Violent shaking when braking

nathanroyse said:
Also, i read online now that i have narrowed it down to the drivers side front that it could be the master cylinder that’s messing stuff up... not to sure but sounds like someone else was having a similar problem and fixed it by replacing the MC


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Don't take this the wrong way, but why are you asking for help just to shoot down everyone's helpful suggestions? Are you looking for an echo chamber?
 
Bad Luck said:
Don't take this the wrong way, but why are you asking for help just to shoot down everyone's helpful suggestions? Are you looking for an echo chamber?
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Is there a right way to take that statement? I am very grateful for everyone who has take the time to reply in hopes of helping me fix my issue. I’m also doing my own research too instead of relying on only your guys’ suggestions. I have tried all of the possible solutions above but unfortunately they have not worked.


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nathanroyse said:
Is there a right way to take that statement? I am very grateful for everyone who has take the time to reply in hopes of helping me fix my issue. I’m also doing my own research too instead of relying on only your guys’ suggestions. I have tried all of the possible solutions above but unfortunately they have not worked.


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Try the brake hose. Replace both since it will require a brake bleed.


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19963.4lsr5 said:
Try the brake hose. Replace both since it will require a brake bleed.


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just put on the new hoses. when it’s off the ground the wheel is still hard to spin unless i manually depress the pads at the caliper... i’m thinking that it might not have been the problem and that my master cylinder is bad and not letting the brake fluid return. cause the pistons to hold pressure when the brake is not applied


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nathanroyse said:
just put on the new hoses. when it’s off the ground the wheel is still hard to spin unless i manually depress the pads at the caliper... i’m thinking that it might not have been the problem and that my master cylinder is bad and not letting the brake fluid return. cause the pistons to hold pressure when the brake is not applied


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Where did you get the caliper and what brand is it?

Also if it was the master cylinder I would imagine all of the brakes would not return after they were depressed....why would a master cylinder only affect one wheel?
 
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nathanroyse said:
just put on the new hoses. when it’s off the ground the wheel is still hard to spin unless i manually depress the pads at the caliper... i’m thinking that it might not have been the problem and that my master cylinder is bad and not letting the brake fluid return. cause the pistons to hold pressure when the brake is not applied


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That happens also.......my friend wrecked his motorcycle when the front wheel locked up from a bad MC. I do agree it should effect more than one wheel.


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NJ-4Runner said:
Where did you get the caliper and what brand is it?

Also if it was the master cylinder I would imagine all of the brakes would not return after they were depressed....why would a master cylinder only affect one wheel?
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i got it from autozone. it is duralast. and yeah it would make sense for it to effect all the brakes but it could also be one of those one-off things where it only effects one. and it’s effecting the closest brake to the master cylinder. It would be really really REALLY odd to have the same problem with a new caliper on the same wheel as the prior caliper. leads me to think it’s probably not the caliper but i could totally be wrong. i’m also replacing my CV axle under warranty because it had a little bit of wobble when spinning the wheel. don’t think that’s the problem but better safe than sorry.


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DirtDrift said:
Pull up on the hand brake when going about 30mph and come to a complete stop. If you feel vibration, it's in the rear. Handbrake completely removes front braking from the equation.
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Did you ever try doing what DirtDrift suggested? I may have missed it if you did. This will help you to figure out if its coming from the front or back and narrow down your troubleshooting.
 
nathanroyse said:
i’m also replacing my CV axle under warranty because it had a little bit of wobble when spinning the wheel. don’t think that’s the problem but better safe than sorry.
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There should not be any wobble on the CV axle at all. Are you sure the axle is pushed into the differential and the nut torqued properly?
 
Sparky 97Runner said:
Did you ever try doing what DirtDrift suggested? I may have missed it if you did. This will help you to figure out if its coming from the front or back and narrow down your troubleshooting.
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Yes i did. sorry i forgot to reply. there is no major shake when just the e-brake is pulled. however there has started to be a constant rotational shake when accelerating slowly or decelerating. pushing the petal makes it worse, pulling the brake keeps it the same


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nathanroyse said:
Yes i did. sorry i forgot to reply. there is no major shake when just the e-brake is pulled. however there has started to be a constant rotational shake when accelerating slowly or decelerating. pushing the petal makes it worse, pulling the brake keeps it the same
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That seems to narrow it down to the front and I'd be taking a serious look at that wobbling CV axle. That is not normal and needs to be fixed regardless. Axle problems could definitely cause steering/braking issues.
 
I'm suspecting it's the caliper, here's how to determine 100% if that's the case, depress your brakes so that the wheel becomes hard to turn, i.e. caliper pistons are sticking, caliper pins binding or there's pressure not being released at that wheel, now open the bleeder valve, by doing this you have just release any pressure that may still be going to that caliper, if the wheel turn easily now then it's an issue with the hoses, steel brake lines or master cylinder.

If the wheel is still hard to turn it's for sure the new/rebuilt caliper or pins, etc., replace the caliper/pins and that should solve the dragging issue, which could or could not be the cause of your vibrations.
 
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AuSeeker said:
I'm suspecting it's the caliper, here's how to determine 100% if that's the case, depress your brakes so that the wheel becomes hard to turn, i.e. caliper pistons are sticking, caliper pins binding or there's pressure not being released at that wheel, now open the bleeder valve, by doing this you have just release any pressure that may still be going to that caliper, if the wheel turn easily now then it's an issue with the hoses, steel brake lines or master cylinder.

If the wheel is still hard to turn it's for sure the new/rebuilt caliper or pins, etc., replace the caliper/pins and that should solve the dragging issue, which could or could not be the cause of your vibrations.
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Super good idea! That will confirm it is the caliper.

As others have said getting a bad rebuilt caliper right out of the box can happen. All it takes is for one of those pistons in the caliper to be banged up and the brakes will drag.
 
AuSeeker said:
I'm suspecting it's the caliper, here's how to determine 100% if that's the case, depress your brakes so that the wheel becomes hard to turn, i.e. caliper pistons are sticking, caliper pins binding or there's pressure not being released at that wheel, now open the bleeder valve, by doing this you have just release any pressure that may still be going to that caliper, if the wheel turn easily now then it's an issue with the hoses, steel brake lines or master cylinder.

If the wheel is still hard to turn it's for sure the new/rebuilt caliper or pins, etc., replace the caliper/pins and that should solve the dragging issue, which could or could not be the cause of your vibrations.
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i will give this a try. thanks!


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nathanroyse said:
Recently my 00’ 4Runner SR5 4wd has started to violently shake 90% of the time when braking. It happens at any speed. Just replaced front and rear drums/shoes pads/rotors hoping that it would fix my problem. Nope. i’m running 285/75/16 Ko2s. I have no idea what would cause this because everyone says it’s warped rotors but clearly it is not. I don’t feel any pulsating in the brake petal, the whole dashboard/car shake violently even when slowing down from ~30mph... Any suggestions?


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Get all new (4) calipers for the front wheels. Take to a brake shop for installation and diagnosis.
 
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