Very frustrated with rebuilt 22re won't start

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White87sr5

New member
Hey all,

I'm at my wits end with this motor. It's an 87' 22re that's just been completely rebuilt. It's cranking but will not start. Keep in mind this motor ran before the tear down too. We put starter fluid in one cylinder and it would fire but not start.

- getting spark
- timing is right
- fuel pressure is right
- power to fuel injectors and resistor solenoid is good
- checked all fuses twice none are bad
- all four ground wires are grounded in the right spots
- emptied gas tank due to sitting and put fresh gas in
- ecu is grounded and hooked up correctly

Any advice on what to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
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Well, you need fuel air and spark, right? Then you need timing and compression. I don't see that you've checked compression yet, so I'd go there next.
 
And another one I don't see in the list. Did you set the valve lash correctly? Not sure if you rebuilt the top half too, but that would be bad if you didn't set them and they're just completely closed, no way for fuel to get into the cylinders!

Compression test would be another test, but it could be something as simple as re-clocking the distributor. Make sure the rotor is sitting on #1 at TDC. I know you said timing is correct, but how did you check this?

Another quick test, a little diesel start sprayed into the throttlebody (I use one of the vacuum line pipes coming out of the tb), have someone crank while you spray, see if it gets fired up. If not, you could have something wrong with spark.
 
Yes we've done a compression test and it read just fine. I have checked the distributor twice to make sure it's not 180 off and the plug wires are in the correct order. The valve lash I will have to look into..
 
Yes we checked the valve clearances on both intake and exhaust sides. 22reperformance in Chico did rebuild the head other than a cam.
 
White87sr5 said:
Any other ideas? I'm at a standstill on things to test :/
Click to expand...

When you run out of places to look for trouble, start over. Be more thorough if you can. For ex, you say "getting spark", does that mean you watched the plug arc to the block, or did you get out the multimeter and physically test the coil/ohm the wires? You say power to fuel injectors is good, but have you verified that the injectors themselves are good? Are they firing?

Just keep digging. You'll find it.
 
Yes I watched the spark plug arc to the block they are brand new plugs. We also tested with a multimeter. I was assuming the injectors were good since it ran before we took it apart and we also cleaned the injectors thoroughly.
 
And here's yet another question, are the plugs wet or fouled? If you've been cranking it for any period of time, you should have some pretty wet plugs by now! If they are not wet, I'd look more into injectors rather than spark. If they are soaking wet (or at least visibly wet), then pull 'em all out, clear the cylinders so they're not soaking wet (you might have cylinder wash out too if its wet, check your oil for fuel smell, may need to change that too), and either stuff some new plugs in there (check the gap!) or clean and gap the used ones.

BPR5ES plugs, right? NGK is still a great plug to use for Toyota engines, and they are pretty cheap too.
 
hmm I don't think I actually checked to see if the plugs were wet from cranking it. They are brand new oem Toyota plugs though. I did a test on the injector that goes into the top of the plenum..if I put the injector on backwards and try to start the truck shouldn't I fuel coming out of that injector? Because I didnt.
 
White87sr5 said:
I did a test on the injector that goes into the top of the plenum..if I put the injector on backwards and try to start the truck shouldn't I fuel coming out of that injector? Because I didnt.
Click to expand...

that is the Cold Start Injector. if the ambient temperature is above a specified minimum, it won't fire, because there is no need for it. not the same as the fuel injectors for the combustion chamber.
 
wallytoo said:
that is the Cold Start Injector. if the ambient temperature is above a specified minimum, it won't fire, because there is no need for it. not the same as the fuel injectors for the combustion chamber.
Click to expand...

Depending on which Thermo Cold Start Time Switch you have in truck, below is the temperature, they should make the COLD SWITCH INJECTOR FIRE. So yes it should spray some fuel.


89462–30011 35C (95F) to

89462–20050 45C (113F).
 
Regarding the Cold start injector, make sure the contacts in the pigtail of the wiring harness are sticking out enough to contact the injector, mine were not once and i was troubleshooting a long crank issue, it was just the contacts pushed up in the pigtail too far fyi.
 
id did a body swap a while back and for what ever reason i couldnt get the fkr to run for a day. i swapped out the efi relay and it fired right up.
 
Did you stethoscope your injectors while you were cranking it over?
You should hear the clicking. What was your fuel pressure and where did you test it?
 
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