What gear ratio?
- Thread starter kolelt
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Lindenwood
New member
5.29s.
Scroll to the bottom to see my reasoning (and another few pages of discussion).
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/254307-re-gearing-performance-2.html
Cliffs: There is no evidence it will reduce mileage, and no evidence it will reduce engine longevity, but there is clear and objective evidence that your vehicle will almost universally perform better.
Scroll to the bottom to see my reasoning (and another few pages of discussion).
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/254307-re-gearing-performance-2.html
Cliffs: There is no evidence it will reduce mileage, and no evidence it will reduce engine longevity, but there is clear and objective evidence that your vehicle will almost universally perform better.
sportscarfan
New member
I'd have to ask myself (and did) - what am I looking to gain vs. what is it going to cost?
You don't really say why you think you need to regear...
For perspective, mine is still running the 4:10's it came with and I live at 9200'. Same engine, tire size, transmission...
If you've ever driven anything from sea level to this altitude, you'll understand the performance penalty.
You don't really say why you think you need to regear...
For perspective, mine is still running the 4:10's it came with and I live at 9200'. Same engine, tire size, transmission...
If you've ever driven anything from sea level to this altitude, you'll understand the performance penalty.
I’m seeing my options. Cons and pros. With all the armor and big tires. It seems sluggish. Or maybe I have a heavy foot. I’ve notice that when driving on a highway. Let’s say 70mph. And I’m approaching a hill. The truck has a hard time maintaining the 70mph. It actually drops 5-10mph depending on how steep and the how long the hill is. It does help to go to 4th gear.
phattyduck
Elite Member
The manual trans already has shorter gearing than the auto. Downshifting to 4th is a normal thing in a manual transmission vehicle... you don't have to worry about an unlocked torque converter, at least!
What are your RPMs at say, 70mph in 5th? (adjusted for tire size, if possible)
Are you happy with your crawl ratio in 1st/LOW? That might also help make your gearing decisions.
-Charlie
What are your RPMs at say, 70mph in 5th? (adjusted for tire size, if possible)
Are you happy with your crawl ratio in 1st/LOW? That might also help make your gearing decisions.
-Charlie
Bijan
New member
a) new (current) tire size
b) factory gear ratio
c) factory tire size
d) new gear ratio
Multiply a x b....then divide that by c...then you will know what gear ratio is best for you.
4
4Runner fun
Guest
285/75/16 is about a 32/33" tire 5.29 is a large jump. probably more gear than you want for a street truck (no picture or any real info other than asking to be told what gear to run) a quick search will find many gear calculators, figure what your stock final gear ratio is and work on matching it. And yes running 4 or 5 hundred more RPM will help with a heavier rig.
On a 22re/ manual trans with 35's Im running 5.29's its primarily a desert/ rock crawler. very minimun street use. It's very quick stop light to stop light, but really spins the motor on the highway. I did it for final crawl ratio.
my other rig is a 3.4/auto on 37's running 4.88's and at 65 in overdrive it's at 2K on the tach, that truck actually could use 5.29's but with the auto it wheels good, and 4.88's have more meat to the gear.
find a gear ratio calculator, run the numbers, then come back and ask guys running those gears what they think.
You will have a better understanding of where you were stock, where you are now, and what you could expect with a gear change.
also is it cost effective to really make the change.
Just my opinion!
On a 22re/ manual trans with 35's Im running 5.29's its primarily a desert/ rock crawler. very minimun street use. It's very quick stop light to stop light, but really spins the motor on the highway. I did it for final crawl ratio.
my other rig is a 3.4/auto on 37's running 4.88's and at 65 in overdrive it's at 2K on the tach, that truck actually could use 5.29's but with the auto it wheels good, and 4.88's have more meat to the gear.
find a gear ratio calculator, run the numbers, then come back and ask guys running those gears what they think.
You will have a better understanding of where you were stock, where you are now, and what you could expect with a gear change.
also is it cost effective to really make the change.
Just my opinion!
Lindenwood
New member
Matching final drive is close, but you also have to account for an additional 80-100lbs of rotating mass for these larger tires.
Plus, by the time most of us are looking at gears, we have also added several hundred pounds of plain body weight. My truck weighs ~4900lb, or about 900pb over stock.
So, while the simple thought is often to just regear to factory RPMs, that does not at all account for the dramatic increase in momentum the powertrain must overcome. Thus, again, I strongly advocate for [numerically] higher gears over lower gears.
Plus, by the time most of us are looking at gears, we have also added several hundred pounds of plain body weight. My truck weighs ~4900lb, or about 900pb over stock.
So, while the simple thought is often to just regear to factory RPMs, that does not at all account for the dramatic increase in momentum the powertrain must overcome. Thus, again, I strongly advocate for [numerically] higher gears over lower gears.
If I recall. Last time I drove my truck. 70mph was almost at 3k rpms.
1st gear low does feel good. Barley any gas is needed to make up a obstacle.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Ok, that matches my memory. 70mph with an auto and 4.10's is just over 2k rpm... And OD off is something like 3.2k rpm.
In many ways, you already are 're-geared' compared to most of the guys on here with the auto.
Drive around in 4th and see how it feels. That's about what it would be in 5th with 5.29s... (numerically, it is the equivalent of 5.13 gears, but that doesn't exist).
-Charlie
