Warping Rotos, Stock and Tundra Upgrade

[gamefreakgc]

The bed in process is something I will most likely handle tomorrow as well. I spent most of the day today replacing the rotors and brakes, and ended up replacing a caliper as well. ( All stock )

I just got this 4Runner a few months back so I am still learning a lot about it.

For instance today when pulling off the rotors, they were stuck on there pretty good and took a hammer to knock them off. Then it seems someone replaced the left front caliper and brake pads, as there was still a decent bit of pad left in there, but on the right side the caliper was completely rusted, took a cheater bar to break the bolts, even with PB Blaster, and the brake pads were disintegrating. It appears whoever did the brakes before only did the left and not the right.

I am still figuring out the best way to bleed the brakes and full flush. I did a full flush today as well but feel something is off.

If I did this part wrong please let me know.

Two man method
Depressed brakes 40 times, ignition off.
Ignition on
Open valve, bleed till no bubbles.
Close valve.
Bleed/Flush Order: Right Rear, Left Rear, Front Right, Front Left.
The fluid was olive oil colored on all but the front left which came out really dark. The brake pads and rotors definitely need a proper bedding done.

Did I miss anything with the brake bleed steps? I feel even though I bled the brakes and I could not see anymore bubbles, the pedal still is not as responsive and quick as I would like. Also may need to check the rear brakes to see if they need adjusting, which most likely will need to be fully replaced as well.

You did it right. The sloppy brake feeling is because the brakes have not been bedded yet. During the process a small amount of pad material is transferred to the rotor and creates that firm, "grabby" brake feel.

 

[Krommeweg]

Two man method
Depressed brakes 40 times, ignition off.
Ignition on
Open valve, bleed till no bubbles.
Close valve.
Bleed/Flush Order: Right Rear, Left Rear, Front Right, Front Left.
The fluid was olive oil colored on all but the front left which came out really dark. The brake pads and rotors definitely need a proper bedding done.

Did I miss anything with the brake bleed steps? I feel even though I bled the brakes and I could not see anymore bubbles, the pedal still is not as responsive and quick as I would like. Also may need to check the rear brakes to see if they need adjusting, which most likely will need to be fully replaced as well.

Your method looks correct to me. Check out http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/217550-3rd-gen-toyota-4runner-diy-videos.html these tutorials. These guys in California do a great job walking you through everything.

Here is their tutorial for a full brake service.

If you see any off-colored fluid when you're bleeding the system, you need to stop bleeding and flush again. Maybe check for rusted lines, bad connections, etc. Then bleed. Then run the car around the block, and bleed again if you want to be absolutely sure. ...it's tedious, but it's worth it. So is bedding-in! Learn from my mistakes.

 

[AscendedWarrior]

Sorry to hijack this thread but for some reason I cannot post my own question.

Yesterday I changed the brake fluid in my 4Runner and I filled it up. This morning the level was still full. Started it and drive it a while and the level went down. When I went to check it again a few hours later it was full again. Made a trip to the store and when I got home it was low again.

Is this normal operation of the braking system or should it stay full consistently?

I appreciate the feedback.

Also the brakes were fully flushed and I did have to replace a caliper but I went through 64oz of fluid. Wanted to make sure I got all the bubbles out. Maybe a bit overkill with that amount but the new caliper took up a bit as well.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Sorry to hijack this thread but for some reason I cannot post my own question.

Yesterday I changed the brake fluid in my 4Runner and I filled it up. This morning the level was still full. Started it and drive it a while and the level went down. When I went to check it again a few hours later it was full again. Made a trip to the store and when I got home it was low again.

Is this normal operation of the braking system or should it stay full consistently?

I appreciate the feedback.

Also the brakes were fully flushed and I did have to replace a caliper but I went through 64oz of fluid. Wanted to make sure I got all the bubbles out. Maybe a bit overkill with that amount but the new caliper took up a bit as well.

Should stay full. How did you change the fluid? Did you ever let the master cylinder go too low? Grab yourself another bottle (a smaller one) and do another round of bleeding because you may have had a "pocket" of air that the fluid finally filled.

The one other thing that it could be is that all your brakes were not fully engaged on their respective rotors or drums and the fluid finally seated the brakes and are in their proper position. See, as your brake linings wear, that brake fluid "takes up the slack" A properly filled and functional system really should never need fluid added. When it gets low, chances are your brake linings (probably front) need attention and when you press in the pistons to make room for the new linings the fluid will backup back into the master cylinder reservoir. If you topped up the fluid all the time, when it comes time to do brake linings, you'll need to suck out the excess fluid.

 

[AntleredRuin]

I did the 199m Tundra rotors because I have 16" rims and do not like the idea of grinding them down for clearance. When they were working, my runner braked beauuuutifully. More than enough braking for the weight of my rig.

For what it's worth, 16" wheels fit the 231mm caliper just fine. It's the 15" wheels you either need to grind or get spacers for.

 

[thegipper]

Don't quote me on this but I'm pretty sure the 231mm calipers do not fit the 3 spoke 16" wheels without either grinding on the wheels or using wheel spacers.

 

[AscendedWarrior]

Thanks for filling me in on that. I checked it again this morning and same scenario.

I will grab another bottle and do another cycle of bleeding the brakes. The pedal isnt as firm as I would like after replacing brakes so hopefully it is just air in the system.

I made sure the level never went past low when flushing the brakes the other day. Definitely will see how t is after that. I thought the level should stay relatively the same until the pass start to wear.

I will update once I do the flush and see how it is.

When I flush it again should I do the same procedure with pumping the brakes 40 times then with ignition off, with ignition in on position then bleed the brakes?