VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, and Check Engine Light, shaking, and noises.

MattJakobs

New member
I recently purchased a 2001 SR5 with about 195k miles. Took our first road trip in it this weekend for a little over 400 miles. Most of the driving was highway but some time was spent in 4wd when we went on the sand. On the way home, we noticed some shaking when stopped but nothing more. Walk out today, turn her on and experience heavy shaking, a high pitched clicking noise, and the VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, and Check Engine Lights. The click sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the engine and can be heard best near the passenger side front wheel. Did some research and have tried screwing the gas cap tighter but that doesn't seem to be the issue. Anyone have and thoughts or experiences with this?
 
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Did you get the CEL codes read? I'd start there.

Just got home from the dealership actually, this is what they told me...
"Multiple misfire codes, recommend start with spark plugs, spark plug wires, and PCV valve $288.59 plus fuel induction service $89.95."

Pretty sure I can get this all done myself for much cheaper, should be a fun weekend...
 
you sure can.... Assuming it is the 6 cylinder the parts are about 100 bucks for OEM - and most of that is wires. Comments below are for plugs and not injectors Do a search but there are only a few gotchas..
1. I would get OEM plugs.. There have been some issues posted on non OEM
2. Be careful with the wires... ONly do one at a time so you don't guess which is which
3. Torque wrench and anti sieze are needed.
4. Captain obvious - don't do it after driving. Cold engine is good

I would also do the fuel filter and clean MAF sensor and skip the injectors unless the other stuff doesn;t work.

You are looking at 2-3 hours and it is not a tough job
 
you sure can.... Assuming it is the 6 cylinder the parts are about 100 bucks for OEM - and most of that is wires. Comments below are for plugs and not injectors Do a search but there are only a few gotchas..
1. I would get OEM plugs.. There have been some issues posted on non OEM
2. Be careful with the wires... ONly do one at a time so you don't guess which is which
3. Torque wrench and anti sieze are needed.
4. Captain obvious - don't do it after driving. Cold engine is good

I would also do the fuel filter and clean MAF sensor and skip the injectors unless the other stuff doesn;t work.

You are looking at 2-3 hours and it is not a tough job

Thanks for the info, it looks like I have non OEM plugs in so that may be the cause of all this. After some research, think I'm going to go with the NGK (4412) TE66 Wire Set. The fuel filter most likely needs to be replaced and MAF sensor. Would you recommend cleaning the MAF or is it something to be replaced?
 
Maf sensor can be pricey. Just get a can of maf sensor cleaner you can get it at places like autozone. A code PO300 multiple misfire in all my years being a mechanic has never set lights for traction control or any misfire codes for that matter. It could just be in limp mode or you have another issue. Transmission and abs comes to mind from what you discribed. Misfires wont cause noises like knocking cluncking or banging. I would check for codes in the abs and trans modules. Good luck.
 
Maf sensor can be pricey. Just get a can of maf sensor cleaner you can get it at places like autozone. A code PO300 multiple misfire in all my years being a mechanic has never set lights for traction control or any misfire codes for that matter. It could just be in limp mode or you have another issue. Transmission and abs comes to mind from what you discribed. Misfires wont cause noises like knocking cluncking or banging. I would check for codes in the abs and trans modules. Good luck.

It almost sounds like a ringing sound as versus a knocking or banging, it's a little more of a high pitched clicking. I won't be driving it until we get these issues taken care of and then going to take it back to the dealership to make sure all is well again. I've noticed a little bit of white smoke occasionally upon start up and with some research it seems to be leaking oil. I've been keeping an eye on it and have lost about 2 quarts in the last two weeks so I know I have another problem there. I have inspection due this month so it's good motivation to get all this fixed sooner rather than later. I had it in 4WD this past weekend, do you think this has anything to do with my problems?
 
MAF - clean before replacing but make sure you use MAF cleaner and not carb cleaner. Carb cleaner has been know to eat the MAF wires. The MAF is very easy to clean - AFTER - you get it out. The good news is that it is right on top and in front. The bad news is Toyota saved a few pennies with the bolts holding it in. They heads tend to resist the screwdriver and then round off. If you search there are a few hints on cutting a new groove on the dead with a dremel and I posted a part number for small replacement bolts from Lowes that use an allen head for future removal. If the original bolts come out OK than this is a ten minute job
 
MAF - clean before replacing but make sure you use MAF cleaner and not carb cleaner. Carb cleaner has been know to eat the MAF wires. The MAF is very easy to clean - AFTER - you get it out. The good news is that it is right on top and in front. The bad news is Toyota saved a few pennies with the bolts holding it in. They heads tend to resist the screwdriver and then round off. If you search there are a few hints on cutting a new groove on the dead with a dremel and I posted a part number for small replacement bolts from Lowes that use an allen head for future removal. If the original bolts come out OK than this is a ten minute job

no kidding, I think they made those screws outa cheese. I had to use one of these to get mine off

Ratchets, Sockets & Wrenches | Nut Drivers | Impact Driver, 3/8" Drive | B640736 - GlobalIndustrial.com

of course, maybe that's why I'm having issues.
 

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