How much would you ask to discount the asking price on a otherwise clean low mileage 4th gen if the 4wd lo will not engage? I have an offer of a $2K drop on an under 100k mile SR5. Ebay actuators look to go for around $500. Has anyone gone that route? Any other possible hidden hazards that I should be looking for with the beeping 4lo? Is $2K too little or it enough to deal with the possibility of a major repair.
What discount for non working 4wd lo?
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AuSeeker
Elite Member
Go to a Toyota dealer tell them about the issue on the T4R and ask for an estimate on having the actuator replaced, then you will know how much to try and discount their asking price, then go and show the seller the estimate and make them an offer, this way both you and the seller will know what it really cost to have it repaired correctly.
If you make a deal and get it you can then decide of you want to have the dealer to the repair or go the cheaper route of your choice.
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More background
I know that a dealer actuator replacement runs $3K+. I also know I may be able to free up the actuator myself. What I don't know is what is the success rate on freeing up stuck actuators. And when the big hammer method does not work, do people go the eBay replacement route. Looking for some input on anyone who has gone down this road.
I know that a dealer actuator replacement runs $3K+. I also know I may be able to free up the actuator myself. What I don't know is what is the success rate on freeing up stuck actuators. And when the big hammer method does not work, do people go the eBay replacement route. Looking for some input on anyone who has gone down this road.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
My reaosn for posting my advice is that you can tell the seller it's $3000+ job to fix it, will they beleive that, who knows, BUT if you have a estimate you have a better chance to get them to reduce the price much lower.
Also how much you can talked them down is depending on the asking price, if they have it priced at it what it worth with everything working correctly then you you need to talk them down close to the $3000+, if they have already deducted some for the issue then you need to take that into consideration as well.
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Drunner97
New member
You have to drop the case (most shops will drop the transmission + case, but it's doable just the case) crack it open, replace the actuator and hope everything is still lined up and timed correctly. I replaced my entire case + actuator for a used unit and only paid 650 for and the time it took to swap it with myself and a buddy.
Drunner97
New member
Shop around. It took me about 2 weeks before a decently priced one popped up locally enough for me to drive and pick it up. I ended up doing a 4 hour round trip drive to get it, but it was cheaper than the ones I was seeing online with shipping even after gas.
Take as much as you can off the price because you won't have to replace the actuator at all! This is a classic Toyota problem--if the actuator isn't engaged on a regular basis, it will get frozen/stuck. I had the same issue with 4H engaging but 4L not engaging. Waited until a hot 75-degree day and went for a long drive, trying to activate 4L about 20 times before it finally engaged! Now it works fine. Good luck, OP.
YotaDriver
New member
99% of people won't even ever need 4lo, so just because YOU want it so you can go wheeling or whatever, the rig will run and drive perfectly fine without it. If I were the seller, I'd give you exactly $0 off for this.
Defcon_ORV
New member
I just picked up a used 4Runner last week. Same issue with the 4 lo not engaging, just a blinking light. Ended up taking about 2 days and maybe 120 cycles of the switch (25 in the morning, 25 after work) and finally on the 3rd morning a little thud, and it was in 4 lo. Been engaging flawlessly for last week after that. Not sure about the success rate, but from my research it seems that with a little patience they will break free. Just an issue of the actuator not being regularly exercised and freezing up. That being said, I still used it as an excuse to work the price down.
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Terminator03
New member
While I agree with you that most will never “need”, or use 4 low, I would absolutely use it as a negotiation tool since it is a factory function that SHOULD work. Why would anyone pay full retail for non functioning options? That being said, fortunately mine worked when I was test driving mine after reading so many threads on here about this issue. Researching this forum helped tremendously so I knew the trouble spots to look for! Since I’ve own it, I’ve never had to use 4 low, but I’m glad to know it does work in case I ever need it for getting my boat out on a slippery ramp, or other circumstances where it would be handy.
RazzRoach
New member
I just bought an 05 4runner 2 weeks ago and met the dealer for a pre purchase inspection where they told me everything checked out and 4wd worked flawless. Fast forward to a few days ago I was up in the mountains and got stuck in some deep snow. tried putting in 4lo and nothing but a blink. kept trying to switch over and nothing for days. last night it stuck in 4hi with lo light blinking and wouldn't switch to 2hi. turned car off and back on and nothing still stuck with 4lo light blinking in any switch position. decided to put car in neutral and switched to 4lo and lo and behold it engaged! after it engaged I switched back to 4hi with no issues then 2hi. what everyone else says about the issue is right the actuator just needs to be messed with to release it from being stuck
Bumbo
New member
Some of these comments are entertaining. I must be a special use case, because every time I use the truck, I use 4 LO. There is no way I would be able to leave it as a non functional item. It would need to be repaired for me to even consider owning.
I would slam the seller for as much of a discount as you can get... As a buyer, even if I didn't need it, or planed to use it, it still supposed to work, and there is an inherent value associated with a properly working function. I'm sure you would think different if this was an HVAC system, power windows, or sunroof (which I personally never use or want for that matter)
A seller that would not take a discount into consideration for something inoperable is absolutely being unreasonable. Personally I would have an estimate in hand as a negotiation tool.
I would slam the seller for as much of a discount as you can get... As a buyer, even if I didn't need it, or planed to use it, it still supposed to work, and there is an inherent value associated with a properly working function. I'm sure you would think different if this was an HVAC system, power windows, or sunroof (which I personally never use or want for that matter)
A seller that would not take a discount into consideration for something inoperable is absolutely being unreasonable. Personally I would have an estimate in hand as a negotiation tool.
This is where my 'head' is at as well. I only recently bought my 4th Gen and got what many say was the 'Deal of the Century' - so I have a lot of room if I DO have to spend any money on it.
Initially I have the issue of the 4WD low not functioning but 4WD HIGH was working normally along with the center differential lock however at one point it wound up stuck in 4 HIGH and the center diff lock quit working but with the weather warming up a bit the center diff lock has started to work again but I am still stuck in 4 High.
I have been researching the 4 LOW problem and ways to possibly deal with it but I have been concentrating on the 4 HIGH issue first.
Question - will the front diff actuator influence the system if it were bad and is causing the stuck in 4 high situation?
My point is IF the actuator WERE in fact stuck I assume the green 4WD indicator light will stay ON indicating I am IN 4WD high. The light stays on regardless of the switch position. I hope this makes sense.
