What coolant to use?

I've been using the Peak Global Lifetime for a few years now with very good results. It's HOAT technology ethanol glycol that is free of silicates and phosphates. It can be mixed with any color antifreeze/coolant in a 3rd Gen T4R. The only place that I've been able to find it in undiluted, full strength has been at NAPA. Once a year, usually in the fall, I drain the radiator and refill with 1 Gallon of Full Strength Peak and 1 Gallon of distilled water. I empty the overflow tank and rinse well. Any additional fluid needed in the overflow tank and radiator I use the Peak Global Lifetime in a 50/50 to top off the system or the tank.

IMO...The Peak Global Lifetime is some pretty good stuff for around $17 a gallon, full strength.
 
When I replaced my engine and radiator I went with Evans Waterless coolant. I liked the idea that you get a lot less pressure on your system, and it doesnt cause any electrolysis. I feel pretty confident with the new radiator and Evans that I wont need to worry about the pink milkshake ever again. I may still add a secondary transmission cooler, but just for additoonal cooling, not to bypass the stock transmission cooler.
 
I also say buy the actual coolant and mix it 50/50 with distilled water and save money.

Just to elaborate on this- coolant needs to be properly mixed to ensure maximum cooling and anti-freeze effectiveness.
When he says by the "actual" coolant, that means the concentrate; the stuff that isn't "pre-mixed".
Don't just buy any coolant and mix it 50/50- make sure it's concentrate.
Another thing worth mentioning is the use of distilled water. This is also important to use for your 50/50 mix, or for any added water, for that matter.
Just wanted to kind of echo a couple good points [emoji1360]
That said, I use Toyota.
 
Just buy the Toyota red coolant and be done with it. It's not that expensive. Or at least get the Zerek toyota compatible import stuff, you can save a few bucks with that stuff.

But seriously though, if your reservoir was empty and you routinely get your temp gauge up 3/4 of the way, you need to add coolant ASAP. You are running a serious risk of royally screwing up your truck. The heads on these engines warp relatively easily and if you do that, you're screwed.

You also need to monitor the levels after you fill it up. That coolant went somewhere....
 
I had a bad overheat last summer - got into the red before I pulled over. Not sure why - suspect fan clutch. What are symptoms of a warped head?
 
I had a bad overheat last summer - got into the red before I pulled over. Not sure why - suspect fan clutch. What are symptoms of a warped head?

Top right corner a box that says "Google Custom Search" Enter your question in here...click "Search"...and you will have pages of answers.
 
I don't know why everyone thinks it's so expensive. When I did my radiator swap, I used Toyota Fluid and don't quote me, but I'm pretty sure I only had to buy one jug and mixed it 50/50 with distilled water and that filled up my system. It's worth the peace of mind for such a small price difference.
 
I just purchased a 97 with 212k miles. I ordered a new radiator and will replace shortly. There is green coolant in it now, and coolant is low. My question is:

Is it ok or recommended to to switch to red coolant after I replace the radiator? (I don't care about the relatively insignificant price difference.) Or is the house out of the proverbial barn as it has been run with 200k with green? (assumption).

Thx.

Ian
 
Ok, here's my thoughts on this subject. I take long trips with my rig to go camping and mountain biking. If I'm out in BFE and I blow a coolant hose and can either limp into the nearest small town or get towed to the nearest small town that has an auto parts store, am I going to find Toyota Red Coolant on the shelf in that store? Uhh, NO! So, you're then forced to mix your special fancy red coolant with that horrible inferior green coolant. Oh the horrors! Is it going to gel up? Probably not. Is it going to hurt the protective properties of the coolant? Maybe.

I already carry enough shit when I take road trips. Do I now want to add a jug of Toyota Red concentrate and a jug of distilled water to my list of things to carry around? Not really. It's pretty rare to have a hose burst on you especially if you've done preventative maintenance and replaced old hoses, but I figured I'd chime in with my thoughts on the subject.
 
Toyota Red is the only coolant to use. If you use anything other than the TOYOTA Red coolant within a year you will have problems. ONLY OEM!!!
 
Toyota Red is the only coolant to use. If you use anything other than the TOYOTA Red coolant within a year you will have problems. ONLY OEM!!!

Baloney. While there are some things to stay away from (Dexcool=BAD) and anything with silicates, your basic universal green will do just fine if you keep to an aggressive change interval. To say you will have problems within a year is ridiculous, unless you drive 50k in a year. Basic green anti-corrosion tech is fine up to 20-25k. Anything more the more advanced Toyota tech is called for.
 
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Careful, someone is going to take you seriously!

Edit: Too late!

I figured he knew better. I was thinking more of random people searching and reading the site. Some of them MIGHT take a post like that seriously.
 
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Baloney. While there are some things to stay away from (Dexcool=BAD) and anything with silicates, your basic universal green will do just fine if you keep to an aggressive change interval. To say you will have problems within a year is ridiculous, unless you drive 50k in a year. Basic green anti-corrosion tech is fine up to 20-25k. Anything more the more advanced Toyota tech is called for.

I've always stuck with a 30k interval for coolant but we're splitting hairs here. This is based on the vehicles I've owned in the past that came with the basic green, non-fancy Toyota coolant, and the suggested interval in the owners manual was 30,000 miles.

The key is to renew your coolant on a regular basis just like all the other fluids for the vehicle if you want to avoid problems and have your vehicle last you for a long time and be as trouble free as possible.
 
Baloney. While there are some things to stay away from (Dexcool=BAD) and anything with silicates, your basic universal green will do just fine if you keep to an aggressive change interval. To say you will have problems within a year is ridiculous, unless you drive 50k in a year. Basic green anti-corrosion tech is fine up to 20-25k. Anything more the more advanced Toyota tech is called for.

Hey Bro...I fish a lot... In angler terms....you swallowed it all the way to your ass so no need to set the hook. LOL Just having a little fun.
 

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