Vibrations/humming 60mph+
- Thread starter euser
- Start date
I hope that is not them trying to sell you on more expensive work to A hope you will not repair or B Fix the Diff then add wheel bearing for good measure. I agree with other post no play should be felt on the 12 and 6 position I have done many solid rear axle bearings on Crown Vic's and good bearings no movement bad bearings will be noticeable. I know that the bearing are pressed on to the axle not into the housing but the principle remains the same.
Jack up the rear and use a dial indicator or some type of fixable to the body measuring device and see how much it moves . I want to say anything more than 3-4 mm is too much 3/8 to 1/2inch or 10-13mm is way out. I have seen that bad before. I hope this helps out.
Jack up the rear and use a dial indicator or some type of fixable to the body measuring device and see how much it moves . I want to say anything more than 3-4 mm is too much 3/8 to 1/2inch or 10-13mm is way out. I have seen that bad before. I hope this helps out.
PWD4R
New member
TBH it makes some sense it's the rear diff because in my parents mountaineer it whines the faster you go and you notice it around 55 and up. It does sound like you're driving on ripple strips and it's decently loud. They've had that issue for like 5 years in it though lol
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So, I was referred to a shop specializing in drive line stuff. They found one of the u-joints to have a manufacturing defect and they are currently replacing it then testing for further vibrations. Hopefully it's just my 2 month old u-joint and not the rear diff. Everyone around here has seemed very reasonable and not just trying to take my money.
Alright, so they switched out the defective u-joint for free and I can now travel at 75 without feeling like I'm in a massage chair. It still vibrates at 80+ thought. I can't remember how it handled back when it was new, but does anyone's current rig vibrate at speeds like that or do I still have an issue? My 2012 is super smooth, but I figure 200k miles and 15 years of wear and technology may make it so it will never be that smooth.
PWD4R
New member
I have never driven mind over 70 but as long as you can go normal speed without it annoying you I'd say at least 80% of the issue is fixed
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I agree. I just live in the desert out west where speedlimits are 75-80. It struggles to go that fast in the hills without a SC though anyways. I just need it to hang on until I finish flight school and can find a replacement. I have got it up to 105 once out on a lake bed, it wasn't a very happy 4runner lol.
PWD4R
New member
Lol there is a road near me with the speed limit of 85. I don't use that road...
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thegipper
New member
Have you checked the fluid or magnetic drain plug in the rear diff? The fluid would most likely show signs if the differential was on its way out. Especially if you find metal shavings on the magnetic drain. I would drain the fluid, inspect and refill. It is cheap and could possibly rule out or confirm the diff. It may even fix the problem if the fluid level is just low or very old.
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PWD4R
New member
All of what you said makes sense but even if your diff is in good condition you'll have metal shavings. Even after 30k miles you'll get them.
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I haven't heard of that, but my vibration did start back up again. I took it to a shop specializing in drive line stuff and they told me the vibration was from all sorts of **** up after the u-joints broke. The front yoke was damaged, they had to repair the teeth in the transmission, and the driveshaft was way off balance. Its been running perfectly since I got it repaired.
12BYotaFan
New member
So, first off, glad you got your issues figured out.
On a related note, I believe my front wheel bearings are going out. I was trying to start my own thread, but i dont have the post count to do so.
I have s roaring noise, speed dependent, but not engine speed dependent (have coasted in neutral) that seems to be coming from my front end.
I believe its both wheel bearings, as driving in a straight line, and slowly turning one way or the other doesnt change the noise to any perceptible degree. My understanding is that if it were one side or the other, turning away from that side would seat the bearing into the race, and the noise would diminish somewhat.
Stopped by my local dealership, they quoted me over $1300 for parts and labor.
I dont have a press, but I also dont have $1300 to sink into the front end of my truck atm... unless i absolutely need to. So, im planning to buy the parts, yank the spindles, and pay the shop to press th old bearings out and new ones in...
Ive got the basic idea down for pulling the spindles, having recently swapped both cv axles, but havent been able to find a good write up on any specifics...
Any help here? Also, going to the dealer parts counter tomorrow to verify, but I shouldnt need new hubs, right? The bearing and hub should be pressedout out of the spindle, the bearing removed from the hub, the new bearing packed, then pressed onto the original hub, then the hub and bearing pressed back into the spindle?
'99 sr5, 5vzfe motor, auto, 4wd.
On a related note, I believe my front wheel bearings are going out. I was trying to start my own thread, but i dont have the post count to do so.
I have s roaring noise, speed dependent, but not engine speed dependent (have coasted in neutral) that seems to be coming from my front end.
I believe its both wheel bearings, as driving in a straight line, and slowly turning one way or the other doesnt change the noise to any perceptible degree. My understanding is that if it were one side or the other, turning away from that side would seat the bearing into the race, and the noise would diminish somewhat.
Stopped by my local dealership, they quoted me over $1300 for parts and labor.
I dont have a press, but I also dont have $1300 to sink into the front end of my truck atm... unless i absolutely need to. So, im planning to buy the parts, yank the spindles, and pay the shop to press th old bearings out and new ones in...
Ive got the basic idea down for pulling the spindles, having recently swapped both cv axles, but havent been able to find a good write up on any specifics...
Any help here? Also, going to the dealer parts counter tomorrow to verify, but I shouldnt need new hubs, right? The bearing and hub should be pressedout out of the spindle, the bearing removed from the hub, the new bearing packed, then pressed onto the original hub, then the hub and bearing pressed back into the spindle?
'99 sr5, 5vzfe motor, auto, 4wd.
