What else to do while replacing shocks/springs

A

Arv

New member
So I'm installing 4R 5100s and 99 tall springs this weekend on my 2K Sport Ed 130K miles with 265/65/17s Revo 3s. I'm thinking of what else to work on or service/replace while I got the rig jacked up and wheels removed.

1. rear diff breather, not decided on doing the mod yet since its a pavement queen. Should I do the mod anyways?
2. sway bar bushings since I will probably have to remove the end links. Energy with Zerk fittings? Should I? The vehicle suspension is still tight but it is 20 yrs. old. Probably should. It'll add to the new suspension feel, right?
3. ??? What else?

Everything underneath is original except for the brakes and rear axle seals. I also plan to do the Tundra brakes later

Thanks in advance for the input!
 
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Arv said:
I'll definitely check everything but last time I checked by pushing/pulling on the tires on the top and bottom everything was tight. this is the way to check right?
thanks!
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That will in no way tell you if the lower ball joints are in good shape. They support the weight of the truck in tension when the truck is on the ground, and even off the ground, they will be under decent tension due to the bushings, swaybars, etc.

The service manual procedure includes a pry bar and a dial indicator... Less than 0.5mm/0.0020" of play is allowed in the lower ball joint.

-Charlie
 
phattyduck said:
That will in no way tell you if the lower ball joints are in good shape. They support the weight of the truck in tension when the truck is on the ground, and even off the ground, they will be under decent tension due to the bushings, swaybars, etc.

The service manual procedure includes a pry bar and a dial indicator... Less than 0.5mm/0.0020" of play is allowed in the lower ball joint.

-Charlie
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Good to know that. The procedure I stated worked on my other vehicles. Jacked up of course.
 
When I replaced springs/struts up front I also replaced the sway bar bushings and end links. I chose to go OEM on those parts.
 
Sarki said:
When I replaced springs/struts up front I also replaced the sway bar bushings and end links. I chose to go OEM on those parts.
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Ok, I think I'll do that too but with Energy bushings with Zerks. Thanks. I've had Energy bushings in my other vehicle before and they can get embarrassing when the lubricant dries up.
 
when I did mine (99 talls and kyb) I also did the sway bar links on back as they were looking the worst of all ,airbags, but that is because I knew I would be hauling weight at times, and rarely pull a trailer.
Breather mod, well if not , at least clean your breather and make sure it flows. I did the breather mod for 2 reasons, 1) I off road when I can 2) I drive through heavy snow at times and did not want my breather to get plugged with snow.

If you don't off road or get into situations that might plug the breather, then I don't think you need to

age/miles /brand of lower ball joints, if don't know, id replace while there with OEM

also at same time I replaced my rack bushings ,lbj's and outer tie rods

that was all about 60k ago and all still holding fine as far as those parts, although about 10k ago I had to do the lower control arm bushings
 
3bears said:
when I did mine (99 talls and kyb) I also did the sway bar links on back as they were looking the worst of all ,airbags, but that is because I knew I would be hauling weight at times, and rarely pull a trailer.
Breather mod, well if not , at least clean your breather and make sure it flows. I did the breather mod for 2 reasons, 1) I off road when I can 2) I drive through heavy snow at times and did not want my breather to get plugged with snow.

If you don't off road or get into situations that might plug the breather, then I don't think you need to

age/miles /brand of lower ball joints, if don't know, id replace while there with OEM

also at same time I replaced my rack bushings ,lbj's and outer tie rods

that was all about 60k ago and all still holding fine as far as those parts, although about 10k ago I had to do the lower control arm bushings
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Ok, looks like the LBJ is highly recommend but they are pricey specially when I just dropped 1K for the suspension work. I will definitely look at it closely.

Yeah you just reminded me that I do drive on snow so I will do the breather mod but not through the gas filler neck gasket.

Any suggestions for alternate breather mod location?

I guess I can find a clean high point somewhere.

Yup planning to also do the rear swaybar and end link bushings. Will definitely PB blaster the night before as I have seen many breaking the bolts on these.
Thanks for all the input!
Thanks all!
 
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Do you know if your lower control arm cams are good? My passenger side was frozen ( very common) so I ended up replacing the control arm and cam bolts. If they are frozen you will not be able to do an alignment.
 
My T4R is strictly used on the road but I did the breather mod as well since i had it off to confirm it wasn’t clogged. Had a new breather on hand so I just extended it by use of adding approx 6-8” hose and tucking it out of the way.
Definitely worth swapping out the rear stabilizer links if they are toast, did the same as well on my rig.
 
TheLincolnGreen said:
Do you know if your lower control arm cams are good? My passenger side was frozen ( very common) so I ended up replacing the control arm and cam bolts. If they are frozen you will not be able to do an alignment.
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I'll make sure I PB blaster those, so they should be loosened up by the time I so the alignment. Thanks for the heads up.

Sarki said:
My T4R is strictly used on the road but I did the breather mod as well since i had it off to confirm it wasn’t clogged. Had a new breather on hand so I just extended it by use of adding approx 6-8” hose and tucking it out of the way.
Definitely worth swapping out the rear stabilizer links if they are toast, did the same as well on my rig.
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I'll have to look for a spot down there where to relocate the breather then buy the vacuum hose, that's what people use right? 6-8" that didn't go that far, I'm afraid if I had it that short and secured somewhere aside from the diff that it would get yanked off.

Thanks.
 
Arv said:
Any suggestions for alternate breather mod location?
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Run it just up behind the gas filler opening (about 4" below where everyone pokes it out). As long as the plastic shield is still in place, it is a very clean location. If you have water up to mid-door height, you have other problems!

-Charlie
 
phattyduck said:
Run it just up behind the gas filler opening (about 4" below where everyone pokes it out). As long as the plastic shield is still in place, it is a very clean location. If you have water up to mid-door height, you have other problems!

-Charlie
Click to expand...

yeah saw that some people were doing that, I think I'll do that too. Thanks!
 
IF I used OEM swaybar bushings (to eliminate long term squeaking with poly) but used Energy end link bushings, is this good enough?
 
Energy part numbers I found: Note that I have stock end links on a 2000.
9.8105 end link bushings and washers 8 each, i"m assuming you only need a set for front and rear.

9.5156 rear swaybar bushings with Zerk

9.5161 front swaybar busings with Zerk

Does anyone have the OEM swaybar bushing part numbers in case I go that route.
 
Ok, bit the bullet and got the ES sb bushings with Zerks and also the end link bushings.

9.5156 rear swaybar bushings with Zerk 3/4"
9.5161 front swaybar bushings with Zerk 1"
9.8105 end link bushings

I guess its oks to use Lucas Marine grease on these, this is what they recommend mini-grease-gun-combo | Mini Zerk Grease Gun with Automotive Friendly Grease

Now the question is fitment and additional hardware. I read a post saying that you have to file the rear bracket a bit because the holes are not close enough. How about the front? Are they a direct fit?
Also that you need some washers as the holes on the brackets are wider/bigger? Are the washers for 12mm or 14mm bolts?
Thanks
 
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After a few days of research, I concluded that Lucas Blue Marine grease was the best easily obtained grease for my new Prothane poly sway bar bushings (after using up the laughably tiny grease packet that came with them). The biggest thing to worry about is wash-out, and since it's marine grease, it's highly water resistant. I just made sure to pump a metric shit-ton in, and it's been pushing a year and still no squeaks.
 
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