V6 engine replacement vs head gasket repair ???

[zguy1]

So I have been reading the FSM some more and ran into few more things that were a bit unclear.

The FSM refers to two different types of seal packing and Threebond.

1) 08826-00080 (replaced by 00295-00103)
- This appears to be referenced for the oil pan gasket, on the front of the head gaskets, and also on the timing cover. I already have this one.

2) 08826-00100
- This is also referenced when installing the timing cover as well. I'm not sure what the difference is between this one the one above. Specific to the water pump??? I also noticed that the ends of the water pump bolts appeared to have some silicone on the threads. I don't have this yet.

3) 08833-00080, THREE BOND 1344, LOCTITE 242 or equivalent
- Is this blue Loctite?

Appreciate the help...

Here is a pic of the FSM with the reference.

 

[djpope09]

I think I asked my local dealership about 1 and 2 and they told me to just use 00295-00103 for everything. I do remember that I only used that for the whole timing cover and the water pump parts, but you should probably ask your dealership if no one on here can confirm.

I used blue Loctite for the parts that called for Loctite 242.

 

[zguy1]

I started working on the truck again today after being out of town for a few weeks.

I cleaned up the cylinder block surface and did some cleaning of the pistons. I used a plastic razor blade and a brass brush along with some brake cleaner. I also wiped the cylinders with some oil. I am not sure how much more I can do without anything more abrasive.

How oil free does the block surface need to be? If I spray down the surface with brake cleaner it will go into the cylinders and remove any oil residue I have applied.

Should I just be using a microfiber towel and apply the brake cleaner to that and then wipe the surface as to avoid overspray into the cylinders?

 

[daprotege5]

keep up the good work, can't wait till you turn it on. i remember last year finally turning mine on, was such an awesome feeling. i had done the same job on the original motor i bought it with and it blew a 100 miles later, luckily got a crate motor during a 25% off parts sale. so got it for under $2700 for the crate. so i now have about 4k miles on it.

 

[MikeinNH67]

Looks good to me. I don't think you need to have it super clean, mainly smooth surfaces and minimal grease. Someone else will chime in if there's something I'm missing.

 

[zguy1]

I started to reassemble today. I got both heads installed. I am hoping the pace will start to pick up now.

I had to open the FIPG to use with the head gasket installation. The tube came with a cap but I wonder how I can clean or keep the applicator tip from getting clogged up so I can reuse it with the timing cover later.

Let me know if you have any suggestions on how to clean up the FIPG / silicone from the applicator tip.

 

[AuSeeker]

Just let the silicone dry in the applicator, when you're ready to use it again just use a piece of wire or a small allen wrench, etc. and push the dry silicone out of the applicator tip, going from the small end to the large end, it should come out very easy, I do this a lot when using regular silicone at work.

 

[zguy1]

I made a bit more progress today. I installed the rear water bypass joint, cams and timing components.

 

[daprotege5]

looking good so far, almost there. after this you should have no fear of tackling any job on the 4runner.

 

[zguy1]

looking good so far, almost there. after this you should have no fear of tackling any job on the 4runner.

Thanks, this job is the most involved thing I ever took on.

I was thinking ahead yesterday, do I need a special tool to bleed the air out the block for the coolant?

I’ve drained the coolant out of the radiator before when replacing it. Is this any different? I know a lot more coolant has come out as opposed to a simple radiator replacement.

 

[daprotege5]

Thanks, this job is the most involved thing I ever took on.

I was thinking ahead yesterday, do I need a special tool to bleed the air out the block for the coolant?

I’ve drained the coolant out of the radiator before when replacing it. Is this any different? I know a lot more coolant has come out as opposed to a simple radiator replacement.

i had bought a special funnel for my g35 years ago that helps bleeding the system out. it was a yellow funnel with a couple radiator attachments, i believe i bought it at napa. but leaving the cap off until it warms up with the cap off should bleed it enough.

 

[MikeinNH67]

i had bought a special funnel for my g35 years ago that helps bleeding the system out. it was a yellow funnel with a couple radiator attachments, i believe i bought it at napa. but leaving the cap off until it warms up with the cap off should bleed it enough.

A funnel like this? These do make life a bit easier but not a gotta have item. It will eventually fill all the spots it needs to even without this funnel.

Amazon.com: ABN Coolant Funnel Kit Radiator Spill Free Funnel Auto Coolant Flush Kit No Spill Funnel Radiator Funnel Fill Kit : Automotive

BTW, good progress there Z.

 

[gaber6]

Eh. FIPG just leave some oozed out that you can grab after it dries.

I just redid my thermostat and wp and just topped it as it ran and idled to temp with the heather on high. Gotta get it through the whole heater core I suppose.

Then just check it a few times after you drive and should be good to go. No special funnel needed

 

[zguy1]

Eh. FIPG just leave some oozed out that you can grab after it dries.

I just redid my thermostat and wp and just topped it as it ran and idled to temp with the heather on high. Gotta get it through the whole heater core I suppose.

Then just check it a few times after you drive and should be good to go. No special funnel needed

Regarding FIPG and the timing cover. I assume it will ooze out on the sides after I install it.

How and when do I clean up the excess stuff?

 

[zguy1]

So it turns out that I ordered the wrong valve lifter to fix one of my out of spec exhaust valves. I rechecked the clearance after installing the cams and timing components and found the error. Oh the joys of doing something very involved for the first time.

I got the new valve lifter today and installed it. I also installed the exhaust manifolds.

Now I am onto the timing cover. I was test fitting it a couple of times and found that the removing the two studs at the bottom does not give you any extra vertical movement of the cover as to avoid sliding the FIPG around when installing.

While test fitting, the new o-ring on the bottom of the timing cover kept falling off.

Is there something that I can use to help keep the o-ring in place during installation?

 

[lidstrom]

You can use some of the gasket maker or some sort of silicone. Let it dry and it should hold the oring during install. Hardest part for me was making sure the oil pump was in the correct orientation


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[zguy1]

You can use some of the gasket maker or some sort of silicone. Let it dry and it should hold the oring during install. Hardest part for me was making sure the oil pump was in the correct orientation


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Thanks. I am going to give this or use some grease to hold the oring. This is by far the sketchiest part of the job so far.

 

[zguy1]

I got the timing cover on today. Hopefully the oring on the bottom of it stayed on as well. I used some grease to gold it on. I can't say that I got the cover and all of the bolts installed including the water pump torqued down in 15 minutes. I guess I get an A for effort but a C- for execution.

Oh, and I did not get the timing cover on with the first try even though I test fit it. I got it on the second try.

 

[daprotege5]

the excitement, your almost there. great job so far!!

 

[zguy1]

Just let the silicone dry in the applicator, when you're ready to use it again just use a piece of wire or a small allen wrench, etc. and push the dry silicone out of the applicator tip, going from the small end to the large end, it should come out very easy, I do this a lot when using regular silicone at work.

the excitement, your almost there. great job so far!!

BTW, good progress there Z.

Hey guys. I was looking at the pictures that I took of the timing cover before installation. I noticed that I did not run the FIPG all the way to the bottom of the cover on both sides.

Do you think the FIPG squeezed enough to cover that gap or do I need to pull the cover?
I don't want to overthink it but wasn't sure if this would cause an oil leak.

Thanks.