Voltage Drops Out.....

Look, someone's pissed off because I don't agree with them. :smashputer::banana:

I thought I made it clear I don't care if you disagree with me. I'm posting only so that any searchers who land here will know there is another point of view.
 
So forgive me if I ignore your immense résumé and keep doing things the way I have always done them.

If you think an automotive DC generator is clean, you don't deserve your E.E.

All your ever do is repeat your already stated opinion based on what YOU know. So don't bother.

I thought I made it clear I don't care if you disagree with me. I'm posting only so that any searchers who land here will know there is another point of view.

What you've made clear is that you're more interested in proving me wrong and attacking me, than actually knowing the truth of the matter. You're obviously still butthurt over the timing belt thread. :couch2:
 
What you've made clear is that you're more interested in proving me wrong and attacking me, than actually knowing the truth of the matter. You're obviously still butthurt over the timing belt thread. :couch2:

Yeah, I've been ignoring the truth all my life. Such an outdated concept. But keep trying, maybe you'll say something I can believe some day.

But really, why the positive?
 

I thought so. Anyone who has ever worked on car batteries takes the ground off first. If you take the hot off first, you, and your tool, while touching the positive on a negative ground system are at full positive potential of the battery (plus the alternator if car is running), so any contact of you or your tool with any metallic part of the truck will ruin your day. Take the ground off, and you can touch any metal you want while you do it. Then, if you need to, you can also remove the positive and you can still touch any metallic piece because the ground circuit is open. I learned that the hard way when I was about 11.

Similarly, put the hot back first and then the ground.
 
I thought so. Anyone who has ever worked on car batteries takes the ground off first. If you take the hot off first, you, and your tool, while touching the positive on a negative ground system are at full positive potential of the battery (plus the alternator if car is running), so any contact of you or your tool with any metallic part of the truck will ruin your day. Take the ground off, and you can touch any metal you want while you do it. Then, if you need to, you can also remove the positive and you can still touch any metallic piece because the ground circuit is open. I learned that the hard way when I was about 11.

Similarly, put the hot back first and then the ground.

Don't short your tools to ground stupid! Really, what was your point with that comment? You think you're going to demonstrate that I don't know how to turn a wrench? You're sounding more and more like a troll with every post.
 
Don't short your tools to ground stupid! Really, what was your point with that comment? You think you're going to demonstrate that I don't know how to turn a wrench? You're sounding more and more like a troll with every post.

Thanks. You've done that for me.
 
Well... I read everything.
I am not an electrical engineer but first thing who works on a car should know what battery terminal to remove regardless of you going to ground it or not. It is simply a safety precaution.
 
[MENTION=116745]jeremyc74[/MENTION]

Since you're an EE why don't you use some of that cash to buy a 5th gen and go grace them with your presence.

They love engineers who know everything. It's the most fun part of the fifth gen section.

I know personality has nothing to do with ones education but the similarities of your comments and those in recent 5th gen threads are really quite humorous.

Here's a few thread to help acclimate ...
* http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/206722-5th-gen-forum-problem.html
* http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/204322-suggestion-pro-owners.html

I kid; I kid.
 
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[MENTION=116745]jeremyc74[/MENTION]

Since you're an EE why don't you use some of that cash to buy a 5th gen and go grace them with your presence.

They love engineers who know everything. It's the most fun part of the fifth gen section.

I know personality has nothing to do with ones education but the similarities of your comments and those in recent 5th gen threads are really quite humorous.

.




You don't seem to have anything to say about the information I've provided, rather the fact that I've provided it at all, and stuck to my guns. I don't claim to know everything, but I know a HELL OF A LOT about the electrical system on a vehicle, and I'm damn sure not going to be afraid to offer a little advice about it from time to time.

If you'll notice I was dead on about the actual problem in my first post in the thread. Forgive me for offer an actual solution to the problem rather than participating in the typical circle jerk. :playball:

And if I wanted a 5th Gen I'd have one. :doh:
 
I'm just trying to lighten things up a bit.

You do come across as very antagonizing, hence the you'd fit right in with the fifth gens joke.
 
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Sad to see this because as a new member, I have found both of you very knowledgeable and helpful. Maybe we can stay on message?
 
Interestingly enough, I have had an ongoing issue since I bought my '97 LTD Cdn edition with DRL's. It has a aftermarket remote starter/alarm system hacked into it so I have been very hesitant to even poke around as it does work.
I cannot tell even if my problems are related or not !

I would need to write a whole book describing the little "funny" symptoms that may or may not be related.

Recently I had catastrophic failure of my alternator but not before going through many months of unexplained Quirks such as,

All parking lights turning on and off as if setting the alarm system.

Occasionally, it will blow the horn when arming or disarming the alarm system but not always.

Cannot turn off the headlights if I leave the switch on high beam but works fine if switched on low beam.

Will randomly switch on and off the parking lights as I drive. ( See the clock light dim and trailer lights come on when towing). Also disengages the air conditioner briefly.

On a couple separate occasions an unknown short killed the battery.
Recently, after a trip to town, coming home, various alarms started to happen such as ABS and airbag alarms. Got home and found the battery in severe discharged state. I assumed the battery had picked up an internal short the drainage was so low but knew this was a somewhat rare condition on a known good battery but, I swapped it out and everything seemed to be back to my "normal" ( ghosts in the parking/headlights etc.)

A few days ago, the charging idiot light came on in the dashboard telling me alt had failed but within a couple minutes, the battery had also been discharged to a state where it was no longer capable of starting the truck.
I think there was a major short that happened in the alt/reg cct draining my battery very quickly. Fortunately I was at home so no inconvenience.
Will grab alternator from donor truck and replace.
Next day fire up the truck and no alarms or idiot lights, Drive the truck around the farm all day with everything "normal" until all of a sudden, the batt light on again and big draw out of the battery.

Never experienced a intermittent alt before.
Anyhow, swapped it out and everything is back to my "Normal" again with the wonky lights, and ghosts in the system.
 

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