Waxing After Clay Bar

[TripleTS_T4R]

No shortcuts

Well someone told me about this product #topcoat-f11 and I was like no way. If you ever heard of this product, again no way. Most polishes these days are pretty good and just require a little elbow pressure and focus so just thought I would share the knowledge. Happy detailing to you all!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBCGgUgvYs0

 

[Redcamaro72]

Do you use the same clay bar after a few uses or do you throw away and get new? I throw away after 3 or 4 jobs do to the fact that the clay bar has a lot of contaminants in it. Just my theory.

 

[TripleTS_T4R]

Do you use the same clay bar after a few uses or do you throw away and get new? I throw away after 3 or 4 jobs do to the fact that the clay bar has a lot of contaminants in it. Just my theory.

Well, it depends yes on the heaviness of use. I really don’t throw them away unless
Dropped
Using on multiple cars
Extreme contaminates build up from tar/sap/etc

What I use the old ones that pass 3-4 times of use is on spots like near the mud guards, lower door panels. Then, I use older piece on wheels ONLY!

Clay bar is something of like a scalpel and should only be used under extreme conditions. On personal vehicles I use clay bar maybe every 2 years. I keep a few layers on polish and sealant on my paint throughout the year due to the beating it takes from sun, rain, and mud/debris on trails.

Before doing this one should sit and plan their vehicle clean and paint correction regimen.

Hope that helps! Happy cleaning, paint correcting, polishing, waxing!


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[sam-sack]

As a pro detailer, I rinse after claying and use an Isopropyl alcohol solution to prep the paint for the wax. Surface prep is 90% of the key to success in auto detailing.

 

[knjbsc]

I agree with the post above, prep and keeping up with washing is the best prep. I have had great success with 3M Marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax. This goes on easy, comes off complete with micro fiber rags and looks great. Being designed for marine, it handles really tough conditions well. This was suggested to me several years ago by a detail guy and I have not been disappointed or found anything better. I use Adams and Chemical Guy products with success, but for pure waxing the 3M product has been great.

 

[F80ZCP]

As a pro detailer, I rinse after claying and use an Isopropyl alcohol solution to prep the paint for the wax. Surface prep is 90% of the key to success in auto detailing.

+1. The importance is that you have a well prepped surface after claying--this could be achieved by a wash, post-clay wipe down, or both. I try to do both if time permits (post-clay wash, then wipe down).

If you're committed to using a wax as opposed to a polymer or ceramic coating, you could follow this process:

Wash
Clay
Wash
IPA wipe down
Polish (optional, depending on condition of paint and/or personal preference)
Sealant (optional)
Wax

Depending on the level of contamination, you might be able to consolidate the first few steps by using a clay wash mitt.

While Meguiars makes great products, I personally prefer Collinite 845 wax.

 

[Rapid_Amble]

+1. The importance is that you have a well prepped surface after claying--this could be achieved by a wash, post-clay wipe down, or both. I try to do both if time permits (post-clay wash, then wipe down).

If you're committed to using a wax as opposed to a polymer or ceramic coating, you could follow this process:

Wash
Clay
Wash
IPA wipe down
Polish (optional, depending on condition of paint and/or personal preference)
Sealant (optional)
Wax

Depending on the level of contamination, you might be able to consolidate the first few steps by using a clay wash mitt.

While Meguiars makes great products, I personally prefer Collinite 845 wax.

I would never have thought to use IPA on the paint. Seems like it would have too strong of a drying effect and suck some life out of the paint/clear coat. I guess not though! But I won’t try it, my routine seems to work fine without as I try to minimize steps

 

[F80ZCP]

I would never have thought to use IPA on the paint. Seems like it would have too strong of a drying effect and suck some life out of the paint/clear coat. I guess not though! But I won’t try it, my routine seems to work fine without as I try to minimize steps

Sorry for the late response. I should clarify that IPA is often diluted and not used at full strength.

There are ready to use solutions made specifically for detailing that can be used instead of a diluted IPA solution, such as CarPro Eraser.

 

[eddielasvegas]

Can someone offer some suggestions on this? Looking for product recommendations and tips.

Thanks all.

Wash (two bucket method using Dawn)
Clay (will use a clay bar and I got this)
Wash (new water and Dawn)
IPA wipe down (what % IPA? How much to dilute?)
Polish (What brand?)
Sealant (What brand?)
Wax (going with 3M 09030 Marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax)

Any sealant/protector/extender needed after the Wax step?


Eddie

 

[MSRP.]

Sorry for the late response. I should clarify that IPA is often diluted and not used at full strength.

There are ready to use solutions made specifically for detailing that can be used instead of a diluted IPA solution, such as CarPro Eraser.

AKA, do the same thing but pay 10x the cost.

Can someone offer some suggestions on this? Looking for product recommendations and tips.

Thanks all.

Wash (two bucket method using Dawn)
Clay (will use a clay bar and I got this)
Wash (new water and Dawn)
IPA wipe down (what % IPA? How much to dilute?)
Polish (What brand?)
Sealant (What brand?)
Wax (going with 3M 09030 Marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax)

Any sealant/protector/extender needed after the Wax step?


Eddie

Go on youtube, there's 20 ways of saying the same thing.
IPA wipe down not really necessary after you clay, before you polish.

Polish/compounding without a machine is just about pointless.
Sealant/Wax are just about interchangeable, you don't really need both.
No experience with your 3M wax, if it lasts at least 6 months, you're good. If that's all the durability you get from it, you can get the same results with 80% less work in a hybrid ceramic coating/Si02 type of coating. Again, lots of vendors producing a very similar product. Most are under $20 for a 16oz bottle.

 

[bob3dsf]

Go on youtube and look up " Sweet Project Cars." That guy gets some amazing results from some very basic stuff.

 

[RonMAIDEN]

The time wax lasts depends on how much you actually drive it,garage or no garage and is it driven in a lot of inclement weather.

 

[MSRP.]

Go on youtube and look up " Sweet Project Cars." That guy gets some amazing results from some very basic stuff.

Correct, 90% of it is in the prep with machine polishing, but if the OP question inquiring about Mother's clay bar kit.. I'm betting he's not the type to buy a $200 polisher and $100 in supplies...

The time wax lasts depends on how much you actually drive it,garage or no garage and is it driven in a lot of inclement weather.

Kinda true, but buying the right wax/sealant will ensure durability. Some are only designed for a few weeks/first rainfall. Anything beyond a month will most likely be a hybrid/synthetic product, and not 100% carnauba wax.

 

[catrains]

why are you using dawn dish soap ? dish soap is an acid . use auto finish soap products.

in your area the high heat will vaporize the paste wax in about 2 hrs around 12 noon.

if your paint looks dull then the dawn soap killed the finish..

use the 3m polish with a low speed buffer 700rpm and a black pad.. to a section at a time light force on the paint.. then wash the black pad and do another section.. after the polishing then put on synthetic wax sealer.lasts longer than paste wax use the clear not white ..

2001 is the paint original ? if it does not look good after the polishing then need a paint job .. also you may need the interior seats covering replaced .

 

[Nashvillerunner]

Do not use Dawn on your paint. Go and purchase Purple Power Vehicle and Boat Wash. It is very good removing road grime, road salt and traffic film. Next just clay or a clay mitt and then rinse and use IPA wipe down and then polish and seal with a sealant and the top with your favorite wax. I am currently using the Meguiars Ultimate Fast Finish and Collinite 845. Go on YouTube and check out Wilson Auto Detailing, Dallas Paint Correction, Larry with Ammo NYC, Fab Automotive, Darren with Auto Fetish and Brian with Apex Detail. They are professional detailers and you can learn lots. Don’t listen to much from The Seeet Project Cars.

 

[Jumpmaster112]

I do have a black vehicle purchased it in nov 1995 . it is a 1996 chev Impala SS..

the paint is in great condition as I use micro fiber washing/waxing cloths no sponges.. also I put on the water hose a water filter .

perhaps every 2 years I will use final finish polish with a black foam pad on a variable speed buffer @700 RPM slow speed and very lightly float over the surface .. I spray water with a spray bottle on the polish if it dries as I polish the surface .. then wipe down with the micro fiber cloths .. when the cloth gets dirty need another cloth and wash them properly so they do the job...

on the car washing using Meguiars gold soap .. then if needed I use a clear synthetic protection ..

when I wash it the mit floats over the surface like on glass and the dirty comes off easy no rubbing ..

perhaps I will post the picture of my 22yr old black ride..
The problem I do have since my black paint is still so good , those damn Turkeys will at times peck on my car since they see themselves since it is like a mirror ..

so this is my 23 year old Impala SS

Dude- respect! that's sweet paint!

 

[drei4runner29]

I know this is kind of late, but anyone try out Duragloss products? I've just used it recently w/ my 4runner and my wife's Sequoia and it turned out great.

These are the products I used w/ a Griot's DA polisher.

16 oz. - Marine & RV Polish

Total Performance Polish)

Clear Coat Polish)

Polish Bonding Agent)

Aquawax)

I interchange between the 501 and 105 as far as my polisher and I mix it w/ the PBA (polishing bonding agent) on a 4:1 ratio mix of 4 parts either 501 or 105 to 1 part PBA.

Next I'll mix in another separate bottle a 4:1 ratio of 101 CCP (clear coat polish) and PBA to give it that wet look.

Last step is to top it off w/ their spray wax Aquawax and I'll use that in between washes to clean my vehicle.

I also have Collinite #845 and will try using that this fall/winter along w/ my Duragloss.

 

[drei4runner29]

This was a few months ago when I detailed her Sequoia. Took me three days to complete about 7-8 hours a day. Her car hasn’t been detailed in over 4-5 years let alone waxed.

I also used the 105/PBA mix to shine up her rims and glad to say, the brake dust hasn’t stuck as much to the rims compared to just washing and drying it.

I also used that same mix to polish the windshield and the rest of the windows and it worked well. It helped bead the water and expel it while driving, kind of like RainX


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[T4RUNNER02]

Collinite 476 after claying is the best stuff out there. Lasts a very along time but I nevertheless wax every 2 months. Have been using Collinite 476 for 17 years

 

[sunliner]

I just discovered Collinite when I was getting ready to detail my new 4R. very easy to use and the shine is noticeably better than anything else I've used. only been a week so time will tell how it last. One of the cars we used it on is always garaged when home and the other two alternate a spot in the garage, so we'll see