V8 vibration full throttle after suspension refresh

baker

New member
2004 V8 with +250k miles and OME 2.5" lift with front level kit & diff lowering kit.

The lift has been in for nearly 4 years no issues.

Right before Thanksgiving I ordered parts to complete a full suspension refresh.
LCA (Beck/Arnley)
CV axles (Cardone HD)
Wheel bearings (B/A)
Tie rod ends
Sway bar bushings & end links
Rotors & calipers
UCA (SPC) location g.
ABS sensors& wires

Everything is new except knuckle & strut/springs.

After alignment, I'm getting a bad vibration only during hard acceleration from 0-40 mph. Only during throttle; not breaking or coasting. Turning has no real affect on it.

Replaced the CV axles 3 times, replaced the UCA twice (from Rocky Road Outfitters to the SPC), and replaced the wheel bearings twice. No change.

Had a local shop pull the rear drive shaft out, same vibration.

I'm thinking of pulling the front drive shaft.

Any thoughts?

5c035eb04c943dc0d196db2b1399e241.jpg
127a8a10cbe578ef6e379c109b653c09.jpg
317de4697b697602d330312279a725ae.jpg


Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 
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2004 V8 with +250k miles and OME 2.5" lift with front level kit & diff lowering kit.

The lift has been in for nearly 4 years no issues.

Right before Thanksgiving I ordered parts to complete a full suspension refresh.
LCA (Beck/Arnley)
CV axles (Cardone HD)
Wheel bearings (B/A)
Tie rod ends
Sway bar bushings & end links
Rotors & calipers
UCA (SPC) location g.
ABS sensors& wires

Everything is new except knuckle & strut/springs.

After alignment, I'm getting a bad vibration only during hard acceleration from 0-40 mph. Only during throttle; not breaking or coasting. Turning has no real affect on it.

Replaced the CV axles 3 times, replaced the UCA twice (from Rocky Road Outfitters to the SPC), and replaced the wheel bearings twice. No change.

Had a local shop pull the rear drive shaft out, same vibration.

I'm thinking of pulling the front drive shaft.

Any thoughts?

5c035eb04c943dc0d196db2b1399e241.jpg
127a8a10cbe578ef6e379c109b653c09.jpg
317de4697b697602d330312279a725ae.jpg


Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Probably has nothing to do with it, but those caster #s are terrible. You want more like 4+. Also probably unrelated but maybe rotate tires and see if any change occurs.
 
Yeah, balance and rotated...

I went with the SPC UCA so I could go to a 0°

Here is the alignment with the first set of UCA installed...
d9867e670a1565c73b3c9ec3a8b5710b.jpg
738d68c0d90b70bae1e2825107fc358e.jpg
8b429065cdc2bfe573f5e6f0187eb34b.jpg


Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Yeah, balance and rotated...

I went with the SPC UCA so I could go to a 0°

Here is the alignment with the first set of UCA installed...
d9867e670a1565c73b3c9ec3a8b5710b.jpg
738d68c0d90b70bae1e2825107fc358e.jpg
8b429065cdc2bfe573f5e6f0187eb34b.jpg


Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Just noticed you had a diff drop...a lot of people have complaints about those actually causing weird vibes. you may want to take it off and see if it goes away
 
Yeah, balance and rotated...

I went with the SPC UCA so I could go to a 0°

Here is the alignment with the first set of UCA installed...
d9867e670a1565c73b3c9ec3a8b5710b.jpg
738d68c0d90b70bae1e2825107fc358e.jpg
8b429065cdc2bfe573f5e6f0187eb34b.jpg


Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Also why would you want a 0 degree caster....thats no bueno. Camber is what you want at 0.

It is true that having low caster at the UCA is a good thing if you're worried about scrubbing the rear of the wheel liner area, but I would recommend at a minimum 3.5 degrees of caster. Most do this through the LCA by maxing out the adjustment all the way "forward".

YouTube

My recommendation is spot "C" on the SPCs and then max LCAs out as shown in video. Dial in the Camber up top via the SPC ball joint slide. Adjust toe as needed.

Driveability will be exponentially improved. Even if you think its "just fine" now
 
Also why would you want a 0 degree caster....thats no bueno. Camber is what you want at 0.

It is true that having low caster at the UCA is a good thing if you're worried about scrubbing the rear of the wheel liner area, but I would recommend at a minimum 3.5 degrees of caster. Most do this through the LCA by maxing out the adjustment all the way "forward".

YouTube

My recommendation is spot "C" on the SPCs and then max LCAs out as shown in video. Dial in the Camber up top via the SPC ball joint slide. Adjust toe as needed.

Driveability will be exponentially improved. Even if you think its "just fine" now

awesome video. I do get some rubbing in reverse on the front of the fender liner. hmm..


Also, could i have my outter CV nut too tight?
 

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