Warped front rotors

[JeffMerr]

Took my truck to get an oil change and the mechanic told me the rotors look like they've had hot spots in them and are warped. I have noticed small vibrations when braking the past 3 months or so. What passes me off is that I just had my brakes replaced less than 10k miles ago, and 95% of my miles are freeway. I'm guessing someone did a shitty job on resurfacing the rotors? My mechanic stated that you can resurface the rotors, but that since they've already been done he would suggest just buying new ones, as the more you resurface them the more metal you lose and the less effective they become at dissipating heat. Is this issue common at all with 4runners? Can anyone suggest a good front rotor to buy from rockauto? I don't need anything crazy, but would like a good quality one comparable to oem.

Thanks

 

[KidVermicious]

Rotors don't normally warp, it's pretty rare in fact. What happens is they get deposits from brake pad and that makes high spots, which is the pulsing you feel. It can be because of crappy pads or because you braked to a stop too hard with hot brakes or just because it's been a long time, but it always happens eventually.

You don't need to get them turned, you can clean them yourself with an angle grinder and a fine wire wheel. Then get some new pads, good ones if your old ones weren't, and bed them in properly.

 

[ghs215]

Where is this "buildup" of brake material? Shouldn't I be able to see it with my bare eyes? Some brake cleaner and Brillo pad clean it right up?

-just curious

 

[JeffMerr]

Thanks for the reply. I purchased Wagner thermoquiet ceramic pads which were highly reviewed and I thought were really good quality?
I don't have access to the tools or anything to take the rotors off and take a grinder/wheel to them. Would my bed bet be getting them turned or just buying new ones? Looks like rotors are fairly inexpensive at 80.00 for a set.

Thanks

 

[KidVermicious]

Where is this "buildup" of brake material? Shouldn't I be able to see it with my bare eyes? Some brake cleaner and Brillo pad clean it right up?

-just curious

Uh, maybe? I've never tried. It would probably take a while. It'd be much faster with a grinder, or even a cup brush on a drill.

I've never seen a buildup, but you can definitely tell where there's deposits (everywhere, at first) and where you've cleaned. I've done it twice now and it's worked great, went from wobbly brakes to smooth each time.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Where is this "buildup" of brake material? Shouldn't I be able to see it with my bare eyes? Some brake cleaner and Brillo pad clean it right up?

-just curious

This should help explain it a bit:

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

It's not like droplets of oil on a plate, most times the rotors start looking glazed and then start getting high spots that are easily seen when doing a runout test (we're talking thousandths of an inch here.) What happens basically is the pad material is vitrifies (basically it melts and hardens again) onto the very porous cast iron rotor surface. Trying to clean it with sand paper/wire brush is probably not going to help much in this case. Mostly because you can't evenly sand/wire brush the rotor, thus increasing the likelihood that the rotors are uneven; also the pad material becomes harder after it vitrifies (think clay before and after it is fired into say a ceramic plate.)

 

[MikeInNH]

Yes rotors don't warp...but the warping is THEE MOST COMMON TERM used when describing this. You go to any auto parts store or any mechanic...and when you say the rotors are warped - they'll know exactly what you're talking about.

 

[ghs215]

This should help explain it a bit:

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

Wow! That was some intense information. Who wudda thought?!?

Ok, so what is the proper "break-in" for standard discs and ceramic pads?

10 start and rapid stops from 40mph to 5mph? I dont think the cops would understand 75mph to 5mph breaking on the freeway eep:

 

[JeffMerr]

I don't have access to the tools or anything to take the rotors off and take a grinder/wheel to them. Would my bed bet be getting them turned or just buying new ones? Looks like rotors are fairly inexpensive at 80.00 for a set.

Thanks

.....

 

[BlackWorksInc]

.....

If you don't have the tools to do the work, you'll need to get a shop to turn or replace the rotors for you. Honestly, I'd just have them measure the rotors and make a judgement call on whether to turn them or replace them.

Wow! That was some intense information. Who wudda thought?!?

Ok, so what is the proper "break-in" for standard discs and ceramic pads?

10 start and rapid stops from 40mph to 5mph? I dont think the cops would understand 75mph to 5mph breaking on the freeway eep:

I believe most brake pad companies have break in instructions, so whatever they say to do I guess? To be honest, not a lot of people do the "proper" break in procedure...

 

[kacper]

Just replaced my calipers as I have noticed some pistons stuck. Before I replaced them i could feel pulsing while braking. Right now pulsing is gone but my steering wheel is shaking a bit so I guess my rotors are bad?

Spend over 700$ since last year on that brake system.
All 4 corners new pads calipers and rotors December 2013. Today I spend another 320 for another set of calipers. God damn toyota brakes!

 

[Jeremy556]

Wow! That was some intense information. Who wudda thought?!?

Ok, so what is the proper "break-in" for standard discs and ceramic pads?

10 start and rapid stops from 40mph to 5mph? I dont think the cops would understand 75mph to 5mph breaking on the freeway eep:

Mentioned in the article - 10 cycles of hard braking from 60 to 5 and quickly accelerating to back to 60. Don't come to a complete stop at any time, then drive for a while afterward to let the brakes cool.

 

[JeffMerr]

If you don't have the tools to do the work, you'll need to get a shop to turn or replace the rotors for you. Honestly, I'd just have them measure the rotors and make a judgement call on whether to turn them or replace them..

To be honest by the time a shop gets my car in the air and removes the tires and measure each rotor I'm probably at 80 in labor. Sounds like I might as well just buy new rotors up front. Any suggestions on a good one for a daily driver? Also as I mentioned before I thought Wagner thermoquiet ceramic pads were really good? Should I go with something different?

Thanks