What is a P. Control Wire?

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For the parking break...so you can only watch DVD's in dash while in park...if you ground it you will be able to watch DVD's anytime while driving.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I know for a fact that it is not the Parking Break wire. The Parking break wire is lime green and I have already bypassed this one.

tarheeltp17 is correct. I did not connect this wire when installing my Kenwood DVT-512. Would this explain why I cannot hear or use my sub for the CD/DVD portion? When I hit the tuner my amp turns on amd I can hear my sub.

What wire do I connect the P. Control wire to? I have a Pyramid amplifier with the basis, Grnd/Rmt/Pwr. It doesnt go to my amp does it? I would think I could hoo kit up to the rest of the remote wires and it would be good.

Your thoughts?
 
I was a bit confused as well. I just installed the Dnx8120 last weekend and the kenwood unit seemed to have 2 leads for amps. I ended up using the P. ext wire which was pink with a stripe (brown i think) That was listed as the external amp wire (tied to remote line on amp). Everything works fine for me.

I was always used to the remote wire being blue also, but that is the power antennae wire on the kenwood 8120
 
This is great info. So, I would just have to tie the P. Control Wire into the rest of the remote wires, correct?
 
Sorry been awhile since I installed mine...what was the parking break wire labelled then?

Doesn't it tell you on your install instructions?
 
sant6236 said:
This is great info. So, I would just have to tie the P. Control Wire into the rest of the remote wires, correct?

No - do not tie them all together!

The BLUE (motor antenna control) wire is only powered when the unit is set to radio tuner, which powers your antenna amp, or antenna motor control input (didn't catch what year T4R you have). This is a low current output.

The BLUE/WHITE (power control) wire goes to the remote input on any external amps you may have connected. This is also a low current output.

The Pink/Black (external amp control) wire is to be connected to the amp only if it has an external amp control system installed in it as a feature. I believe this is for those amps which have communication from the amp to the head unit for amp adjustments, not just for power turn on (if I remember correctly). In most cases this isn't used and should be capped or just taped up.

None the less, each of these outputs have very low current output ability, and you may fry the circuit in a heartbeat if you short it out, or try to power up something more than a couple hundred milliamps.

Good luck & hope this helps
 
Ok~

So before I read this last response, I had already tied them all together.

The sub now works for ALL.

However, I am now worried. Should I have merely connected the blue remote wire coming from the amp to the Power Contol wire and left it out of the other remote wires that are tied together?

Its working fine, but should I be worried.
 
The only wire you need to send to the amp (or amps) for turn on is the blue/white wire (unless it's like I described before - the smart amp which needs the pink/black wire). Having them tied together and having it work "fine" for now may be all good - for now, but it's not designed to be tied together, and there's no reason to have them tied together.

Each wire has a different purpose. Use them as such. If you don't need the wire, tape it up. Don't just splice it into other unused wires. That's asking for trouble. It's almost like taping the speaker outputs from the radio together because you aren't using them since you are using the RCA outputs. Obviously, you didn't do this, Right? Well, I hope you didn't.

I've had over 10 years experience installing car radios & equipment, however, not my primary job. Just a side job while in the military, & not as much here recently. However, the car radio wiring has not changed much (with the exception of the can-bus) over the years.

Please take my word on this. You do not want to simply splice these wires together. You may not see anything go wrong by doing it, or you may fry each of these outputs. Not worth it. Just do it right the first time.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
Ok, I will take your word for it.

I will connect the P Contol (Blue & White) wire coming out of the back of the deck to only the remote wire (Blue) coming out of the amp.

This will activate the amp and sub for DVD/CD, but then how will the Tuner/FM/AM get basS from the amp and sub? What activates the amp/sub for the Tuner?

Its ok to run all of the grounds/Ebrake wires together correct?

Also, how abot ALL power wires, would this be a problem?

No, I did not just splice speaker wire and mute or ILL into anything and everything, Im not that bad, funny though.
 
sant6236 said:
Ok, I will take your word for it.

I will connect the P Contol (Blue & White) wire coming out of the back of the deck to only the remote wire (Blue) coming out of the amp.

This will activate the amp and sub for DVD/CD, but then how will the Tuner/FM/AM get basS from the amp and sub? What activates the amp/sub for the Tuner?

Its ok to run all of the grounds/Ebrake wires together correct?

Also, how abot ALL power wires, would this be a problem?

No, I did not just splice speaker wire and mute or ILL into anything and everything, Im not that bad, funny though.

Your deck will be much happier!

Again, the blue/white wire provides a turn-on power to the amp as long as the deck is on. So it doesn't matter if you are listening to a CD, DVD or the radio tuner, it will provide power to the amp. The blue wire only provides power when the deck is set to tuner (which would be the only time you need the antenna up, or on anyway).

As funny as it may seem splicing all the speaker wires together, I've seen some pretty stupid stuff over the years.
I've had to bite my lip many times. I've looked on in disbelief more than a few times when the person approached me wondering why they have this horrible hum, static, or even why they had smoke coming from the radio when they turned it up (yes, smoke). Then I check out the install and find a rats nest of wires, no actual splices or solder used (just twisted together), and may or may not have tape or heat shrink over the bare wires. Yikes! Oh, the good old days LOL.

Anyway, the ground being tied together with the e-brake won't be a problem (other than being illegal to do so). Now, the power wires tied together may not necessarily be a problem, but may cause undesireable operation.

Such as, if you tie the battery & accessory wires (red & yellow) from the deck together, and splice into a hot (battery) wire, then your deck will always have power, may run down the battery, you will always have to manually shut it off, will probably stay pretty warm or hot (temp), and ultimately, may fail prematurely.

If you connect the red & yellow wires to a switched power source from your vehicle, then your radio station presets will most likely erase each time you shut off power, your cd or dvd will most likely always start from the beginning each time instead of from where you left off when you shut the vehicle off. You may even have to go in to the menu each time and turn on the sub output, or adjust EQ settings. I don't know about you, but that would drive me absolutely nuts!

Once again, they give you the wiring information so you can connect it as they intended it to be connected - CORRECTLY. Wire each wire to what it was intended to be wired to, and you will enjoy your purchase so much more. If you skimp or take shortcuts, you probably won't enjoy it as much, and may even shorten the life of your deck.

Good luck again, & let us know if you have more questions.
 

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