What happened to the Bilstein 4600s?

[zguy1]

I believe I did my due diligence by searching first, but I thought the 4600s were a good alternative to factory shocks with stock ride height? All I can find online are the 5100s. Even the Bilstein website does not list them as an option. Are they no longer available or were they never applicable to the 4Runner but folks used them anyway. Thanks.

 

[Bossman]

Bilstein 4600

4600 vs. 5100 - Here's What Bilstein Says

Bilstein Online Catalog

 

[stevelikesrhino]

They are definitely still available if you search the Bilstein catalog. As far as I know they are valved slightly differently to 5100s because they are for factory ride height. In my opinion 150 usd per corner for a gas pressurized monotube shock is an absolute steal.

 

[rdruss]

Had a set on my "03 Runner w/V8, just removed them couple months ago and replaced with Dob IMS. The 4600's in my basement, only 40K miles on them. They are good shocks, just a little harsh on a rough road, but provide excellent control.

 

[zguy1]

Bilstein 4600

4600 vs. 5100 - Here's What Bilstein Says

Bilstein Online Catalog

Thanks. I think were I got confused was due to the fact that Rock Auto does not carry the 4600s for the rear, only the front. Also, if you search Amazon using 4runner and 4600 it does not yield any results. Turns out the B6 series is the same as the 4600s which does yield a result. I suppose I learned something new.

Had a set on my "03 Runner w/V8, just removed them couple months ago and replaced with Dob IMS. The 4600's in my basement, only 40K miles on them. They are good shocks, just a little harsh on a rough road, but provide excellent control.

I guess I wonder how they would be compared to stock ones in working condition. I don't want the truck to ride rough. I bought my truck used with 206k miles and now I have 318k. The ride does seem to have deteriorated in the past year. One of my shocks in the front are leaking. It's looking like my options are the 4600s or the 5100s. Aside from the 5100s raising the front up a bit, I wonder how the rear shocks (4600 vs 5100) compare for stock ride heights?

 

[rdruss]

Thanks. I think were I got confused was due to the fact that Rock Auto does not carry the 4600s for the rear, only the front. Also, if you search Amazon using 4runner and 4600 it does not yield any results. Turns out the B6 series is the same as the 4600s which does yield a result. I suppose I learned something new.




I guess I wonder how they would be compared to stock ones in working condition. I don't want the truck to ride rough. I bought my truck used with 206k miles and now I have 318k. The ride does seem to have deteriorated in the past year. One of my shocks in the front are leaking. It's looking like my options are the 4600s or the 5100s. Aside from the 5100s raising the front up a bit, I wonder how the rear shocks (4600 vs 5100) compare for stock ride heights?

I doubt very much if you could tell the difference in the rear between the two. Versus stock, both the 4600 and 5100 will offer a firmer ride and a more stable feeling. On a section of rough pavement, both will seem rougher than stock, but the other benefits are worth it, definitely a worthwhile upgrade. I "think" the 5100 is valved just slightly firmer than the 4600. I ran a 1/2" spacer up front with my 4600 to level it out some. Also, I run the '07 FJ springs rather than the stock ones that came with xreas suspension, so they are a little firmer as well I believe. Overall, I was very happy with 4600/FJ spring/half inch spacer up front.

 

[zguy1]

I ended up installing the 4600s in the rear last night. I have the fronts still so those will be next.

Since you can't get a torque wrench in there, I just held the shocks with my hand and tightened down the upper nut until I could see some threads exposed on the top and the bushings starting to compress.

Do I still need to tighten these any more?

I don't see any issues unless it is obvious that the bushings aren't compressed far enough.

 

[rdruss]

I'd crank them down some more until the bushing is squashed out to the edge of the washer

 

[zguy1]

I'd crank them down some more until the bushing is squashed out to the edge of the washer

Thanks, I will tighten them down some more.

Btw, I started the fronts today but I was only able to get the passenger side done. I tried to position the end of springs sitting in the perch facing towards the rear. I maybe a few degrees off.

How exact does it need to be?

 

[rdruss]

You are fine.

 

[zguy1]

You are fine.

Thanks. I am going to wrap this up today. I can’t wait to drive it. The passenger strut was completely blown. The shock itself would not even rebound once compressed after being removed. Not surprised considering it was leaking.

 

[zguy1]

I finished the fronts yesterday. Turns out rust is real lol. I had two issues that I had trouble with. The first was removing the strut assembly from the truck itself after removing all of the fasteners and the other was removing the top bolt from each of the shocks itself.

Regarding the first, the upper mount was rusted to the frame where the three 14mm bolts are. I sprayed tons of PB Blaster there but it didnt seem to help. Only after violently moving the strut assembly side to side and front to back was I able to get it out. I moved it so hard that I broke a speed sensor and bent the post on the old shock.

Regarding the second, one of the tops of the shaft where the 17mm bolt is sheered off while trying to remove it. I had to cut the nut off with a grinder. I did not have access to any type of torch to heat the area so I am not sure of that would have a made a difference.

I do wish I would have bought new upper mount assemblies as mine are pretty beat up and rusted. I put some anti seize on the mating surfaces for the time being.

 

[rdruss]

Yes, rust is a real challenge in the Midwest, especially the upper Midwest where they try and match snowfall with inches of salt! I had to beat my upper shock mounts out too the first time. You'll want some new KYB uppers and they come with the rubber bushing installed inside so don't double up there.

 

[zguy1]

Yes, rust is a real challenge in the Midwest, especially the upper Midwest where they try and match snowfall with inches of salt! I had to beat my upper shock mounts out too the first time. You'll want some new KYB uppers and they come with the rubber bushing installed inside so don't double up there.

I am hoping to not have to disassemble them again which would be needed to install the new KYB mounts.

I took the truck out for a long drive today. I am noticing a bit of a thump from the front drivers side when turning and going over bumps. The only thing I can think of is maybe that the nut on the top of the shock needs to be tightened down some more.

Could that be the issue?

Not sure what else it can be since I have loosened the lower ball joint many times before including the tie rod end so I doubt it could be from those areas. The bottom shock bolt on the lower control arm was torqued to 100 lb-ft so I good there. Unless the upper mount got bent when I was violently shaking the strut assembly trying to remove it.