Valve adjustment game. Which ones would you re-shim?

[19963.4lsr5]

Valves sink in the head over time and get tighter from my experience.

One exhaust valve is having me think I want to get it closer to spec. But .017 is only .003 out of spec.

I'm pretty sure these numbers will be ok for 100,000 miles before a recheck. None of the valves are too tight which is what I was really checking for.


Tapatalk

 

[gamefreakgc]

In my experience with several Toyotas here's what I've seen:

Intake valve clearances shrink over time due to deposits
Exhaust valve clearances expand over time

I just had the misfortune of having to do a valve adjustment last week. Not very fun. Your intake valves looks pretty good, 0.001" off is close enough. However, your exhaust valves need to be done since the gap will only widen over time. 0.017" is 0.003 off, and will only get worse. At least re-shim the 0.017" gaps, and even better if you do the 0.016" gaps as well. 0.015" are fine since you're pretty darn close to being in spec. Note that Toyota only sells shims in 0.05 mm increments, so 2.80, 2.85, 2.90 etc. You may want to convert your gaps to milimeters so getting the correct sized shim is easier. For exhaust clearances it should be between 0.27 and 0.37 mm.

I normally do a valve adjustment job in conjunction with the timing belt since you can take the camshaft gears off and completely remove the camshafts. Much, much easier that poking around with the goofy SST plier and pick tool.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

In my experience with several Toyotas here's what I've seen:

Intake valve clearances shrink over time due to deposits
Exhaust valve clearances expand over time

I just had the misfortune of having to do a valve adjustment last week. Not very fun. Your intake valves looks pretty good, 0.001" off is close enough. However, your exhaust valves need to be done since the gap will only widen over time. 0.017" is 0.003 off, and will only get worse. At least re-shim the 0.017" gaps, and even better if you do the 0.016" gaps as well. 0.015" are fine since you're pretty darn close to being in spec. Note that Toyota only sells shims in 0.05 mm increments, so 2.80, 2.85, 2.90 etc. You may want to convert your gaps to milimeters so getting the correct sized shim is easier. For exhaust clearances it should be between 0.27 and 0.37 mm.

I normally do a valve adjustment job in conjunction with the timing belt since you can take the camshaft gears off and completely remove the camshafts. Much, much easier that poking around with the goofy SST plier and pick tool.

I was going to do the .017. However, you convinced me to do the .016's as well.

Last time I did this I converted to mm for shim purchasing ease. I agree pulling the cams are easy. My nice caliper is broken and I'm stuck with a digital one that's plastic.

Since I rolled the cams to check clearance I'll double check the exhaust side and pull the pucks out and measure them and go from there. I have a few from the last time I did this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gamefreakgc]

I was going to do the .017. However, you convinced me to do the .016's as well.

Last time I did this I converted to mm for shim purchasing ease. I agree pulling the cams are easy. My nice caliper is broken and I'm stuck with a digital one that's plastic.

Since I rolled the cams to check clearance I'll double check the exhaust side and pull the pucks out and measure them and go from there. I have a few from the last time I did this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you need any more I've got a ton on my bench right now too. Those little buggers are expensive so I can ship you a size if you don't have it. The ones I have range from 2.80 mm to 3.04 mm I think.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

If you need any more I've got a ton on my bench right now too. Those little buggers are expensive so I can ship you a size if you don't have it. The ones I have range from 2.80 mm to 3.04 mm I think.

Thanks for the offer. My exhaust valves need 3.05's and 3.10's. I'll be able to recycle the 3.00 shims in the head now.

I finished up checking, did the math and missed the dealers open hours by 30min.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thanks for the offer. My exhaust valves need 3.05's and 3.10's. I'll be able to recycle the 3.00 shims in the head now.

I finished up checking, did the math and missed the dealers open hours by 30min.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, that was the problem I had too. I ordered one 3.10, three 3.15's and five 3.20's. My exhaust valves needed a little help lol.

 

[baja1]

was this a noisy valve train or just maintenance?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Yeah, that was the problem I had too. I ordered one 3.10, three 3.15's and five 3.20's. My exhaust valves needed a little help lol.

I decided to do all the exhaust valves. Even the ones that are .015


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[phattyduck]

Bumping an old thread for some similar advice.

I am checking (and adjusting, if needed) valve clearances in preparation for a supercharger install. I figure at ~325k miles, it was finally time to check and make sure everything was good under the valve covers.

Luckily, everything is safe. Looks like all the intakes are in spec (0.006-0.009) and all of bank two (driver's side) exhaust is in spec (0.011-0.014). Here are the numbers:

		Ex Lash	In Lash
Cyl 5	Rear	0.016	0.007
	Front	0.015	0.009
Cyl 3	Rear	0.016	0.007
	Front	0.013	0.008
Cyl 1	Rear	0.016	0.007
	Front	0.013	0.007
Cyl 6	Rear	0.014	0.008
	Front	0.013	0.007
Cyl 4	Rear	0.014	0.007
	Front	0.014	0.006
Cyl 2	Rear	0.014	0.007
	Front	0.014	0.009

My plan was to remove the 1/3/5 exhaust cam and just do the loose exhaust valves and leave the rest alone (so, adjust the 0.0015 and 0.016 clearances). They made it >300k miles without problem and I'd rather not mess with success without a good reason.

Does that seem like a reasonable plan? Is there any reason to mess with any valves a that are on the edge of the spec (intake 0.009's and exhaust 0.014's)?

Thanks,
Charlie

 

[mtbtim]

Bumping an old thread for some similar advice.

I am checking (and adjusting, if needed) valve clearances in preparation for a supercharger install. I figure at ~325k miles, it was finally time to check and make sure everything was good under the valve covers.

Luckily, everything is safe. Looks like all the intakes are in spec (0.006-0.009) and all of bank two (driver's side) exhaust is in spec (0.011-0.014). Here are the numbers:

		Ex Lash	In Lash
Cyl 5	Rear	0.016	0.007
	Front	0.015	0.009
Cyl 3	Rear	0.016	0.007
	Front	0.013	0.008
Cyl 1	Rear	0.016	0.007
	Front	0.013	0.007
Cyl 6	Rear	0.014	0.008
	Front	0.013	0.007
Cyl 4	Rear	0.014	0.007
	Front	0.014	0.006
Cyl 2	Rear	0.014	0.007
	Front	0.014	0.009

My plan was to remove the 1/3/5 exhaust cam and just do the loose exhaust valves and leave the rest alone (so, adjust the 0.0015 and 0.016 clearances). They made it >300k miles without problem and I'd rather not mess with success without a good reason.

Does that seem like a reasonable plan? Is there any reason to mess with any valves a that are on the edge of the spec (intake 0.009's and exhaust 0.014's)?

Thanks,
Charlie

Valves usually tighten, not loosen, so the numbers you got aren't the usual from what I've seen.

I'd definitely bring the loose exhaust valves back down to the top of the spec, .013 - .014.

I would adjust that one intake valve at .006. That's at the bottom of the spec. In a perfect world, your valve lash numbers would be on the higher end of the spec, because like I said, valves usually tighten and a tight valve can end up burning up if it doesn't close all the way. So, it depends how much work you want to do.

 

[phattyduck]

Valves usually tighten, not loosen, so the numbers you got aren't the usual from what I've seen.

I'd definitely bring the loose exhaust valves back down to the top of the spec, .013 - .014.

I would adjust that one intake valve at .006. That's at the bottom of the spec. In a perfect world, your valve lash numbers would be on the higher end of the spec, because like I said, valves usually tighten and a tight valve can end up burning up if it doesn't close all the way. So, it depends how much work you want to do.

I agree - I did expect more than 1 valve to tighten. I was hearing just a touch of what I thought was valve tap when cold (like, stereo off, windows up, only after fan slows down and in cool/cold weather), so I also did expect some loose valves.

And leave it to Tim to suggest getting things perfect. :hatsoff:

It did take >300k miles to get here, which does put me at ease, generally.

-Charlie

 

[brillo_76]

You can get them in perfect spec If you want spend a few days doing the adjusting the clearance with shims. I think I recall Tim did do one engine exact or as close as humanly possible to exact. However, I have know idea how much time that took. I personally just aim for spec or middle of the spec and call it good enough.

 

[mtbtim]

You can get them in perfect spec If you want spend a few days doing the adjusting the clearance with shims. I think I recall Tim did do one engine exact or as close as humanly possible to exact. However, I have know idea how much time that took. I personally just aim for spec or middle of the spec and call it good enough.

No doubt, it'a a pain in the ass to adjust the valves on this engine. I do have a pretty complete set of shims which lessens the time involved without having to measure, figure out you don't have the right one to swap in and then have to put the old one back and wait to order the correct one.

Using a pick to lift the shim works, but can be a pain. I now use a fine air nozzle to blast air at the notch in the bucket to lift the shim. It works really well.

Anywhere within the spec is fine, but I would like to see them either somewhere in the middle or on the higher end of the spec.

 

[mtbtim]

I agree - I did expect more than 1 valve to tighten. I was hearing just a touch of what I thought was valve tap when cold (like, stereo off, windows up, only after fan slows down and in cool/cold weather), so I also did expect some loose valves.

And leave it to Tim to suggest getting things perfect. :hatsoff:

It did take >300k miles to get here, which does put me at ease, generally.

-Charlie

I would gladly change places with you compared to what I recently went through. I developed a misfire in my #3 cylinder and diagnosed it as either a bad head gasket or a cracked head. I spent 8 days swapping the heads on my 98 4runner which only has 180k on it. The #3 cylinder was definitely cracked between the valves like has happened to a lot of guys, including my buddy Sean. It was a serious bummer to put that much work and money into that engine, but hopefully it doesn't happen again. The achilles heel of these engines is definitely the heads. I was almost going to pull the plug and buy a complete rebuilt engine, but decided to fix the one I have.

 

[brillo_76]

I would gladly change places with you compared to what I recently went through. I developed a misfire in my #3 cylinder and diagnosed it as either a bad head gasket or a cracked head. I spent 8 days swapping the heads on my 98 4runner which only has 180k on it. The #3 cylinder was definitely cracked between the valves like has happened to a lot of guys, including my buddy Sean. It was a serious bummer to put that much work and money into that engine, but hopefully it doesn't happen again. The achilles heel of these engines is definitely the heads. I was almost going to pull the plug and buy a complete rebuilt engine, but decided to fix the one I have.

That does seem to be where these head will crack right between the valves. By any chance, did you take that engine to H? Mostly that is the cause of the head crack between the valves... Or will also warp the deck and the head gasket will fail. Seen this happen since the 1980s 22Rs engines.. The cast blocks will take the heat. Aluminum is not so forgiving. That's really low mileage for a 5VZ-FE head to crack. That was definitely a major bummer. At least you dont have to deal with the steel rot. Your exhaust will at least come apart without things snapping and your headers will come off easier..

You did the correct call as you know what you have with that engine core. JDM engines are getting a lot more rare and more $$ I have heard some people having horror stories with them on occasion. The junk yard engines are russian roulette. If i had to buy a used 5VZ-FE engine. I would have to have a video of that engine running if used or rebuilt one from a very reputable builder If I didn't just rebuild it myself.

 

[mtbtim]

That does seem to be where these head will crack right between the valves. By any chance, did you take that engine to H? Mostly that is the cause of the head crack between the valves... Or will also warp the deck and the head gasket will fail. Seen this happen since the 1980s 22Rs engines.. The cast blocks will take the heat. Aluminum is not so forgiving. That's really low mileage for a 5VZ-FE head to crack. That was definitely a major bummer. At least you dont have to deal with the steel rot. Your exhaust will at least come apart without things snapping and your headers will come off easier..

You did the correct call as you know what you have with that engine core. JDM engines are getting a lot more rare and more $$ I have heard some people having horror stories with them on occasion. The junk yard engines are russian roulette. If i had to buy a used 5VZ-FE engine. I would have to have a video of that engine running if used or rebuilt one from a very reputable builder If I didn't just rebuild it myself.

The engine never overheated, but it did run at higher temps on many occasions due to hot ambient temps, with my rig much heavier than stock weight, and with a bumper and winch that do block some air flow through the radiator. I think the highest temp I recorded was 215. At that temp, the dash gauge looks normal with the needle sitting somewhere in the middle of the gauge.

I do think the higher temps might have something to do with my head cracking, but then again, lots of guys have reported a cracked #3 cylinder. It seems to be a weak point in the casting of these OEM heads.

 

[brillo_76]

The engine never overheated, but it did run at higher temps on many occasions due to hot ambient temps, with my rig much heavier than stock weight, and with a bumper and winch that do block some air flow through the radiator. I think the highest temp I recorded was 215. At that temp, the dash gauge looks normal with the needle sitting somewhere in the middle of the gauge.

I do think the higher temps might have something to do with my head cracking, but then again, lots of guys have reported a cracked #3 cylinder. It seems to be a weak point in the casting of these OEM heads.

Yup. Sure seems to be the weakest part in the head cast.. Glad you got it fixed up.

 

[phattyduck]

No doubt, it'a a pain in the ass to adjust the valves on this engine. I do have a pretty complete set of shims which lessens the time involved without having to measure, figure out you don't have the right one to swap in and then have to put the old one back and wait to order the correct one.

Using a pick to lift the shim works, but can be a pain. I now use a fine air nozzle to blast air at the notch in the bucket to lift the shim. It works really well.

Anywhere within the spec is fine, but I would like to see them either somewhere in the middle or on the higher end of the spec.

Bit the bullet and purchased the valve shim tool so I can check the shim thickness on the other valves than the passenger side exhaust ones. Maybe I'll be able to get some of them on the edge back the middle of the range for 'free' other than some extra effort...

Lots of rain this week and I'm out of town over the weekend, so this will take a bit to get done.

-Charlie

 

[2TH4IST]

Kicking around checking the shimming. I'm a bit over 246k miles so it well time to check. About to bite the bullet on the tool too, I found it on Amayama for 124$ any one find it cheaper for oem toyota tool?

 

[phattyduck]

Kicking around checking the shimming. I'm a bit over 246k miles so it well time to check. About to bite the bullet on the tool too, I found it on Amayama for 124$ any one find it cheaper for oem toyota tool?

Its on here Home Page - Toyota Tools and Equipment, which is run by SnapOn for dealers. I couldn't get through the checkout for some reason, so I bought an aftermarket one... we shall see how it works.

-Charlie