Video of what a failed rear pinion bearing sounds like

twa318

Member
Future reference for anyone who is having the same problem, here is a video I took of what it sounds like when the rear pinion bearing has failed.

https://streamable.com/i9nhjl

You can hear it best last 15 seconds of the video, it was loudest when coasting to to a stop from 25mph

Just got a remanned differential from East Coast Gear Service put in and it’s now whisper quiet.

Another ECGS success story
 
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Interesting thanks for posting that. My 2WD makes a whirring sound at 50 - 60mph, it seems to need to warm up a little bit for it to happen. I am hoping it is a wheel bearing or maybe even the tyres as it doesn't seem to change tone whether at constant speed or on the over-run decelerating.
 
After I tried replacing leaky pinion seal, I overtightened the bolt and after a long trip and pulling into my drive, I hear the wrrerrchunkachinkaclinkwirrrrchunkachunkaclink.
I had the dealer do mine.. didn't have a garage at the time and cost about $2200
 
I am trying to figure out a similar-ish noise on my 04 4Runner, hoping its one of the bearings as it noise pretty much goes away when turning to the right and taking weight off the right side of the vehicle.
 
I am trying to figure out a similar-ish noise on my 04 4Runner, hoping its one of the bearings as it noise pretty much goes away when turning to the right and taking weight off the right side of the vehicle.

Could you find a wide open area and knock it into Neutral and see if the noise remains?
 
Sure can, I live out in the country so empty roads for days. What am I expecting if the noise goes away while in neutral, does that mean it's something inside the trans?

I have a hunch if it's just as noisy in neutral it's a bearing, you've already done the test of loading up each side. In neutral I think the diff and prop shaft are still turning but not under any drag from the gearbox so if the noise is identical it seems like it wouldn't be the diff. I think so, anyway!
 
I have a hunch if it's just as noisy in neutral it's a bearing, you've already done the test of loading up each side. In neutral I think the diff and prop shaft are still turning but not under any drag from the gearbox so if the noise is identical it seems like it wouldn't be the diff. I think so, anyway!

Awesome idea to try, will try it tonight when I get home. Thanks!
 
I'm afraid so.

:D

LOL, good catch and reply, bad proofreading by me.

As for the later questions, a wheel bearing will generally quiet down when you turn hard in the direction of the bad side as it releases some weight off the bearing. Not 100% but can be helpful. It seems yours fits that criteria. Of course, I still replaced the wrong side on mine so it ended up with 2 new front wheel bearings. :D

I've only seen one diff bearing go bad and that was on my son's ranger. It leaked out all the gear oil and locked up. The pumpkin had a small rust hole in it if I remember correctly.
 
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Let us know, here's hoping it gives you a clue and it turns out to be something cheap and easy!

To update everyone... while I had to car in for an alignment at a local independent shop I trust asked them to look at the noise... after they test drove it, put it on the lift and did some diag they told me that the rear differential needs to be replaced. Apparently the noise is coming from the differential itself however they did not open it to get a close look as it was close to end of day, but he was pretty sure it needed a new diff. He quoted me $2500 including a new axle, diff and the labor to replace it however I want to do this on a budget. Reading up seems East Coast Gear Supply seems to be the one to go with so I am going to email them see what kind of price we are talking about for a new diff. Never replaced the diff, however seems take axles out, drop the driveshaft, some swearing trying to get stuck bolts out, take way too much time finding dropped tools etc. Not sure yet which way I will go, however will see what ECGS has to say.

I will start a whole new thread once I reach 15 posts to document everyhting.
 
I also tried throwing it in neutral while at speed and could not hear or feel any difference.

Have you jacked it up and tried to rock each wheel?

It does sound like a wheel bearing, if it was the diff I wouldn't expect the neutral test to make the noise stop, although I suppose it could, but at the least the tone of the noise should change as everything that part of the drive-line would be rotating freely.

What's your diff oil age and level?
 
Have you jacked it up and tried to rock each wheel?

It does sound like a wheel bearing, if it was the diff I wouldn't expect the neutral test to make the noise stop, although I suppose it could, but at the least the tone of the noise should change as everything that part of the drive-line would be rotating freely.

What's your diff oil age and level?

Yup, last weekend had the rear end in the air, took both wheels and brake calipers off to only hear the drive line. Either side felt solid, no back / forth or up and down movement on either side and when I spun it by hand it felt OK.

I am pretty sure I can feel the noise lessen when turning right and def no change in noise when throwing it into neutral.

Diff oil I have replaced recently, however the PO hard to say. The PO is a coworker of mine who had the car since it was brand new, but he is not very mechanically inclined and does not remember if the diff fluid has ever been replaced. I will say when I drained it was black and stank to high heaven, however the fluid level was spot on, when I removed the fill plug a small amount started coming out. I have to assume it was never replaced and has 180K on it. I cannot complain too much though, coworker sold me the 4Runner for $500 so I know I will have to do some fixing.
 
That's a lot of dough for what is probably a guess. It's not hard to pull the axles slightly, just can be time consuming especially if in the rust belt. I'd look at videos on it and pull enough to check the bearings and such. Or just get a used axle and call it a day.
 
Luckily this car was purchased new in Texas, and spent all of its life in DFW area, so rust is pretty much nonexistent. I have to educate myself on drum brakes from what I understand those have to come off in order to pull the axle... maybe they do not have to come out all the way just to pull enough to check the axle bearing?
 
I think you may be able to pull it out an inch or two by pulling the nuts off the back of the plate and maybe pulling the caliper. There's also a tip about slicing a groove in the hose bracket so you can pull the hose out without opening the hydraulic system. Check out some seal replacement videos on YT.

If you don't have to touch the emergency brakes, it will save you a headache. They are a pain to work on but there's some good tips for that too.
 
Had a chance to do some digging today... basically slid the whole axle out (without taking off the brake assembly or parking brake stuff) just so I can isolate the axle. To my surprise, there was a little bit of gear oil leaking (very small amount as far as I can tell), the dust shield or axle seal, whatever the correct term is, is in pretty bad condition and there was some what looked like reddish grease... I was worried for a second as there was no play in the bearing, but as soon as I started to rotate the dust shield back and forth, as much as the parking brake cable would allow, it felt very gritty and not smooth at all. I am basically convinced the passenger rear wheel/axle bearing is shot.

Now the dilemma... Looks simple enough for a DIY job, however I do not have the bearing pulling adapter for a Toyota or a 20T press that is on a H-frame. I could get both of these for under $300, plus the bearing (I am partial to Koyo) for about $550. Around where I live (Farmersville, TX) I went to a few independent shops and asked them if I brought them the axle shaft and the bearing if they would press the old one out and the new one in, but all said nope, not a Toyota. Anyone know of any mechanics in the Dallas, TX area that will do this job if I bring them the axle? Not sure who much they charge but anything around the mark of buying the tool and press would be a no brainer for me.

Thanks!
 

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