I'll mirror what others have said.
USAA uses Zag.com as their engine for pricing, so you can go direct to <a target="_blank" href="http://www.zag.com">ZAG.com</a> and build pricing without first exposing your name and contact information.
The program basically works kinda like costco.com works but allows dealers to post their best pricing, usually under invoice. You'll deal with fleet managers but the one caveat is the pricing doesn't mean as much for harder to find models. I was quoted $1200 under invoice but the model I wanted wasn't available. All the dealers contacted me within 30 minutes and the guy with the highest price, who was also closest to me turned pissy on me when I told him what the others quotes were. Hey, he asked.
I would recommend following the process others have suggested and hit up the dealers within a certain area. Poll them all for best pricing, contact the fleet manager or internet sales manager (usually the same guy). If you get pawned off on a salesman, move on, his job is to sell you a car now, not in 10-20 days. Your round 2 is to expose best pricing in writing to everyone and tell everyone when you will buy, and ask again for best pricing. You could go round 3 or more with just a handful, but anything more than 3 rounds, dealers will drop off thinking they will never sell you a vehicle, but will spend alot of time talking about.
Don't focus on the whole deal, focus on the final price of the vehicle and what they will give you for the trade-in. Dealers use the 4-square method to get you focused on monthly payment and allow them to get you to ignore the bottom line, which is how much you're really paying. Look it up on the internet or check this one out <a target="_blank" href="http://www.autoblog.com/2007/04/02/beware-of-the-four-square-rip-off/">here</a>. I personally wouldn't print out the article and show it to them, dealers are typically full of loser scumbags and will rip you off the second they can figure you out. The smarter scumbags (future con-men) are the managers and those you will get passed on to to close the sale. Don't give them more information then you have to, they will use it against you in a second, of course while smiling and looking for ways to create a fast bond with you.
I just had a dealer offer me $6k for a 2002, 91k mile great condition, fully loaded Lexus GS430 in silver / black. When I showed them the pre-printed KBB and NADA pricing for good condition trade-in at over 9.5k, they brought in another manager who got very aggressive and wouldn't stop talking payment and interest rate. I left.
Bottom line:
Start on the internet, let them know when you are ready to buy, you want final pricing in writing, how long the offer is good for and when you expect a response. You'll get non-responses. Chances are, they won't play, so consider this vetting from round one.
Try to sell your truck on your own, be patient, if you can take the trade-in out of the deal, you stand a better chance of not getting ripped off. I personally think this can be worth 2K usually but look at Autotrader.com and be realistic about how long stuff takes to sell (you can the number of views on private party vehicles, 100's of views means its been sitting a while) and the price you could sell for. Carmax is another option, although they will typically quote between the two, but is fair if you're in a hurry.
Only talk final price, (either before tax and license and others, or out the door). They don't like this, so when they ask about financing, simply tell them what your credit score range is and that you'll explore financing with them if the price of the truck is decent. Same applies to the down payment, who cares how much you'll put down if the price of the truck isnt right. If you have great credit, tell em your score, if its above 700, they know they can finance you easily, but they also won't try to jerk you around too much (usually).
Go in with your own financing, so you can lead them on (like they do to you) and let them think they have a shot at financing you. If their deal sucks, you have your own financing and you can close the deal and bolt. if you get finance with them, get an option contract that allows you to get your own financing with a certain number of days, 3-5 is the norm. Do not talk financing, monthly payments, interest rate or anything else until the price of the truck is nailed down and solid.
Only deal with the fleet manager. Don't deal with sales people, most of them will pass you off quickly to another manager who is more skilled at closing. If he isn't making progress, you may get another guy to come in and work on you. If you are feeling pressured, move on, don't let them play games. When I left the last dealer, they were pissed. They threw 3 guys at me in 15-20 minutes and then treated me poorly as I walked out the door. I don't blame them, its their training, they are scumbags and trained to be bigger ones by their managers. Turn over at dealers is huge and most guys selling you a truck know less about it them you.
Sorry this got so long...
. It has the moonroof and JBL. I have only 61K on it. The dealer only wanted to offer me $14K for a trade. I almost fell out of my chair as I thought it would be higher. I did get them to go to $16K but then they obviously took nothing off the sticker at that point. The 2011 SR5 I was looking at stickered for $37XXX, don't remember exactly, but it had the leather package and some other stuff. They didn't have the color that I wanted and its slim pickings around here too for any Runners. I was looking for the Magnetic Gray and they were able to find one for me. 
