Volvo S60 MAF tube for 96-98

[Dieselchessy]

Sure this path has already been traveled but didn’t find it here.
Has anyone tried installing a 2001-2005 Volvo S60 MAF tube and sensor(same as 99-02 4runner) onto a 96-98 4runner?

As Murphy would have it I just picked up an entire 2000 intake setup ( air box, MAF, resonator) and ordered new rubber sections to convert my 98.
I was searching the web to gather pin out info and stumbled onto the Volvo conversion folks do to the Tacoma’s.

 

[Dieselchessy]

I found the answer to my own question. Looks like a few have gone that route. I found one on e-bay for $40 so have it in route.

97 maf to 99 conversion without air box swap!

 

[mesooohoppy]

what is the point of putting volvo stuff on a toyota...??

 

[Dieselchessy]

Well......Its Denso, so doesn't that make it OK on this forum?

The Volvo MAF tube and MAF are reported to be a direct swap, or nearly so, to convert the 96-98 MAF over to the use of the 99-2002 MAF.

The 96-98 MAF from Toyota, if your a die hard Toyota parts only guy, will run you about $700.

The 99-02 MAF from Toyota will run you about $120 and you can find a Denso one for ~$80.

So, for $40 for a used Volvo MAF tube with a Denso (Volvo) MAF I can replace my $700 and 20 year old MAF. And if the used Denso MAF in the Volvo unit is faulty as well, for $120 I can add a Toyota MAF.

So rather than spend $700 for a new Toyota MAF that is rather restrictive to air flow, I can spend $160 on a Volvo tube and Toyota MAF and convert to the better flowing 99-02 style MAF and then future replacements would be $120 or so.

The other method is to buy a 99-02 4runner air box and silencer (I paid $170) and then replace the 20 year old rubber parts ($40) and then buy a new Toyota MAF ($120) and convert to the 99-02 style intake.

I bought both setups cause I'm curious, it was only $40, I'll probably get a spare MAF out of the deal, and I have friends with 96-98 4runners who are always happy to receive a windfall.

 

[T4R2014]

what is the point of putting volvo stuff on a toyota...??

Not many realize but these Swedish gems are filled with lots of Aisin and Denso components.

 

[mesooohoppy]

i see. it wasnt clear when i cliked the link in post #2.

are MAFs dying on 3rd gens enough to worry? its always nice to have another option. no i dont care if its a volvo maf on a toyota, i was just trying to figure out what was the overall point/goal.

 

[Dieselchessy]

I’ve not seen them die, but they are getting a bit long in the tooth.

The Volvo tube with working MAF would serve as a trail spare for any third gen with just a little pin swapping. So there’s that.

My current MAF is questionable to me. Rig runs ok, but it’s a possibility I want to eliminate. Just not at $700. Plus I like the idea of better air flow even though I don’t expect any performance gain.

 

[gamefreakgc]

i see. it wasnt clear when i cliked the link in post #2.

are MAFs dying on 3rd gens enough to worry? its always nice to have another option. no i dont care if its a volvo maf on a toyota, i was just trying to figure out what was the overall point/goal.

They do when you drop them 6 ft onto a concrete slab :shocked:

 

[Dieselchessy]

One thing that has occurred to me, though its a small thing, is that the Volvo MAF tube looks to correct an issue present in both of the Toyota setups.

In the 96-98 setup you have to pull the air tube and unbolt the MAF from the air box.
In the 99-02 setup you have to either pull the air box or remove the cruise control module to get at the MAF that's mounted sideways in to the air tube.

On the Volvo tube the MAF is inserted vertically. Very easy access. :thumb:

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I did this swap for my '97, then went back to the original MAF. I found that my LTFT was very high with the swap, and from that experience and other things I've read, that makes sense - the larger duct/MAF of the newer design creates too lean a condition for the '97 ECU that is set up for the smaller duct. So unless you're supercharged, this swap does not make sense, other than maybe a trail spare (although you have to swap pins, so that's less than ideal on the trail), or if you just don't want to spend the money on a replacement early MAF.

 

[Dieselchessy]

I've read similar accounts. While searching for the end of the web I came across one of the threads that was a POLL of who did the swap and did they like it, ect….I found the POLL. Looks like 4 out of 5 Toyota drivers prefer the Volvo MAF. LOL
In the POL they mention 95-96 ECU's having issues and 97-99 being OK. I wonder if your 97 4runner ECU has firmware or hardware similar to the 95-96 Tacamo ECU's that had issues?
“VOLVO MAF” conversion 1997 to 1998 3.4, supercharger upgrade, | Tacoma World


It seems that with the 96-98 rigs its hit and miss as to if your ECU will like the upgraded MAF or not. For sure many folks have success with the swap.

I kind of suspect its due to other issues, the individual MAF, the O2 sensor, ect….

I guess I'll know soon enough what my ECU thinks about it. I run dash command and have historic logs so I'll be able to graph the changes between old and new.

 

[gamefreakgc]

The increased LTFT trims is just more airflow at idle and other speeds. The 96-98 ECU's expect that huge turbine thing to restrict air so it's made from the factory with those specs. Remove the restriction so it flows better and now it has to catch up and add more fuel to keep the AFR's where they should be. It's not a bad thing. But yeah, rather pointless if you aren't chasing HP or having to replace it.

 

[Lamer]

just bought everything needed for this mod for $60 on ebay.

I will be doing this mod at the same time I install my supercharger, color me excited!

 

[Dieselchessy]

I installed the Volvo tube and MAF after cleaning. Pinned the connector and fired it up.
Fired right up and ran through the high idle warm up sequence. Drove it for 15 miles or so. Readings look normal to me. I’ll have to graph and compare, but initial impression is that the ECU is happy.

No seat of the pants change as expected. The intake funnel in the fender chokes down to maybe 2” diameter and it’s the restriction point.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I installed the Volvo tube and MAF after cleaning. Pinned the connector and fired it up.
Fired right up and ran through the high idle warm up sequence. Drove it for 15 miles or so. Readings look normal to me. I’ll have to graph and compare, but initial impression is that the ECU is happy.

No seat of the pants change as expected. The intake funnel in the fender chokes down to maybe 2” diameter and it’s the restriction point.

Only place you MIGHT feel a difference it as wide open throttle. But how much time do we spend driving it with the pedal to the floor? Not much at all.

The deckplate mod showed HP gains on a stock engine but once again, only at WOT. I would expect this to be a similar experience. However, more airflow is always a good thing, makes the engine not have to work as hard.

 

[Dieselchessy]

I don’t expect it added any airflow at all. The point the air enters the intake inside the fender measures about 1 3/4” diameter. But no doubt air leaks in at other points. The stock 96-98 MAF has more area than that.

It’s easy to see how the deck plate would add air flow potential. It bypasses the most restrictive point.

I think cutting off the elbow inside the fender would be a cleaner approach.

I think I may try a different route. I’m thinking about using a heat gun to soften the plastic and then expanding it a bit. If I can open it up to 2.5” it would double the area.

 

[Dieselchessy]

So I graphed out the Short term, Long Term, and O2 readings both Pre and Post adding the Volvo MAF.

Prior to adding the MAF I had worked through a list of items trying to clean up some pinging and slightly rough 1000 rpm range, as well as a constantly negative Long term fuel trim and a more often than not negative short term fuel trim.
I'll be the first to say I really don't know much about the fuel trims. As always I'm open to any advice or learnings other have to offer.

I replaced the O2 sensor and ran a tank with 2 bottles of Seafoam at about the same time so cant separate those impacts. After doing so the pinging was dropped from 1500 down to around 1000 and also largely reduced in magnitude. The roughness at 1000 was reduced by half. O2 readings became more responsive and short term fuel trims looked to become more balanced. Long term fuel trims remained negative at all times.

After installing the Volvo MAF the Pinging and 1000 roughness seem maybe slightly improved, but just might be wishful thinking. Short term fuel trims have seemed to shift slightly toward the negative on average and long term fuel trims have made a large shift positive and now aren't always negative. The response throughout the throttle range seems smoother to me.
I've only got 1/4 tank into the Volvo MAF so its a bit early to judge.

At no time during any of this have I ever had an engine light or error code. Its just my own seat of the pants assessment that I didn't like how the engine was running.

Pic came out small. Blue is Short, orange is Long, and grey is O2.

NOTE:
Just so I'm not leaving loose ends. Further testing shows LTFT is still rather negative at lower RPMs and then improves as RPM's increase. I am running the later brown injectors in a 98 that originally had grey injectors. My plan is to send the grey injectors off for servicing and then install them and see.

 

[Radrider]

Re pin for 98

Hey all I'm trying to be certain of my wiring for this mod.
I've been running the supra maf for years and tuned that just fine.
Stumbled upon this mod as i was doing research into causes for my high nox/lean smog issue(which maybe maf/vac leak/tune).
So more airflow and easier denso cleaning/replacing has me doing this mod.

So does anyone know how many pins should be positioned?
I have the volvo maf and 99-04 denso sensor(supposedly oem from ebay but that's not 100%)

Mine is 98 4runner 4x4 M/T.
If someone knows the s pinouts please write then from right to left as if the clip is facing up.
Thanks for any help!

 

[spartacus]

Hey all I'm trying to be certain of my wiring for this mod.
I've been running the supra maf for years and tuned that just fine.
Stumbled upon this mod as i was doing research into causes for my high nox/lean smog issue(which maybe maf/vac leak/tune).
So more airflow and easier denso cleaning/replacing has me doing this mod.

So does anyone know how many pins should be positioned?
I have the volvo maf and 99-04 denso sensor(supposedly oem from ebay but that's not 100%)

Mine is 98 4runner 4x4 M/T.
If someone knows the s pinouts please write then from right to left as if the clip is facing up.
Thanks for any help!

[MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] shows the sequence and the depining process in his YouTube video.at about the 7.30 mark
1996 thru 1998 toyota 4runner cold air intake update + MAF repin - YouTube

 

[Radrider]

Thanks yes I saw that video other day and I had switched them this way and it started up. Fuel trims went to -20 so I made some fuel map adjustments. (Moved idle from 9.6 to 9.1 via R4).
Also, Was sticking in open loop at idle so I wasn't sure this was good pin placement for my rig so,
I posted on Volvo maf thread tacomaworld and then
A member there i think threw me off because he suggested a stock(98) pin placement which I was late to realize didnt make sense...
So back to the stock 99-04 configuration as this YouTube video showed and see how settled out.

Update: tuning coming along good. Went from average of 9.7 to 8.7 fuel cell figures closed loop via piggyback ftc/R4