Walk me through this... Window motor/actuator problems

[GetZPayd]

The passenger window "needed a new actuator" according to the PO. When I opened up the door panel the window glass was held in place with some cardboard. The actuator and the motor was laying in the bottom of the door cavity. Junkyarded a newer actuator and bought a new motor online.

I have tried both motors at this point. Both will roll down, but not up, from the passenger switch and the drivers switch. Both roll down VERY slow, as if they are laboring to move, the long they run the slow they get. Stop and resart in a few seconds and they start out fine, then start to slow to a crawl after only a couple seconds.

Whats the deal? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[GetZPayd]

Bump

 

[theesotericone]

A 22 minute bump? That's classic. lol

 

[JWaldz]

I don't have any valuable information regarding fixing your issue. However, I changed your title so people can know what you need help on and they wont just blow right past it.

 

[GetZPayd]

I've replaced the window regulator (scissor thing) and kept my original motor. The OEM motors are very expensive but supposedly last a very long time.

Anyway, this is unusual. Windows going down faster than they go up is partially due to the motor working against gravity rather then with it and is to a degree expected. If they go down super slow and won't go up, this sounds to me like the battery is nearly dead or there is lots of voltage drop occurring somewhere in the power supply to the motor starving it.

Possibly the wire loom running between the door and body is pinched or compromised or bad ground? Are the headlights bright? Do the headlights greatly dim when the window motor is trying to work? Is the windows moving test with the engine running? Then again if both sides are moving about the same, this points to a power issue further upstream. Hope this helps a little.

If you get the movement sorted out, keep in mind there is a critical motor calibration step required for the auto-up-down travel limit setting, but even if this is not done they should still move normally, just the auto functions won't work right. You'll want to make sure you do the calibration on re-assembly cause the only way to calibrate auto-up-down is take it all apart again.

Thanks for the response.

Just tested it

Key on/not running: Lights do not dim, rolls at the same speed.
Running: Lights do not dim, but it does roll down much better.
...but only down.

*EDIT* And I have read about the safety switch calibration, not sure I understand it, but I'll follow the process step by step. I've been working on this since Saturday, so I have do plenty of reading on the power windows, I just haven't been able to find the right info

 

[GetZPayd]

All the other windows work just fine, from their switch and from the drivers.

So after thinking about this for the last couple day (I know very little about electrical so disregard the words I use, cuz I really have no idea what I'm saying) could the wire for the "up" function , from both switches, be cut? or loose?

*EDIT* Thx for the PM

 

[GetZPayd]

I think I get it now. 3 windows go up and down just fine. Passenger front is super slow down and only goes up with hand assist when using either the old motor or the replacement motor. You've replaced the regulator cause the the original one was broken.

Starting to sound more like mechanical alignment/resistance is the cause. Easiest way to test is remove the window motor from the regulator and run the motor with nothing attached (you'll need to do this for calibration anyway). If both motors move freely and about the same sound and speed, then it's probably mis-alignment type binding or maybe there's sticky tape residue or something gumming up the glass run making it high friction?

Check you PM, but for those of you that cant see it, yes I was reinstalling the motor and had it off the regulator. Where it asks you to run the motor up for 6-10 revs...it wouldnt go up, so I tried down, it went down. Tried it from the drivers side and same issue, down but no up. Only on the pass window.

 

[nissanh]

Remove the window switches from the rear doors and switch them. See how it works. If this solves the problem, you will have to open up the switch and clean the contact points.

 

[GetZPayd]

Remove the window switches from the rear doors and switch them. See how it works. If this solves the problem, you will have to open up the switch and clean the contact points.

I already cleaned the drivers side, wondering if that was the issue. Ill do what you suggest with the rear window, to at least weed out a bad switch.

*EDIT* I'll have to catch that tomorrow when I have some light. Thanks for your response
Also [MENTION=67856]4R#3[/MENTION] the plastic inner liner was there, though not in great shape. I plan on replacing it

 

[nissanh]

Did you clean the copper contact points and copper blades that touch the contact points?

Also, check the wires at door hinge.

 

[GetZPayd]

Did you clean the copper contact points and copper blades that touch the contact points?

Also, check the wires at door hinge.

Yes I did. The wire looms don't show signs of cuts or pinches, they look pretty good actually.

 

[GetZPayd]

Anyone else have any suggestions on where to look? Or an idea on how to check it?

 

[IBallEngineer]

Anyone else have any suggestions on where to look? Or an idea on how to check it?

Yes I do, took me a little bit to decipher your post. First I want to make sure I actually understand. Now that you figured out the regulator/channel issue. Does it go down normally? So the only problem is the passenger side front window won't go up?

IF that is the case, here is where you start.

At the RF window switch in the RF door. Find terminal 1 on the switch, it will be a light green wire. Using a test light, you need to test that the wire has voltage when you move the switch to the UP position. Again, move the switch to the up position, and the test light should light. If it lights, we'll move to the motor, if it doesn't you may have a bad switch.

Report the results and we'll move to the next test.

:ranger:

 

[IBallEngineer]

Take a close look at the front door window switches on both drivers and passenger side. Unplug the plugs from the switches, clean, and inspect for damaged, bent or missing pins on the switch side as well as damage to the plugs or a wire pulled out of it's plug seat. Push the wires a little back toward their plug seat. Visually inspect carefully. Especially check the red with black stripe and the light green wires since these seem to be responsible for window up.

The window switches themselves are probably not the cause since neither one works and it's unlikely that both failed in the same way at the same time.

Actually if the output of the RH switch fails, it renders the Master switch inoperative. As you pointed out very nicely in the picture!

:cheer2:

 

[GetZPayd]

I'll check both of these when I get home today.

One thing to note (maybe) on the drivers switch panel, passenger switch, there is an area where the plastic is distorted. It looks like someone dropped a cigarette ash on it and melted it, well that what I have chalked it up to. After thinking about it, it would be in the area, on the switch, ABOVE the contacts. It is visible without removing the rocker part of the switch, almost like it got so hot it melted the switch from the inside out. Its just a small spot but the location of it is what caught my attention. Food for thought.

 

[GetZPayd]

Does it go down normally? YES
So the only problem is the passenger side front window won't go up? CORRECT

Sorry for the confusion.

 

[bentos1]

Sorry for the confusion.

If I missed it then my mistake, but have you tried to jump the motor directly from the battery? switching the pos/neg will be up/down.
You will immediately know if the issue is with the motor or wiring.

 

[GetZPayd]

If I missed it then my mistake, but have you tried to jump the motor directly from the battery? switching the pos/neg will be up/down.
You will immediately know if the issue is with the motor or wiring.

I actually have 3 motors I have tried (one new, the original, and a junkyard). All 3 do the exact same thing.

So its gotta be in the switch or wiring. Have a few tests I'll do when I get home.

Thank you for the tip.

 

[GetZPayd]

Yes I do, took me a little bit to decipher your post. First I want to make sure I actually understand. Now that you figured out the regulator/channel issue. Does it go down normally? So the only problem is the passenger side front window won't go up?

IF that is the case, here is where you start.

At the RF window switch in the RF door. Find terminal 1 on the switch, it will be a light green wire. Using a test light, you need to test that the wire has voltage when you move the switch to the UP position. Again, move the switch to the up position, and the test light should light. If it lights, we'll move to the motor, if it doesn't you may have a bad switch.

Report the results and we'll move to the next test.

:ranger:

Ok, I have power to the lt. green wire w/the switch in the up position.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Ok, I have power to the lt. green wire w/the switch in the up position.

OK, now same procedure, switch in the up position. Check the Blue with Yellow stripe wire in position #6 for Ground. You will need to have the other end of the test light connected to POWER. Or use an Ohmmeter and check for continuity to ground with the switch in the UP position.

:hungry: