WarnerD9's Build thread

[WarnerD9]

Toyota is now wanting to recreate the scenario where my engine hydro locked and threw a rod so they can reengineer to prevent it in the future. I'm trying to think if I can sneak any other idea improvements in the scenario. I am pretty impressed that they are following up on this though. I will keep you posted.

 

[harper7]

Toyota is now wanting to recreate the scenario where my engine hydro locked and threw a rod so they can reengineer to prevent it in the future. I'm trying to think if I can sneak any other idea improvements in the scenario. I am pretty impressed that they are following up on this though. I will keep you posted.

That might be hard to recreate Tony!
I think your the only one crazy enough to take your truck completely sideways enough to oil h-lock it without rolling it over.
From that one pic ,it looks like you owe Bud a beer,as that bump out slider looks like the only thing that kept you from rolling it over .Made me a believer in the bump outs.
I'm reading over on the FJ forum all the time and haven't read where oil hydrolocked an FJ yet as water intake is always the culprit and they have the same engine.

 

[KidVermicious]

Toyota is now wanting to recreate the scenario where my engine hydro locked and threw a rod so they can reengineer to prevent it in the future. I'm trying to think if I can sneak any other idea improvements in the scenario. I am pretty impressed that they are following up on this though. I will keep you posted.

Wait whut? What did I miss?

 

[1engineer]

I think because of your relationship with the dealer warranty was approved.
Oh, great pics! I also think that even at that angle oil shouldn't have been trapped in a certain point. You just may have been the first guy to test that in a specific application and it will now become a case to take back to Japan with the engineers.

My guess is the photo-op is what really lead to the failure of you're engine. If you didn't stop idling for that and continued focused on wheeling. When that front came up like that you could have backed on down to try again at a better angle, or stopped there where you did shut it off and do what you did and winch out. Or at the very least, when the engine died at that angle don't try and restart it there.

I'm my opinion, you are 100% at fault for what lead to the cause of this failure.

LOL, they are going to make a few small changes so you're engine will run just fine for extended periods at this angle. At what angle does it end then, until vertical? This engine has been out for how many years now, how many have you heard of?

This engine is also in the FJ, and most wheel them allot harder that the 5th gen 4R crowd, haven't seen it a problem over their.

How many other late model vehicles offered now do you think that can run for extended periods at that angle without a problem?



Correct many have been through that trail, does that mean they all took the same line and we're just sitting idling at that same extreme angle, resulting in having to get winched out or flop it?

I don't think it was the trail or even possibly the line he took, it was directly caused by what happened after that. Sitting for a bit idling at that angle, the engine knew their was a problem, probable why it cut power. Then he tried to "re-start" it multiple times all while at the same angle finaly pushing the RSCA button. Then when it finally did start, poooofff.

Toyota is now wanting to recreate the scenario where my engine hydro locked and threw a rod so they can reengineer to prevent it in the future. I'm trying to think if I can sneak any other idea improvements in the scenario. I am pretty impressed that they are following up on this though. I will keep you posted.

Glad to hear! I think we talked about that back around post 200 or so lol.

We can't stand it when something does something it was not designed to do, and that includes unexplained failure. Again, good job on being the first!

 

[WarnerD9]

Definitely the best way to install a roof rack.

Project "lean"

More to come...

 

[MadeInMaine]

ha, nice

 

[KVA]

Definitely the best way to install a roof rack.

Project "lean"

More to come...

Aluminum rack...nice, like the mount brackets. Looks like they made one complete bracket "a la stock" since you've got 10 mount points in the pic.

 

[WarnerD9]

Tire Update

The BFGs were starting to become a problem as they were creating a lot of vibration and I couldn't seem to get them well balanced. They're great for rocks and mud but the fact that they're on my daily was wearing on me so I decided to go with some 295/75/17 Nittos.

Not as aggressive as i'd like but they are certainly smoother and quieter.

Roof Rack

I am very impressed with the K9 roof rack. I was able to handle the main roof section easily with one hand. A different story for the Gobi removal process. I'm really liking the ability to drop bolts into the rails and mount about whatever as you'd please.

If the Gobi and the K9 started the same job the same day I would imagine that the Gobi would do well and look great but the K9 would end up owning the company. It's just that much smarter and better.

I mounted the 20" under the rack and there is just barely enough clearance but it fits like a glove. I'm trying to decide if I'm going to mount my (2) 4" Rigids to the side of the 20" or not.

Really depends on what I do with the snorkel.

Snorkel

I'm planning on taking it to a custom body shop and having the snorkel modified so that the fender entry is behind the wheel and have a connector from there to the air box inside the fender.

Maintenance

I've had some popping in the front end. Figured CVs were getting tired so I swapped them out only to find the popping didn't go away. I've also replaced every joint, bearing, and bushing in the front end so it's a mystery to me. Anyone else had a mystery knock/pop in the front end and had any luck getting it taken care of?

I'll get some pics up shortly.

 

[jbstrd]

Maintenance

I've had some popping in the front end. Figured CVs were getting tired so I swapped them out only to find the popping didn't go away. I've also replaced every joint, bearing, and bushing in the front end so it's a mystery to me. Anyone else had a mystery knock/pop in the front end and had any luck getting it taken care of?

I'll get some pics up shortly.

I assume you have, but did you check the KDSS sway bar bushings as the source of the clunk?

 

[swimmerdude1127]

[MENTION=77684]WarnerD9[/MENTION] please let me know what trimming you have to do so you won't rub with that size tire at flex. I want to move up to 305/70/17.

If your sound is happening after acceleration/deceleration check your UCA bushings -- more specifically the tightness of your UCA long bolt. My Icon tubulars actually aren't quite wide enough to fit perfectly in the alotted dimension for the long bolt, so even with the bolt torqued to the very end of the thread, there's some wiggle room over time.

 

[WarnerD9]

@swimmerdude & [MENTION=54404]jbstrd[/MENTION]. Thanks for the input. I replaced all bushings and other wear items at 50K.

The sound is most prevalent when reversing or switching between forward and reverse. May simply be wear and I shouldn't be worried about it. However I'm pretty anal about keeping everything in top mechanical condition. I'll check the UCA bolts and bushings again.

 

[bimrunner]

@swimmerdude & [MENTION=54404]jbstrd[/MENTION]. Thanks for the input. I replaced all bushings and other wear items at 50K.

The sound is most prevalent when reversing or switching between forward and reverse. May simply be wear and I shouldn't be worried about it. However I'm pretty anal about keeping everything in top mechanical condition. I'll check the UCA bolts and bushings again.

What are the conditions you notice the popping sound? I had a few loose plastic snap rivits that made noise and some on the plastic liner due to the heavy trimming. Made way more racket than I thought they should but I guess sounds can get a bit amplified. Also, check the torque on your skids. Had that noise too and it can be a popping sound up front.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

@swimmerdude & [MENTION=54404]jbstrd[/MENTION]. Thanks for the input. I replaced all bushings and other wear items at 50K.

The sound is most prevalent when reversing or switching between forward and reverse. May simply be wear and I shouldn't be worried about it. However I'm pretty anal about keeping everything in top mechanical condition. I'll check the UCA bolts and bushings again.

Sounds identical to mine. My rig has been doing it the last 1k miles or so -- please let me know what you discover (I haven't gotten to doing mine yet but am almost certain of the source). I'm 98% sure my thunk sound is suspension-related (and not drivetrain) because when it cycled a lot on the Potts mtn trail it would do it predictably. For me it's kind of a deeper sound than a normal light click.

Do you anticipate doing further trimming with 34.4" tires? I imagine the worst of it would be in the rear with the ET setup.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

Also, meant to add... If your UCA bushings have compressed over time/with use then you will likely be in the same boat as me. FWIW I plan on adding another of the icon washers to each side to make up the lost space so the nut will have intimate contact. That won't affect alignment or anything else so it should be a simple fix, so long as that's my problem.

 

[WarnerD9]

That's the thing, I replaced literally all bushings in the front end. Entire steering rack, UCA poly bushings, UCA uniballs, complete lower control arms (with new bushings), wheel bearings, KDSS sway bar bushings, and hardware. All within the last 3k miles. Not sure what else it could be. Maybe I'll have to try @swimmerdude1227 's idea.

The tires clear fine with the SCS wheels/back spacing and the front body mount chop. These are a bit wider and shorter than my BFGs. I ran the same Nittos on my FJ with a 2" lift and never ran into issues.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

That's the thing, I replaced literally all bushings in the front end. Entire steering rack, UCA poly bushings, UCA uniballs, complete lower control arms (with new bushings), wheel bearings, KDSS sway bar bushings, and hardware. All within the last 3k miles. Not sure what else it could be. Maybe I'll have to try @swimmerdude1227 's idea.

The tires clear fine with the SCS wheels/back spacing and the front body mount chop. These are a bit wider and shorter than my BFGs. I ran the same Nittos on my FJ with a 2" lift and never ran into issues.

That wasn't a typo when you said 295/75 right? That's over 34" in diameter based on the tire size calc. You think 305's would rub?

Did you have to flatten out your pinch weld on the firewall side of your front fender? I'm really curious if we could run 35's with some creativity... moving my MetalTech adjustable lower links back a little for better rear clearance, doing the pinch weld like all the Tacoma guys do... it'd be a project. At least we're already geared for it...

 

[WarnerD9]

Ha, I forgot about that. I remember flattening out the pinch welds and having to mess with the panel gaps afterwards. It worked out ok, not concourse de elegance approved but 99.9% of the population would never notice.

Most 35's actually are in the 34.## range anyway. The 295/75/17 or 285/75/17s are as tall as if ever run on FJs or 4Runners.

I think the 305s would be too wide, that's why I stayed away from them. The two sizes I mentioned is a lot of rubber and weight for a tire. If I weren't so stubborn and if I were more sensible if run smaller tires or drive an Eco diesel compact, but then again what for?

 

[bimrunner]

I'd still check out your skids. Check to make sure all the bolts are snugged up tight or take them off and see if you still have the noise.

 

[Jeremy556]

Trail or Terra?

 

[WarnerD9]

Terra