Vibrations/humming 60mph+

[euser]

I have a 2002 Limited 4Runner 2wd with 199,500 miles on it. It has a pretty bad vibration and humming sound that increases intensity with speed. I becomes noticeable around 60-65. It feels and souds like im driving over those ripple strips on the side of the highway. All hardware is original besides changes listed:

U-joints and rear yolk have been replaced
has new bilstein shocks all around
just had the tires road force balanced with the proper mount and 3 read 5psi 1 reads 6psi.

Any ideas what could be causing this. I hate feeling like im driving on the shoulder when most my driving is highway speeds.

There also seems to be a power steering leak. (Ill attach poctures)

 

[Slowgoat]

Hub/bearing going bad?? I'm guessing, but it could be it.

Here is a quote from 2011, [MENTION=56046]toyotatech84[/MENTION] :

"easy way to see if its a bearing noise is set the cruise to hear the noise then slowly move left and right in your lane the noise should come and go. if the noise goes away and comes back as you change lanes its a bearing issue.

Have you tried rotating tires front to back to see if it is a tire issue?"


Is it a grinding or more of a humming?

Good luck!!

 

[euser]

Hub/bearing going bad?? I'm guessing, but it could be it.

Here is a quote from 2011, [MENTION=56046]toyotatech84[/MENTION] :

"easy way to see if its a bearing noise is set the cruise to hear the noise then slowly move left and right in your lane the noise should come and go. if the noise goes away and comes back as you change lanes its a bearing issue.

Have you tried rotating tires front to back to see if it is a tire issue?"


Is it a grinding or more of a humming?

Good luck!!

They rotated the tires today with the road force balance. I thought it may be bearings, but i didnt find anything talking about vibrations with the bearings. It turns fine at slow speeds, but ill probably go test out the swerving thing now. It sounds exactly like youre driving over the shoulder strips on the highway.

 

[Slowgoat]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/72998-rumble-strip-transmission-issue.html

Wondering if it could be a torque converter after using my Google Fu. . . . .

 

[euser]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/72998-rumble-strip-transmission-issue.html

Wondering if it could be a torque converter after using my Google Fu. . . . .

If it was a drive train issue it would only do it under load, correct? It vibrates even when i switch to neutral and coast. Im no mechanic, i just watch youtube videos and follow the haynes manual so ive assumed drivetrain components arent the issue.

 

[Slowgoat]

If it was a drive train issue it would only do it under load, correct? It vibrates even when i switch to neutral and coast. Im no mechanic, i just watch youtube videos and follow the haynes manual so ive assumed drivetrain components arent the issue.

Yes, sounds reasonable.



Hope you get it sorted!

 

[euser]

I jacked up the car and shook the wheels at the 12 and 6 position. The front didnt have any play, but if i spin them they stop pretty damn quick. Is that normal? Also, the rear wheels had play when i shook them. I could hear some clicking as they rocked back and forth. Could this cause the vibration at higher speeds, and is that indicative of the wheel bearing?

 

[euser]

Also, i had it jacked up and chocked the front tires and put it in gear. I accelerated a little bit and got some bad vibration, im not sure if this is normal with no load or attributed to wheel bearings? or some other issue with the rear. Id imagine a well balanced and properly funcing rear end wouldnt vibrate like crazy, but like i said, im no mechanic.

 

[StreetCreeper]

I have a 2002 Limited 4Runner 2wd with 199,500 miles on it. It has a pretty bad vibration and humming sound that increases intensity with speed. I becomes noticeable around 60-65. It feels and souds like im driving over those ripple strips on the side of the highway. All hardware is original besides changes listed:

U-joints and rear yolk have been replaced
has new bilstein shocks all around
just had the tires road force balanced with the proper mount and 3 read 5psi 1 reads 6psi.

Any ideas what could be causing this. I hate feeling like im driving on the shoulder when most my driving is highway speeds.

There also seems to be a power steering leak. (Ill attach poctures)

Holy crap that rack! Did you pull it from the bottom of the ocean?

Of course I'm from CA so I'm not even sure what color rust is...

 

[euser]

Holy crap that rack! Did you pull it from the bottom of the ocean?

Of course I'm from CA so I'm not even sure what color rust is...

Thats not rust, its tons of caked on power steering fluid and possibly oil from before i changed the valve covers. I took the skid plates off and covered it all in degreaser and cleaned it today. Im not sure exactly whats leaking, but it looks like its coming from the square part on the top with the black disc. I have to top off the power steering fluid fairly often. It actually started off its life in california (so it has the two o2 sensors) and has since lived in texas, south carolina, virginia, rhode island, florida, new mexico, and nevada.

 

[mtbtim]

Thats not rust, its tons of caked on power steering fluid and possibly oil from before i changed the valve covers. I took the skid plates off and covered it all in degreaser and cleaned it today. Im not sure exactly whats leaking, but it looks like its coming from the square part on the top with the black disc. I have to top off the power steering fluid fairly often. It actually started off its life in california (so it has the two o2 sensors) and has since lived in texas, south carolina, virginia, rhode island, florida, new mexico, and nevada.

Yeah, I'd say that's a pretty significant power steering leak. I wonder if it's the pinion valve assembly causing the leak. I looked up the schematic on Camelback Toyota's website. Here's the link:
https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...siteid=214329&vehicleid=84047&diagram=8414260

It looks like in the schematic that there's one or more seals, o-rings, or washers in that assembly and maybe one of them is causing the leak.

 

[JBurt]

Could be your rear driveshaft. I had mine out to replace au joint and drove it add a fwd vehicle for a few days and it was smooth as butter. Put the drive shaft back in and the vibration is back.

 

[euser]

Could be your rear driveshaft. I had mine out to replace au joint and drove it add a fwd vehicle for a few days and it was smooth as butter. Put the drive shaft back in and the vibration is back.

I originally thought that, but ive replaced the ujoints, then the rear yolk broke so i had it brought in to make sure the drive shaft wasnt damaged and balanced, but it still vibrates. Because of the play in the rear wheels, i think im going to go with bad bearings. Ill need to call up the stealership and see what the hit will be. I dont have a press to do it myself.

 

[JBurt]

If you've got 4wd it's worth it to pull the shaft and drive with the front one. I replaced my u joints and slip yoke and it still vibrated.

It could be something in your rear axle. If you do everything but the press work it should run 4 to 5 hundred. More at the dealership. Make sure you take the measurements for the inner seal and the abs exciter ring to the shop. The shop I took mine to screwed that up.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I jacked up the car and shook the wheels at the 12 and 6 position. The front didnt have any play, but if i spin them they stop pretty damn quick. Is that normal? Also, the rear wheels had play when i shook them. I could hear some clicking as they rocked back and forth. Could this cause the vibration at higher speeds, and is that indicative of the wheel bearing?

If you pushed at the 12 and 6 oclock position and got any play in the rear then the bearings are bad. Clicking noise is normal as long as its one click when rotating the wheel in either direction.

 

[euser]

Well im dropping it off at the firestone on our base for a complete vehicle inspection and diagnosis tomorrow morning, so we'll see what the deal is. The most expensive quote (for the front Im assuming) was 350 for the wheel. Im fairly sure the rear is the issue. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Also, i had it jacked up and chocked the front tires and put it in gear. I accelerated a little bit and got some bad vibration, im not sure if this is normal with no load or attributed to wheel bearings? or some other issue with the rear. Id imagine a well balanced and properly funcing rear end wouldnt vibrate like crazy, but like i said, im no mechanic.

Not normal. It's something with your drive shaft or axle. My money's on the driveshaft. Remove it and use 4wd like others suggested. You need to narrow it down before you ask for a shop to do it. If the vibration is still there, it's an axle or tire issue. If it goes away, you found your problem. Visit a junkyard and get a used one (more reliable than trying to rebuild it) and your worries are over.

 

[euser]

Not normal. It's something with your drive shaft or axle. My money's on the driveshaft. Remove it and use 4wd like others suggested. You need to narrow it down before you ask for a shop to do it. If the vibration is still there, it's an axle or tire issue. If it goes away, you found your problem. Visit a junkyard and get a used one (more reliable than trying to rebuild it) and your worries are over.

My 4runner is 2wd so i cant run that test. However, i have had the driveshaft removed and balanced after the ujoint broke and they said it was fine. The vibration isnt as bad after the new ujoints and road force balance so i think i had a combination of crap contributing to the issue. The wheels have play when pushed at 12 and 6 so im assuming the bearings need to be replaced regardless. I guess ill find out in a few days.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

My 4runner is 2wd so i cant run that test. However, i have had the driveshaft removed and balanced after the ujoint broke and they said it was fine. The vibration isnt as bad after the new ujoints and road force balance so i think i had a combination of crap contributing to the issue. The wheels have play when pushed at 12 and 6 so im assuming the bearings need to be replaced regardless. I guess ill find out in a few days.

No play allowed. Bad bearings. End of story. Don't let them sell you anything more than you need. It's going to be expensive enough as it is. Hopefully they know what they are doing with the bearing replacement because there's a plethora of things that need to be done to complete that job successfully. See the many posts about rear axle seals.

 

[euser]

Apparently the bearings are fine. They said the rear differential is going out. It's not leaking fluid, but after checking the ujoints, bearings, and drive train then taking it for a test drive themechanic is convicted it's the rear diff.