Water/coolant temp

T4R-DDOGG

New member
Hi Guys,

just curious regarding what the Water/coolant you guys see on your scangauge on avg?

I just put the charger in and I don't know if my mind is playing tricks on me but the fWT on my scangauge seems a bit higher than normal. I've seen it go as high as 207... on avg it sits around 202.

What do you guys get?


thanks,
 
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I have a new radiator, hoses and coolant and I see 195-198 sometimes 200 but it comes right back down, out side temps 95-110 where i live in the summer. Temps getting past 200 is a bit high but still ok. Higher temps are a sign of running lean. Did you put in 1 step colder twin tip spark plugs are you running the highest octane fuel you can get at the pumps? Did you do the 7th injector and have it tuned? All very important when supercharging, you need to at the least do the pkugs and high octane fuel. Oh im not supercharged, not yet.
 
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Hi Guys,

just curious regarding what the Water/coolant you guys see on your scangauge on avg?

I just put the charger in and I don't know if my mind is playing tricks on me but the fWT on my scangauge seems a bit higher than normal. I've seen it go as high as 207... on avg it sits around 202.

What do you guys get?


thanks,

This is exactly what mine shows on my 2001.
 
Normal 5VZ temp range is 185-205. Stock engines *should* be running at 195 optimally. There are a few reasons the running temp can increase with age. The radiator can lose some if it's heat transfer coefficient. The coolant can get buildup of gunk and reduce it's efficiency.

Superchargers do increase the temp..

You can run a lower temp thermostat to bring the temps down, also you can add a bottle of Redline's Water Wetter.

From the buyers guide regarding thermostats, numbers are assuming a new radiator and clean coolant.
Thermostat
The stock thermostat is rated at 180* F and keeps the engine around 193-195*. However, The stock thermostat is known to be unable to keep the engine in the optimum range of temperatures with a supercharger. With a supercharger, you will notice temps above 200* very often.

Stant 14077 is a 170* thermostat and will maintain a cool engine despite whatever high performance runs you are doing on the supercharger. With a supercharger, expect to see temps of 185-190*

The TRD thermostat is a 160* and many people recommend running this ONLY if you do a very accurate tune and are trying for maximum performance. Be cautious with this one. You will often see the engine running around 175-180*.
 
Thanks guys, Not sure if I every put my year on my build or in my signature. i'll make sure to do that. 2000 4runner limited 4x4 and now S/C!

Yeah, I have the cold plugs in from URD with the 7th injector. Coolant was changed out less than 5k miles ago with nearly full maintenance work because I just want to get everything done just in case. I am running 228K miles now, so not sure if its issue or not, but shouldn't I don't think.

Yeah, thinking about getting the lower thermostat just to have protection. I am in Texas which is starting to get into the 90s. But should this be any concern for me seeing this high temp on the gauge or I guess the real question, is this something I should address as an issue?

I have attached pic.
 

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In that climate, I would definitely run the Stant theromostat. Also don't forget to install it with the Jiggle valve at the bottom (6 o'clock position).

Since you need to change the coolant to install a thermostat you might as well add a bottle of Redline water wetter while you are doing it. I did on my last truck and still never crossed over 200* even when wheeling in moab in june.
 
205-207 is a bit warm but not dangerous.

In fact the stock temp guage doesn't even go into the red until after hitting 225 or 230 F.

When I had air in my system it was running at 205 all the time. It would flux between 199 to 207.

Now that all the air is properly burped it runs 185 to 199 depending on the conditions.

Original radiator?

When was the last time someone worked on the cooling system?
 
Mine is the orginal radiator, I just have the tranny part bypassed. I know it needs a coolant flush too, its been awhile. I plan to do that when I come due for a timing belt change here in about 3k miles. I'll probably replace the radiator then too just for good measure.
 
I ran 185-190 before supercharger. After install and 170* thermostat it runs exactly the same. I've yet to see it breach 195.
 
I ran 185-190 before supercharger. After install and 170* thermostat it runs exactly the same. I've yet to see it breach 195.

That's because the thermostat doesn't affect the HIGH temperature (unless it's bad); it only sets the lower limit (i.e. it won't run LESS than 170* when it's warmed up).
 
Thanks guys.. i'll go ahead and get the stat replaced and try out that Redline WaterWetter. Even possibly fork money on new radiator... i'll think about that one.
 
These are cheap, plastic and aluminum radiators. In my mind, they're disposable. Not like the old, solid brass jobs.
 
In that climate, I would definitely run the Stant theromostat. Also don't forget to install it with the Jiggle valve at the bottom (6 o'clock position).

Since you need to change the coolant to install a thermostat you might as well add a bottle of Redline water wetter while you are doing it. I did on my last truck and still never crossed over 200* even when wheeling in moab in june.

Ripcord,

I didnt see a jiggle valve on my tstat. I bought the stand 14077 scrunner12 suggested. Ive read other people on tacomaworld having the same issues where after installing the stant they actually ran a lil hotter so they ended up drilling a hole where the jiggle valve would normally be on oem tstats.

Thanks guys.. i'll go ahead and get the stat replaced and try out that Redline WaterWetter. Even possibly fork money on new radiator... i'll think about that one.

So were you able to resolve your issues? Im also battling an issue where i think my rig is running hotter than it should it. Last month it also overheated from sitting so i ended up flushing and refilling the rad, new stant 14077 tstat, hoses, b&m tranny cooler to bypass the rad, new oem rad cap and radiator, new oem fan clutch. My gauge sits exactly half way and has yet to overheat but makes me nervous. Just ordered a scan gauge II so i can monitor temps better before i install my supercharger.

If the temps continue to rise im gunna do the tb/wp. Im hoping its not a HG issue but i dont see any signs of HG failure.
 
This is exactly what mine shows on my 2001.

Ripcord,

I didnt see a jiggle valve on my tstat. I bought the stand 14077 scrunner12 suggested. Ive read other people on tacomaworld having the same issues where after installing the stant they actually ran a lil hotter so they ended up drilling a hole where the jiggle valve would normally be on oem tstats.



So were you able to resolve your issues? Im also battling an issue where i think my rig is running hotter than it should it. Last month it also overheated from sitting so i ended up flushing and refilling the rad, new stant 14077 tstat, hoses, b&m tranny cooler to bypass the rad, new oem rad cap and radiator, new oem fan clutch. My gauge sits exactly half way and has yet to overheat but makes me nervous. Just ordered a scan gauge II so i can monitor temps better before i install my supercharger.

If the temps continue to rise im gunna do the tb/wp. Im hoping its not a HG issue but i dont see any signs of HG failure.

Here's my personal experience after doing some work on the 4Runner this weekend. I installed a new timing belt, tensioner, waterpump, radiator, and thermostat. My old thermostat was installed upside down (jiggle valve at 12 oclock) and my coolant hadn't been changed in 90k I believe... Before all this I was running 205ish, and now I'm running 186-190 on the dot, the only time it goes over is if I shut it off for 5 minutes and it has time to heat soak, but as soon as it gets turned back on it goes back down.
 
Once it warms up mine fluctuates between 184 and 188. No higher, no lower, and that's in temperatures ranging from 20-100 degrees F. If I saw 207 on my truck I'd be certain something wasn't working like it should be.
 

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