heat and then attempt with vice grips? I would hate to bring in one head with the exhaust manifold hanging on with one rounded bolt. In hindsight, I used my 3/8 impact and probably should of hit it with my 1/2 instead.

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I looked at the gasket and I really couldn't tell. Here are some pictures of the head gasket from the driver's side. The first one is gasket as is and the second is a picture of it upside down to show the surface facing the block.

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[AuSeeker]

I missed the heat part. hwell: I got 11 out of 12 bolts. The impact just round one of the nuts off.
Should still try some heat and then attempt with vice grips? I would hate to bring in one head with the exhaust manifold hanging on with one rounded bolt. In hindsight, I used my 3/8 impact and probably should of hit it with my 1/2 instead.

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When you were removing the manifold nuts, did you use a 6 point socket, or a 12 point socket?

If you used a 12 point socket you still maybe able to remove that last nut with a 6 point socket, make sure it all the way on the nut even if you have to tap it a bit with a hammer, and yes use litte bit of heat on it.

A 6 point socket is always best to avoid rounding off stubborn nuts and bolts, there much more surface contact with the sides of the nut/bolt than when using a 12 point socket, if you don't have a good set of 6 points socket I recommend getting one and using them more often than not.

 

[zguy1]

When you were removing the manifold nuts, did you use a 6 point socket, or a 12 point socket?

If you used a 12 point socket you still maybe able to remove that last nut with a 6 point socket, make sure it all the way on the nut even if you have to tap it a bit with a hammer, and yes use litte bit of heat on it.

A 6 point socket is always best to avoid rounding off stubborn nuts and bolts, there much more surface contact with the sides of the nut/bolt than when using a 12 point socket, if you don't have a good set of 6 points socket I recommend getting one and using them more often than not.

It was a 6 point impact socket.

 

[AuSeeker]

It was a 6 point impact socket.

You could try a slightly smaller socket if you can tap it on the nut with a hammer, other wise heat and ViseGrips.