Vsc abs lights on
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Canazes9
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Get a multi-meter and do a continuity check on the wiring for the ABS sensor. There is a clip where you can detach the wiring at the sensor and another inside the engine compartment on the fender wall. You will need some help to actually conduct the continuity check as its almost impossible to put the probes on the inside of the fender and at the lower abs wiring at the same time.
There is a good chance that you broke the wires inside their protective sheaths when you unloaded the suspension for this work. The wiring just sits in clips across the front coil over and probably won't be able to see any obvious problem. When the suspension gets flexed to maximum the clips can bind on the rubber sheathing and pin it. The wiring has zero stretch and breaks easily inside the rubber sheathing. The sheathing has good flexibility and goes back in place with no problem so when you just look at it you probably won't see anything wrong.
There are two wires in the abs sensor line and most likely they are both broken. If you verify the wiring is broken (multi-meter), the part is probably something you will have to order from the dealer. Typically its in the $70 range. If you are handy w/ a soldering iron you can probably patch the wiring w/ an appropriate spliced in piece of appropriate gauge (don't remember off the top of my head) while you wait for your factory wiring to come in to the dealership. I would NOT recommend you drive long term w/ the splice, really should be repaired properly.
HTH
David
ugamurph
New member
I had the same issue with the ABS, Brake, and VSC lights. I had the code read and it showed that the left rear sensor was giving the error code. I found a small rub spot on the rubber sheath, but nothing that looked damaged. I was able to do this...
Solder repair of ABS sensor lead
[MENTION=96409]Canazes9[/MENTION], what's the reason for not being able to use this as a long term fix?
Jamie
Last edited:
Canazes9
New member
Mainly my OCD I guess! :loco:
I just don't like the idea of replacing a continuous run of wire with two soldered joints. Sure, properly done (soldered joints, heat shrink tubing) it should be as solid/long lasting as the original piece. The factory replacement wiring is a rip-off for what it is, but still surprisingly cheap (~$70) and I just can't sleep well knowing I've got "broken wiring" waiting to fail and cause my 4wd issues next time I'm off road....
Like I said -
:madgrin:
David
ugamurph
New member
I gotcha. I'll be the test dummy on the longevity of that fix. Mine has good solder joints and each wire has heat shrink around the joints. I also put another heat shrink on to "replace" the rubber sheath in that area. A little extra insurance so to speak. Hopefully that'll hold for awhile.
Mine likely broke after scrubbing it across a rock ledge. The left rear wire lead runs under the panhard bar mount on the axle. Not a good spot when your axle housing scrapes a rock.
