Vibration after lift and tires

Now that you've said something I remember having a slight vibration at 60 mph when I had the tires installed with no lift. Lifting it did actually take it away, don't ask me how or why but it did. Honestly if it ever came down to a warranty thing just reinstall your stock suspension if you think the dealership would hassle you. It's not ideal but can be done.

Thanks for your input. Yes I know I can always re-install the stock suspension but as you mentioned that is definitely not ideal! LOL! Especially with the KDSS
 
Now that you've said something I remember having a slight vibration at 60 mph when I had the tires installed with no lift. Lifting it did actually take it away, don't ask me how or why but it did. Honestly if it ever came down to a warranty thing just reinstall your stock suspension if you think the dealership would hassle you. It's not ideal but can be done.
The no vibes after lift statement is making me want to just go ahead and lift mine asap at this point lol. I have read a lot on this issue and there have been multiple people if not everyone say the lift fixed it. Not the cheap spacer lifts but a proper coil and strut lift. I am going to give this a few more tries and then the lift will be the next option...
 
The no vibes after lift statement is making me want to just go ahead and lift mine asap at this point lol. I have read a lot on this issue and there have been multiple people if not everyone say the lift fixed it. Not the cheap spacer lifts but a proper coil and strut lift. I am going to give this a few more tries and then the lift will be the next option...



If it helps you at all with your decision I have a toytec (eibach) coil front lift, 2.5 inch and a SAW 2 inch cool in the rear with Bilstein 5100s all around. So there may be some merit to the lift idea.


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If it helps you at all with your decision I have a toytec (eibach) coil front lift, 2.5 inch and a SAW 2 inch cool in the rear with Bilstein 5100s all around. So there may be some merit to the lift idea.


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I am strongly considering this kit as for what I have read + the price are both good. How are you liking them? The other kit I am considering is the yellow toytec OME kit around $1000 or so. Do you have aftermarket UCAs?

Thanks,
Mike.
 
I love them. It's a nice ride, in my opinion and it's a perfect lift for my needs. I have not pulled the trigger on ucas yet. My alignment place was able to get close to 4.0 caster on both sides. However I may get ucas in the future to complete the suspension.


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If I can't resolve this vibration issue soon, the lift I will be installing is 5100s all around with the toytec ultimate adjustable front coil overs added to it for the front. In the rear I have wheelers T 13 coils ready to go....

Hopefully the lift doesn't make this issue worse.
 
If I can't resolve this vibration issue soon, the lift I will be installing is 5100s all around with the toytec ultimate adjustable front coil overs added to it for the front. In the rear I have wheelers T 13 coils ready to go....

Hopefully the lift doesn't make this issue worse.
We are both in the exact same boat lol. That is my fear as well that once I do lift the issue will just get worse but need to have SOME positive thinking about this lol. Wish Toyota would do something about this. I may try and increase my caster with stock UCA's (not sure if even possible) if it is just a steering geometry issue. Thus why the lifts have seemed to cure the issue. Regardless I am going to continue on until I fix this. Did not spend $46k (Canadian) to have a vehicle that shakes more than my 98 4Runner did.

Thanks,
Mike.
 
Take this for what it's worth, but when I bought my 10 used it had a very inconsistent imbalance. Sometimes there, sometimes not. Had it rebalanced twice but same shit.

When I put on my 2" lift it all went away. Nothing even remotely close in any situation.
 
Well this is interesting... So my friend works at a local tire shop and I was talking to him about this. Telling him how my tech at work (BMW) balanced the wheels already. He said he wants to bring it by his shop and give it a shot himself and see what happens. I said ok no problem and decided to let him try. He apparently used a special Toyota hub adapter and a "Haweka" mount. Just drove the truck back home after work for about 10 mins on the highway and.... smooth as glass... WHAT? I don't know if our wheels/tire etc are too sensitive for the standard cone adapter or what but I can tell you this thing rides perfect at the moment. Im scared I'm going to post this and go out and drive tomorrow to work and its back LOL. I will let you guys know over the next few days if I get any vibes but there wasn't any shake at all today. I am so happy that I can finally start to enjoy my 4Runner and this is not a front end issue with 600kms on the clock. Still going to lift it regardless LOL.

-Mike.
 
Well this is interesting... So my friend works at a local tire shop and I was talking to him about this. Telling him how my tech at work (BMW) balanced the wheels already. He said he wants to bring it by his shop and give it a shot himself and see what happens. I said ok no problem and decided to let him try. He apparently used a special Toyota hub adapter and a "Haweka" mount. Just drove the truck back home after work for about 10 mins on the highway and.... smooth as glass... WHAT? I don't know if our wheels/tire etc are too sensitive for the standard cone adapter or what but I can tell you this thing rides perfect at the moment. Im scared I'm going to post this and go out and drive tomorrow to work and its back LOL. I will let you guys know over the next few days if I get any vibes but there wasn't any shake at all today. I am so happy that I can finally start to enjoy my 4Runner and this is not a front end issue with 600kms on the clock. Still going to lift it regardless LOL.

-Mike.
Many tire places don't have cones to properly fit the Toyota 106.1mm bore and will never be able to provide consistently balanced wheels. The Haweka adapter centers on the lugs and provides a pretty fool proof centering of the wheel on the balancer. IIRC, Toyota requires dealerships to have and use these, though techs often do not use them.

FYI, you'll still get flat spot balance issues depending on tire model, inflation, temperature, etc. so discount any vibes until you have 15+ miles at high speed.
 
Well this is interesting... So my friend works at a local tire shop and I was talking to him about this. Telling him how my tech at work (BMW) balanced the wheels already. He said he wants to bring it by his shop and give it a shot himself and see what happens. I said ok no problem and decided to let him try. He apparently used a special Toyota hub adapter and a "Haweka" mount. Just drove the truck back home after work for about 10 mins on the highway and.... smooth as glass... WHAT? I don't know if our wheels/tire etc are too sensitive for the standard cone adapter or what but I can tell you this thing rides perfect at the moment. Im scared I'm going to post this and go out and drive tomorrow to work and its back LOL. I will let you guys know over the next few days if I get any vibes but there wasn't any shake at all today. I am so happy that I can finally start to enjoy my 4Runner and this is not a front end issue with 600kms on the clock. Still going to lift it regardless LOL.

-Mike.

Any updates on this? Still smooth as glass? Would you mind PM-ing me the shop and who to talk to if I end up with this issue on my hopefully soon to be purchased 4runner? Thanks! :cheers:
 
Similar issue, more pronounced after UCA Tuff Country 4 inch lift

In speaking to my off road vehicle specialist he is convinced without a complete tear down that it is a driveline pinion angle, alignment or phasing issue. I recently had a buddy take pictures of his harmonic balancer connection to the driveline. I marked up the pictures of his stock and my new lifted angles. Rear end has 2.25 inch lifting springs and a strut relocation bracket (rectangular tube steel). Have a look at how healthy the yoke alignment is on the stock (left) and my modified, crowded, vibrating angle (right). Both vehicles were flat, no p brake, no load on rear end. Any thoughts my T4R brothers and sisters? Note: I understand this isn't perfect picturing on either side but it makes me really wonder about the pinion angle and my issues...
 

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Were you able to find a solution

I’m having the same issue. I wonder if adjustable rear UCA’s will help.
 
2013 SR5 4x4 - 61K miles.

Installed 5100s all around with front at 1.75" and 1" cornfed spacer in rear. Drove around 30 miles and noticed a huge improvement over squishy stock SR5 suspension. No vibrations or other post lift issues noticed.

A few days later I upgraded to P285/70R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3w's. I noticed an improvement in ride quality over E rated 275/70R17 KO2s. The Falkens balanced out well with no issues or vibrations noticed. I drove another 20 miles or so miles without noticing any issues.

A few days later I went to the Toyota dealer for an alignment, knowing I needed one after the lift. The dream team at said dealership took 2+ hours on my alignment. The advisor came back saying it "kicked their butts" and 1.6 caster was the best they could do after 2 alignments with a test drive in between. I immediately noticed my steering wheel was now annoyingly off centered to the right, but no vibrations or other ride quality issues observed.

I then handed the vehicle back to my wife, confident all was well with her vehicle, pending a better alignment to correct caster and centering of steering wheel.

A few days later I drive the vehicle again. I notice nothing odd at first other than the steering wheel being off centered. After 20 or so miles I start noticing a vibration in my driver seat and floor board. The wannna-be mechanic in me starts trying to determine cause. It starts around 30mph and stays the same up to our top speed of 80mph. The steering wheel never shakes, but I feel an almost constant "hop" in my booty and shoes. It's not bad or terrible, but to me.. obvious and noticeable. Almost like constantly driving over a portion of pot hole infested bumpy roads, but we are not and I've observed the same vibration above 30mph in many different road terrains.

My wife says she doesn't feel anything, other than the road. I also rode in the passenger seat, noticing the same annoying "hop" in my butt and shoes.

My instinct tells me it's something towards the rear of the vehicle. I double checked wheel and suspension torque. I was already aware of an existing slight vibration when braking, but this new vibration doesnt seem to be brake related. I also noticed my tie rod end bushings/boot/bellows are now wet with obvious grease. I did not touch them when installing the lift so I attribute this to the questionable dealer alignment, maybe the dream team didn't use two wrenches to adjust toe?

I want to suspect it is drive line related. So last night I busted out the grease gun. First time lubing the driveline, as I have just asked the dealer to do it during oil changes. All zerks seemed to take an appropriate amount of pumps; excect for the first spider yoke closest to the front of the vehicle. It immediately started expelling gray looking grease, while the other spiders took a few pumps before expelling black grease. Anywho, the chassis lube didn't seem to change the vibration.

Anyone have any ideas? I know I still need to get a better alignment and I guess it wouldn't hurt to have the tire balance checked again.

Get your money back and find another shop to perform an alignment properly.
 
...I went to the Toyota dealer for an alignment, knowing I needed one after the lift. The dream team at said dealership took 2+ hours on my alignment. The advisor came back saying it "kicked their butts" and 1.6 caster was the best they could do after 2 alignments with a test drive in between. I immediately noticed my steering wheel was now annoyingly off centered to the right, but no vibrations or other ride quality issues observed.

I would have asked to talk to a manger. All it takes to center the wheel is loosening 2 jam nuts and adjusting the inner tie rod in equal but opposite amounts left to right. If they didn't get that right, I doubt they could properly adjust the 4 camber adjusters to get your caster correct.
 

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