Warning Lights On

[GreyhoundGuy]

UPDATE in Post #15...

After work as I hopped in my 4R to head home, the dash was showing a blinking Rear Differential Light, a solid ABS light, and a solid Slip Indicator. (There were no lights on when I pulled in this morning.) I checked the manual and didn't see anything. I did a search here and found a couple posts (Multi-Terrain Select & Slip Indicator Lights On and LSD light is on) that I was hoping would point me in the right direction.

Both of those posters said that they had just installed lifts. I haven't installed anything... the last thing I installed was new wheels and tires, but that was back on 9/2.

I'm trying to figure out if this is an ABS issue (like in the second post) or a yaw rate / steering angle / zero point calibration (like in the first post)... or maybe something else.

Any other ideas?

-Joel

 

[Canazes9]

After work as I hopped in my 4R to head home, the dash was showing a blinking Rear Differential Light, a solid ABS light, and a solid Slip Indicator. (There were no lights on when I pulled in this morning.) I checked the manual and didn't see anything. I did a search here and found a couple posts (Multi-Terrain Select & Slip Indicator Lights On and LSD light is on) that I was hoping would point me in the right direction.

Both of those posters said that they had just installed lifts. I haven't installed anything... the last thing I installed was new wheels and tires, but that was back on 9/2.

I'm trying to figure out if this is an ABS issue (like in the second post) or a yaw rate / steering angle / zero point calibration (like in the first post)... or maybe something else.

Any other ideas?

-Joel

I think its more likely that you have a damaged wire or abs sensor than having zero point calibration error unless you smacked a curb or pot hole really hard this morning. Get a multi-meter (you can buy cheap at local auto parts store if you don't already have one) and check continuity on each of your abs sensor wires. Disconnect wire from each sensor and from the harness connection spots and check continuity.

You will need someone to help, its almost impossible to hold the probe on each end of the wiring harness on the front wheels. Start with the front, the wires in the front are more likely to be damaged when the suspension is unloaded. You will NOT be able to see any damage - the outer rubberized sheathing is very flexible and stretches, the wires break inside and you can't see the break. If you find a broken wire you can probably rig a patch by splicing and sodering in a new wire. I would only run on a patch until you can get the new wire ordered from Toyota - the part is fairly cheap (I think like $70).

If you check the continuity on all sensors and they are all good then I would take it to the shop where you got your rims and have them check alignment and perform zero point calibration.

Good luck!

David

 

[j_shoe99]

Just for fun....I'd say go back outside, and start it up again.....and see if the lights are still on...

 

[harper7]

Lights on most cars these days are just basic idiot lights and can refer to a number of problems and might not even be specific to what light is flashing.

Take it to autozone , most autoparts store or someplace that has a scanner and can plug into the OBD port to see what codes come up from the onboard computer is the first step. Write it/them down and check here to see what the problem is. OBD-II Check Engine Light Trouble Codes

OBD scanners to buy are around $20 or less and a valuable tool to own.

 

[GreyhoundGuy]

I think its more likely that you have a damaged wire or abs sensor than having zero point calibration error unless you smacked a curb or pot hole really hard this morning.

I haven't hit anything or "run aground" at all. That's why this is coming as a complete surprise (especially having not done a lift or suspension work). Hopefully your idea of the ABS wire is right.

Just for fun....I'd say go back outside, and start it up again.....and see if the lights are still on...

I had the same thought. I ran to the grocery store and saw that the lights were all still there in the same setup.

Take it to autozone ... write it/them down and check here to see what the problem is. OBD-II Check Engine Light Trouble Codes... OBD scanners to buy are around $20 or less and a valuable tool to own.

Will do. And I'll probably just pick one up to have for the future. Thanks for the idea.

Thanks, y'all.

-Joel

 

[TomT]

I just had a similar issue and it turned out to be the steering angle sensor that was having an issue due to a loose pin in the fuse box.

Here's my thread about it.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...cal-issues-after-dealer-worked-my-new-te.html

A pic of my dash lights when they were malfunctioning.

 

[Canazes9]

Lights on most cars these days are just basic idiot lights and can refer to a number of problems and might not even be specific to what light is flashing.

Take it to autozone , most autoparts store or someplace that has a scanner and can plug into the OBD port to see what codes come up from the onboard computer is the first step. Write it/them down and check here to see what the problem is. OBD-II Check Engine Light Trouble Codes

OBD scanners to buy are around $20 or less and a valuable tool to own.

I was under the belief that OBD-II did not display codes for ABS related issues? Don't ABS codes require a more expensive scanner?

David

 

[GreyhoundGuy]

AutoZone... no codes found

I was under the belief that OBD-II did not display codes for ABS related issues? Don't ABS codes require a more expensive scanner?

David

I went to AutoZone and had them connect their OBD sensor. No codes were found... but they said that they didn't think it would find an ABS error code (like you thought, [MENTION=96409]Canazes9[/MENTION]).

I guess the next step is to get under the 4R and start searching. Any idea what the wires look like, where they'll be attached? Is this the location/wire (found in a post by [MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] related post)?

-Joel

 

[Canazes9]

I went to AutoZone and had them connect their OBD sensor. No codes were found... but they said that they didn't think it would find an ABS error code (like you thought, @Canazes9).

I guess the next step is to get under the 4R and start searching. Any idea what the wires look like, where they'll be attached? Is this the location/wire (found in a post by @harper7related post)?

-Joel

If you have a broken wire you won't find it by looking - from the outside it will look fine. The wire will be broken inside the rubber sheath.

Unplug the ABS sensor at the wheel, then pop the hood and trace the ABS wire to the next connection point inside the engine compartment on the inner fender - disconnect here.

Get a multi-meter, set to continuity check. Check the multi-meter for proper function - touch the probes you should get tone indicating continuity. Feed 1 probe up through the fender by the front suspension and grab it from up top through the engine compartment. Have a helper stick the other probe on one of the wires at the the ABS sensor. While they are holding the probe, you stick the other end in both sides (one at a time) of the wiring inside the engine compartment on the Fender.

One of the two wires you touch should give you tone, indicating continuity (current can flow from one end to the other). Get your partner to put the probe in the other wire at the sensor and repeat the check as before. Usually if one wire is broken, the other one is also.

Me wife is running errands in the 4Runner or I would go snap you some pictures. If you haven't figured it out by then, I'll take them.

If you get good tone on both wires, put the clips back on, and check the other front side the same way. If you get good tone on both fronts check the back. My experience has been that the fronts are more likely to be damaged due to the IFS and the way the wires are routed.

If you can get good tone on all wires and all of the sensors are undamaged you will probably need to either buy an ABS scanner or take it to the dealer and pay them to check the codes and see what is wrong.

Good Luck!

HTH

David

 

[Canazes9]

Ok, so here's the front ABS sensor, disconnect the clip here:



Here is the drivers side clip inside the engine compartment on driver side fender:



Same picture backed off a little to make it easier to locate:



Passenger side:



Passenger side same pic, little further out:




Sorry, I didn't get under there and take pics of the rears, but its fairly self explanatory if you can find these and check.

Hope this helps.

David

 

[flyrv9]

Seems like the ABS sensor should read some resistive value and not just continuity. I don't know what the value is, but I'd think the 4 sensors should read about the same. So, you could compare them looking for the odd value. I don't think they will read the same, but they should be close - lets say within 10% of one another. Remember to adjust the scale on your meter so you don't think a sensor is shorted due to a too low scale setting. A shorted sensor will be shorted on all scales. An open sensor will be open on all scales as well. Wiggle the wires while doing this test to see if you have a poor connection inside the connector body. It would be nice to know what kind of sensor it really is; so you would know what a proper value to expect. If they are Hall effect sensors, then they will behave funny. I'd have to go back and look them up. It's been years since I have worked with them.

 

[Canazes9]

Seems like the ABS sensor should read some resistive value and not just continuity. I don't know what the value is, but I'd think the 4 sensors should read about the same. So, you could compare them looking for the odd value. I don't think they will read the same, but they should be close - lets say within 10% of one another. Remember to adjust the scale on your meter so you don't think a sensor is shorted due to a too low scale setting. A shorted sensor will be shorted on all scales. An open sensor will be open on all scales as well. Wiggle the wires while doing this test to see if you have a poor connection inside the connector body. It would be nice to know what kind of sensor it really is; so you would know what a proper value to expect. If they are Hall effect sensors, then they will behave funny. I'd have to go back and look them up. It's been years since I have worked with them.

My posts were not referencing checking continuity on the sensors, but rather on the wiring - its a known issue.

David

 

[FrontRange4Runner]

Not sure if this has been tried yet, but you might just unhook the battery for a while. Obviously the systems in modern cars are complicated and rely heavily on computers. Resetting these computers from time to time might not be a bad idea.

 

[phillyd2]

Just put black tape over the lights and call it good. :croc:

 

[GreyhoundGuy]

Update

I did a bit of digging today (finally had time) and found the culprit.

In case you want to see the warning lights, here's a short video. I'm showing a solid ABS light, a solid Slip Control light, and a blinking Rear Differential light. As mentioned above, most 4Rs are having this issue after doing a lift, but I haven't done a lift yet. Anyway, here's my pretty Christmas tree...


Clickable Link for Above Video

I followed the line up from the plug at the front passenger wheel and, low and behold, found the problem. The wire is completely severed. But that's not the entire problem. The problem is the bracket that the wire and plug are attached to (above the wheel, not below). Have a look...


Clickable Link for Above Video

So yup... free-floating bracket. I can't figure out where it goes, so if y'all could take a look on your trucks and point me in the right direction, that'd help me out a ton. Thanks!!

-Joel

BTW - When I embed the videos from YouTube and view them within the T4R page, they won't let me click to go full screen. Any ideas why?

 

[GrantK]

So yup... free-floating bracket. I can't figure out where it goes, so if y'all could take a look on your trucks and point me in the right direction, that'd help me out a ton. Thanks!!

I don't know if this is what you're looking for or not. But from the on-line repair manual under front suspension, upper control arm:

I think it might be the "Skid control sensor wire"

 

[FrontRange4Runner]

Wow, I would really like to know how that happened....Tomorrow I should be able to go out and take a look at mine, if you have not gotten it solved by then.

 

[Canazes9]

I did a bit of digging today (finally had time) and found the culprit.

In case you want to see the warning lights, here's a short video. I'm showing a solid ABS light, a solid Slip Control light, and a blinking Rear Differential light. As mentioned above, most 4Rs are having this issue after doing a lift, but I haven't done a lift yet. Anyway, here's my pretty Christmas tree...


Clickable Link for Above Video

I followed the line up from the plug at the front passenger wheel and, low and behold, found the problem. The wire is completely severed. But that's not the entire problem. The problem is the bracket that the wire and plug are attached to (above the wheel, not below). Have a look...


Clickable Link for Above Video

So yup... free-floating bracket. I can't figure out where it goes, so if y'all could take a look on your trucks and point me in the right direction, that'd help me out a ton. Thanks!!

-Joel

BTW - When I embed the videos from YouTube and view them within the T4R page, they won't let me click to go full screen. Any ideas why?

No, NO! You won't be able to find the broken wire without a multi-meter!

Ummm. Maybe I was mistaken about that, it's a little easier when the wire is cut clean through! :redface:

Anyway, here's what I think you are looking for:



The bracket is bolted on to the fire wall with one bolt and 1 tab fits in a slot to help locate the bracket. I didn't take my air box off for the picture, but I think you can see what you need to see. You need that 10mm bolt!

HTH

David

 

[GreyhoundGuy]

...here's what I think you are looking for:



The bracket is bolted on to the fire wall with one bolt and 1 tab fits in a slot to help locate the bracket. I didn't take my air box off for the picture, but I think you can see what you need to see. You need that 10mm bolt!

HTH

David

That's a perfect shot. Thanks, [MENTION=96409]Canazes9[/MENTION]!

I'm headed to the dealer on Monday to get a couple items. I'll see if they can wrangle up a 10mm bolt for me.

-Joel

 

[flyrv9]

So Canazes9 your post on 9/27/2013 where you suggest checking continuity of the sensors was in error then!


If you check the continuity on all sensors and they are all good then I would take it to the shop where you got your rims and have them check alignment and perform zero point calibration.

Good luck!

David