Vibration when braking

[benjamin247]

Has anyone experience vibration felt on steering wheel when braking? This is more noticeable when braking from higher speeds.
I'm not sure if this is related, but I am also hearing a clanking noise when I am going over a speed bump or on a turn such as a freeway exit. I used to hear it occasionally, but now it's pretty often.

I put on a 2" suspension lift a year and a half ago and haven't had any issues. Also recently did a tire rotation.

 

[AntleredRuin]

warped rotors?

 

[JayRolla]

warped rotors?

The main cause of vibration during braking is an uneven layer of pad material on the rotor. Warped rotors is pretty much an old mechanic myth. They say they are warped. You get them resurfaced and they work fine. Its actually the material on the rotor that is removed making them not vibrate anymore.

To the OP look into replacing your pads and rotors with quality OEM parts. Also look into the tundra brake upgrade.

 

[AntleredRuin]

The main cause of vibration during braking is an uneven layer of pad material on the rotor. Warped rotors is pretty much an old mechanic myth. They say they are warped. You get them resurfaced and they work fine. Its actually the material on the rotor that is removed making them not vibrate anymore.

To the OP look into replacing your pads and rotors with quality OEM parts. Also look into the tundra brake upgrade.

Haha yeah true, I was just too lazy to say all that.
A lot of places might not resurface if there's not enough meat left on the rotor, and new rotors don't cost that much more than resurfacing existing ones. Plus you get a warranty and the peace of mind that you didn't leave your braking ability to the 17 yo desk jockey at the parts house.

 

[JayRolla]

Haha yeah true, I was just too lazy to say all that.
A lot of places might not resurface if there's not enough meat left on the rotor, and new rotors don't cost that much more than resurfacing existing ones. Plus you get a warranty and the peace of mind that you didn't leave your braking ability to the 17 yo desk jockey at the parts house.

They recommend turning new rotors sometimes in performance applications. My piece of mind comes when using OEM parts that are quality. Turning OEM rotors is about $10-$15 at my local brake shop. I believe OEM rotors are around $80 each.

Ive ran quite a few pads/rotors and OEM have been by far the best.

 

[12BYotaFan]

-Currently saving for tacoma brake upgrade

-resurfaced rotors and replaced pads in early June.

-Had front wheel bearings replaced by a toyota shop early august.

Now have a very noticeable vibration through the front end when braking.

Had to replace my drivers side front diff seal and reboot my inboard passenger side cv this past weekend.

Now the vibration is still present, but significantly diminished.

The 4 bolts for the LBJ -> Spindle were tight and loc-tited when I removed them, cleaned them off, inspected them and reapplied threadlocker before torquing to 53 ftlb (listed as torque spec in the cv replacement thread I followed).

So, having done nothing to the brakes, my vibration is significantly diminished, but not gone.

Upper ball joint boot was not ripped, lower ball joint boot wasnt ripped or showing signs of leaking (replaced lbj with moog replacements last summer), both castle nuts were in place and cotter pins were present.

Am at a loss.

 

[BoomSticks]

"Warped rotors" is a misnomer.

It's pad material that gets deposited on the rotor because of intense heat from hard braking, and then the pad sitting in one spot as it cools. When the wheel starts moving again, pad material breaks off and gets left behind.

The next time you brake, you feel the uneven surface.

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

 

[tvpierce]

Has anyone experience vibration felt on steering wheel when braking? This is more noticeable when braking from higher speeds.
I'm not sure if this is related, but I am also hearing a clanking noise when I am going over a speed bump or on a turn such as a freeway exit. I used to hear it occasionally, but now it's pretty often.

I put on a 2" suspension lift a year and a half ago and haven't had any issues. Also recently did a tire rotation.

In general, if you feel the vibration in your brake pedal, that's rotor high spots (mis-diagnosed as "warped rotors" mentioned above)

If you're feeling the vibration in the steering wheel, that's most likely steering/suspension parts (ie: tie rod ends, ball joints, bushings, etc.). These parts get loaded up under braking, and cause an oscillation. If you're feeling it in the wheel, this is most likely your problem.

 

[benjamin247]

In general, if you feel the vibration in your brake pedal, that's rotor high spots (mis-diagnosed as "warped rotors" mentioned above)

If you're feeling the vibration in the steering wheel, that's most likely steering/suspension parts (ie: tie rod ends, ball joints, bushings, etc.). These parts get loaded up under braking, and cause an oscillation. If you're feeling it in the wheel, this is most likely your problem.

Yep...no vibration on the brake pedal. All vibration found in the steering wheel.

 

[MarkamisPrime]

Yep...no vibration on the brake pedal. All vibration found in the steering wheel.

I've been doing suspension and brake work for a while now and I've literally never heard of warped rotors or drums only giving you vibration in the pedal
I've experienced both pedal and steering wheel vibrations and rule of thumb is steering wheel front brakes brake pedal is rear brakes
The clunk could be related but unless your tie rods are about to fall off or your rack bushings being completely gone. I don't see how suspension would cause your vibration under braking only.
If your vibration is all the time then I could see how suspension could be the case but if it's just under braking than I would say warped rotors OR you could try removing your pads and rubbing them on concrete so they get flat again.
Sounds dumb I know but trust me it works.
Not asphalt or crazy rocky rough concrete but some smoother stuff like a sidewalk.
Vibration under braking especially from hwy speeds is very common and many people over think it. Like our friend above who's done everything but check his brakes.
Just cause you just had brake work done doesn't mean it can't happen. Especially if you had both pads and rotors replaced and didn't do the proper break in process.

 

[tvpierce]

I've been doing suspension and brake work for a while now and I've literally never heard of warped rotors or drums only giving you vibration in the pedal
I've experienced both pedal and steering wheel vibrations and rule of thumb is steering wheel front brakes brake pedal is rear brakes
The clunk could be related but unless your tie rods are about to fall off or your rack bushings being completely gone. I don't see how suspension would cause your vibration under braking only.
If your vibration is all the time then I could see how suspension could be the case but if it's just under braking than I would say warped rotors OR you could try removing your pads and rubbing them on concrete so they get flat again.
Sounds dumb I know but trust me it works.
Not asphalt or crazy rocky rough concrete but some smoother stuff like a sidewalk.
Vibration under braking especially from hwy speeds is very common and many people over think it. Like our friend above who's done everything but check his brakes.
Just cause you just had brake work done doesn't mean it can't happen. Especially if you had both pads and rotors replaced and didn't do the proper break in process.

I don't mean to be confrontational, but we appear to have had different experiences.
I'm a newb to T4R.org, but I've been doing suspension & brake work on vehicles for a while too (25+ years).

You're correct about vibration in the pedal-only... I wasn't clear in my description.
In my experience, the causes of vibration under braking conditions have been the following:

When applying brakes, vibration is felt in steering wheel only = suspension/steering (ball joint, tie rod end, control arm bushing)

When applying brakes, vibration is felt in steering wheel AND brake pedal pulse = front brakes (or rear if they are disk brakes -- not applicable on T4R)

I've never experienced pedal pulse with drum brakes. I'm not saying it can't happen... just that I've never experienced it.

I'm not an expert... just relaying what I've experienced personally, and what I've learned from others who are more knowledgeable than me.

 

[thegipper]

-Currently saving for tacoma brake upgrade

-resurfaced rotors and replaced pads in early June.

-Had front wheel bearings replaced by a toyota shop early august.

Now have a very noticeable vibration through the front end when braking.

Had to replace my drivers side front diff seal and reboot my inboard passenger side cv this past weekend.

Now the vibration is still present, but significantly diminished.

The 4 bolts for the LBJ -> Spindle were tight and loc-tited when I removed them, cleaned them off, inspected them and reapplied threadlocker before torquing to 53 ftlb (listed as torque spec in the cv replacement thread I followed).

So, having done nothing to the brakes, my vibration is significantly diminished, but not gone.

Upper ball joint boot was not ripped, lower ball joint boot wasnt ripped or showing signs of leaking (replaced lbj with moog replacements last summer), both castle nuts were in place and cotter pins were present.

Am at a loss.

I would inspect that POS Moog LBJ that you replaced last summer. Anything other than OEM LBJ's are going to fail and it usually doesn't take long. Inspect the LBJ's, especially that Moog one as they are totally worthless and may be failing already.

 

[catrains]

Yep...no vibration on the brake pedal. All vibration found in the steering wheel.

this being a 1997 ? I would check the front calipers for binding. can be the pins/cal piston etc...

I have had this occur on many vehicles when they get this old.

if the caliper is binding do a short drive and very carefully touch the rotors and compare for the temp. the odd hot one is the problem.

another failure of many including techs is you must open the caliper bleed screw first then using a C clamp push the caliper fully back slowly. this removes contaminated fluid. the bad fluid usually causes caliper piston to bind.

 

[MarkamisPrime]

I don't mean to be confrontational, but we appear to have had different experiences.
I'm a newb to T4R.org, but I've been doing suspension & brake work on vehicles for a while too (25+ years).

I've never experienced pedal pulse with drum brakes. I'm not saying it can't happen... just that I've never experienced it.

I'm not an expert... just relaying what I've experienced personally, and what I've learned from others who are more knowledgeable than me.

That's crazy I've had to cut brand new drums and rotors cause of a bad cast causing vibrations.

But the op should just take the truck to a qualified shop that offers a free brake/suspension check
Get there quote and buy he parts and do the work yourself.

 

[Carova Colton]

Braking vibration

I have read through this forum and still have a vibration problem. I replaced both front rotors, calipers and brake pads with premiums. Still have braking vibration!!!! No ABS light but, can it be a sensor? I started having problems after traversing some deep water. I don't see any damage to tie rods or bushings. Please help.

 

[Carova Colton]

Braking vibration

Forgot to say that I have a 97 SR5. I did have some caliper leakage of brake fluid. Thought I had the caliper binding so only one side was compressing properly. After replacing everything, the vibration is still there and violent coming down from high speeds. Thanks

 

[12BYotaFan]

I would inspect that POS Moog LBJ that you replaced last summer. Anything other than OEM LBJ's are going to fail and it usually doesn't take long. Inspect the LBJ's, especially that Moog one as they are totally worthless and may be failing already.

I didnt realize people have had issues with moog parts here.

I just had the front end all apart. This past weekend. The boots are not torn/ripped and I didnt see any grease around them either.

When lining up the LBJ and spindle, I didnt notice any perceivable vertical play in the LBJ either.

 

[thegipper]

It has been well documented that all aftermarket LBJ's are garbage including moog on these trucks. It take a lot of force to properly check for play in a LBJ. I'd check it again...

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[tvpierce]

I have read through this forum and still have a vibration problem. I replaced both front rotors, calipers and brake pads with premiums. Still have braking vibration!!!! No ABS light but, can it be a sensor? I started having problems after traversing some deep water. I don't see any damage to tie rods or bushings. Please help.

Vibration is felt in the wheel? No pulsing at the pedal?

 

[alexanderofyork]

Could it be front shocks Bushing?

I've had the shaking for more than a year through replacement of all the brake parts. I've heard all of these same suggestions but one different explanation I was told by a mechanic was that it's the rubber bushing on top of front struts.

Looking at the parts diagram though it seems to me that it's more likely the ball joints on the upper control arm. Visual inspection does not me any clues though.