Viper Remote Start Adjustment?

aeroneer1

New member
Does anyone have the computer/plug neccessary to adjust the crank on a viper remote start controller in the Denver-Metro area? I stopped by Car Toys in Boulder, and they said it would take an hour, so $100 to adjust it.

I thought that sounded a little steep, to plug something in, and scan over and change crank time.

It works great, but when it gets super cold outside, the current crank time won't start it up.

Or anybody ever had to deal with this?
 
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I have no help for your issue, all I can say is Boulder car toys sucks in my opinion and I would go anywhere else.
 
Does anyone have the computer/plug neccessary to adjust the crank on a viper remote start controller in the Denver-Metro area? I stopped by Car Toys in Boulder, and they said it would take an hour, so $100 to adjust it.

I thought that sounded a little steep, to plug something in, and scan over and change crank time.

It works great, but when it gets super cold outside, the current crank time won't start it up.

Or anybody ever had to deal with this?


You don't need the tool thing to do it, it just makes it easier. You can do it with your remote. I don't remember the exact way but you need the door open and the truck on to enter the programming mode. Look up the programming instructions for your model and it will tell you.
 
You don't need the tool thing to do it, it just makes it easier. You can do it with your remote. I don't remember the exact way but you need the door open and the truck on to enter the programming mode. Look up the programming instructions for your model and it will tell you.

Unless they locked out the remote programming when they installed it.

I have the DEI bit-writer but I'm in NM.
 
You don't need the tool thing to do it, it just makes it easier. You can do it with your remote. I don't remember the exact way but you need the door open and the truck on to enter the programming mode. Look up the programming instructions for your model and it will tell you.

I tried a while back finding the documentation and found it, but it didn't have anything in there to do it. IIRC it said a dealer needed to do it. I'll take another look though.

Unless they locked out the remote programming when they installed it.

I have the DEI bit-writer but I'm in NM.

So you can install with locked remote programming ... So I would be able to do it myself if I had a DEI bit writer?
 
So you can install with locked remote programming ... So I would be able to do it myself if I had a DEI bit writer?

Yes. I would usually lock the programming and lock the remote fob programming as well when I installed them. That way nobody else could program a remote to your vehicle while it was in for service or a detail.

A bit-writer would allow change a whole bunch of things. Honestly, I would just hook up the tach wire and teach the RS the signal. That way you would never have to worry about the starter hanging or it not cranking enough.
 
I worked at that store over a decade ago and I wouldn't give that place a single, solitary dime of my money.
 
Honestly, I would just hook up the tach wire and teach the RS the signal. That way you would never have to worry about the starter hanging or it not cranking enough.

Ya I want to do this, but I don't know how. I called Quality Auto Sound off of Federal, and he said he could do it for like $40, because he had to take dash apart and get to the brain to reprogram it. They are a licensed Viper dealer.

What do you guys think?
 
Ya I want to do this, but I don't know how. I called Quality Auto Sound off of Federal, and he said he could do it for like $40, because he had to take dash apart and get to the brain to reprogram it. They are a licensed Viper dealer.

What do you guys think?

Are you capable of taking apart the dash and then soldering one wire yourself or is the $40 not that bad to you?

You would have to take apart the dash and find the brain and then the tach wire coming off the brain which would probably be taped up. The couple of viper installation manuals I looked at real quick both showed that its a violet/white wire so I would guess viper would keep that same color through all models but you could double check just in case with whatever model you have. Then run that wire through the firewall and then find the Diagnostic plug that is connected to the driver side of the engine, and solder the violet/white wire to the black wire of the diagnostic plug.
 
Are you capable of taking apart the dash and then soldering one wire yourself or is the $40 not that bad to you?

You would have to take apart the dash and find the brain and then the tach wire coming off the brain which would probably be taped up. The couple of viper installation manuals I looked at real quick both showed that its a violet/white wire so I would guess viper would keep that same color through all models but you could double check just in case with whatever model you have. Then run that wire through the firewall and then find the Diagnostic plug that is connected to the driver side of the engine, and solder the violet/white wire to the black wire of the diagnostic plug.

The tach wire can also be found at the ECM behind the passenger side dash. It will be a black or blue wire. Use a volt meter to test. The voltage will move with rpm.
 
Are you capable of taking apart the dash and then soldering one wire yourself or is the $40 not that bad to you?

You would have to take apart the dash and find the brain and then the tach wire coming off the brain which would probably be taped up. The couple of viper installation manuals I looked at real quick both showed that its a violet/white wire so I would guess viper would keep that same color through all models but you could double check just in case with whatever model you have. Then run that wire through the firewall and then find the Diagnostic plug that is connected to the driver side of the engine, and solder the violet/white wire to the black wire of the diagnostic plug.

Ya I'm comfortable taking it apart. I'd rather do it myself actually. I don't wnat some dudes tearing apart my dash without me there anyway.

So starting at page 60 on that document, it's what I need to do?

The tach wire can also be found at the ECM behind the passenger side dash. It will be a black or blue wire. Use a volt meter to test. The voltage will move with rpm.

The tach wire that goes to the brain unit, correct?
 
Ya I'm comfortable taking it apart. I'd rather do it myself actually. I don't wnat some dudes tearing apart my dash without me there anyway.

So starting at page 60 on that document, it's what I need to do?



The tach wire that goes to the brain unit, correct?

Yes the tach wire from the remote start will connect to the tach wire of the ECM which should be one of the colors mentioned earlier.
 
Ya I'm comfortable taking it apart. I'd rather do it myself actually. I don't wnat some dudes tearing apart my dash without me there anyway.

So starting at page 60 on that document, it's what I need to do?



The tach wire that goes to the brain unit, correct?

Yes if you want to adjust the time, but if you are going to hook up the tach wire then that won't be neccesary. I personally think it would be easier to get to the tach wire I mentioned, the black wire at the disgnostic port in the engine bay. It's also where I've seen multiple aftermarket alarm wiring diagrams recommend to connect there. It just seems more work to remove things on the passenger side to get to the ecm.
 
Yes if you want to adjust the time, but if you are going to hook up the tach wire then that won't be neccesary. I personally think it would be easier to get to the tach wire I mentioned, the black wire at the disgnostic port in the engine bay. It's also where I've seen multiple aftermarket alarm wiring diagrams recommend to connect there. It just seems more work to remove things on the passenger side to get to the ecm.

Ya I think I'm going to try to get the rpms hooked up. I'll report back later this week when I get a chance to tear it apart.
 
Yes if you want to adjust the time, but if you are going to hook up the tach wire then that won't be neccesary. I personally think it would be easier to get to the tach wire I mentioned, the black wire at the disgnostic port in the engine bay. It's also where I've seen multiple aftermarket alarm wiring diagrams recommend to connect there. It just seems more work to remove things on the passenger side to get to the ecm.

Zac, thanks a lot for your help.

I'm trying to find the diagnostic wire you're talking about. Is it like the other end of the ODBII? Where exactly is it plugged in, and should I just cut the harness tape opena nd find the black wire, and solder my brain-unit violet wire to it?
 
Zac, thanks a lot for your help.

I'm trying to find the diagnostic wire you're talking about. Is it like the other end of the ODBII? Where exactly is it plugged in, and should I just cut the harness tape opena nd find the black wire, and solder my brain-unit violet wire to it?


<img src="http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/p779/zacforsale/43C7BCC5-0FC7-4C7D-8B3C-788B10711C50_zps3urzgwii.jpg" border="0">

It's the part circled in red. Says diagnosis on top. Take apart the tape on the wires going into it and find the black wire. And yes just cut off off some of the coating of the black wire and solder the tach wire from the brain to it, I think it should be a violet/white wire.
 
Ok so I pulled the brain out, and got the exact model number: 4103XV.

I got the installation guide for that unit. I found the violet/wire that is the tach. input.

I also found the diagnostic wire (obviously and clearly marked).

So from the manual, there are 3 methods registering if the vehicle is running that the remote start can use.

1) Voltage
2) Simulated tach-voltage option
3) Tach.

Then there were two options for setup, 1) just leave it how it is. 2) Use the program button to use learn the tach.

So I followed this procedure to have it learn the tach. I can't tell if the tach is even hooked up, but I went ahead and did the procedure, and it blinked successfully.

So I may have switched something other, but I can't telll until it's actually cold enough to see find out.

I tested it in currenty conditons, and it works great.

So if it's cold and wont start up, then I'll go through the procedure of hooking violet-white wire through firewall to black wire in diagnostic wire (tach signal).

Thanks for your guys help.
 

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