What kind of recovery gear do you use?

[Jetboy]

This:

And this:

and this:

Things have to get pretty crazy before these three items don't get me out.

Makes it easy to help other people too. It's easier to do this (that's me on a snowy day slide off):

Than this:

 

[Land_Shark]

I dig it, but I'm all about this:

 

[Jetboy]

FWIW - I'll take a hook on a winch rope over a thimble. Hooks are faster. When you're buddy is tipped off a road and it's another 40 feet to the river below, fast can make a big difference. It's also a lot safer in those scenarios to toss a hook around a roll cage than fumbling with a shackle.

In slow speed kinda scenarios the thimble is a good option. To each his own.

 

[Land_Shark]

FWIW - I'll take a hook on a winch rope over a thimble. Hooks are faster. When you're buddy is tipped off a road and it's another 40 feet to the river below, fast can make a big difference. It's also a lot safer in those scenarios to toss a hook around a roll cage than fumbling with a shackle.

In slow speed kinda scenarios the thimble is a good option. To each his own.

Good points - that's the one major negative about using the thimbles. My brother's jeep was taking on water and we could have been that much faster without the thimble.

 

[Jetboy]

I think I found the ultimate solution. Quick as a hook, secure as a thimble/shackle. And it's only $5,000! (for helicopter lifting)

 

[DesertCanyons]

Strength of steel at working loads

I was cruising around Amazon and found that there are various 3/4 and 7/8 in shackles or D-rings with different working load ratings. Why is it that with two 3/4in shackles can have different ratings? Most 3/4in are rated at 4 & 3/4 tons or 9,500lbs. There are other, more expensive, 3/4 in shackles that are rated lower though. Thoughts as to why? Is it as simple as different grades of metal? Or different break test research and development? I googled this with no luck. Same goes for the 7/8in D-rings....two different manufacturers, two different working loads. I'd like to get a few more, but want more info before buying.

Yes, it's partly about the grade of steel. Structural steel varies in yield strength from 36,000 psi to 70,000 psi (or higher) in commonly used grades.

There's more to it and engineers call it strength of materials.

The other part is how they rate them based on the breaking strength. Steel should never be used up to the breaking strength, which is much higher than the yield or working strength. Steel is typically tested with a straight rod in tension. The change in length versus the load applied is plotted on a graph of stress versus strain.

Yield is when steel starts to change shape or elongate under load. Yield or elongation is linear, in proportion to the load, within a range. Breaking occurs at the ultimate load, when the steel fails. As the steel exceeds the linear stress versus strain range and approaches the ultimate load, it elongates at a non-linear rate, with almost no increase in load for an increase in length. Breaking strength is often less than the load at the top of the linear stress/strain curve. Breaking occurs very quickly once the linear range is exceeded.

To avoid unexpected failure at a lower stress, materials like steel are used within about 1/4 or 1/5 of the ultimate load. This insures the stress strain relationship is within the linear range and it never begins to elongate faster for a given load. This also ensures the steel will return to it's original length or shape when the load is released. That is, the steel won't get bent out of shape. Steel is tested for the stress/strain relationship and the ultimate failure load. Then it's rated for about 1/4 of that ultimate load, depending on the shape of the curve on the graph.

In my undergraduate years of civil engineering I tested various materials in this manner. We always wanted to know the stress versus strain relationship, and the shape of the curve at ultimate load.

 

[DesertCanyons]

Recovery Gear

Here is some more practical info on what gear to use. Based on some of this info I now have a snatch strap, D-ring shackles, a snatch block I plan to use with a rope bridle that I have yet to make or buy. I have an old strap with hooks that I will only use like a tree saver strap or when I can be sure it won't move (snap back) if it's released suddenly. I might use it wrapped several times around a desert rock as a winch recovery point. I also acquired a cable come-along winch that is harder to use than an electrical/mechanical winch mounted on the bumper but it was a lot less expensive and can be left in the garage when I'm not offroading.

Here's what I learned:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/213078-recovery-gear-options.html

 

[nevada]

I dig it, but I'm all about this:

I have the same.

FWIW - I'll take a hook on a winch rope over a thimble. Hooks are faster. When you're buddy is tipped off a road and it's another 40 feet to the river below, fast can make a big difference. It's also a lot safer in those scenarios to toss a hook around a roll cage than fumbling with a shackle.

In slow speed kinda scenarios the thimble is a good option. To each his own.

agreed. for quick connects, I have a masterpull cobra sling hook attached with another 3/4 shackle to my prolink. for any major pulling, we go directly to the prolink shackle.

Good points - that's the one major negative about using the thimbles. My brother's jeep was taking on water and we could have been that much faster without the thimble.

they make these now. about $250.

I was cruising around Amazon and found that there are various 3/4 and 7/8 in shackles or D-rings with different working load ratings. Why is it that with two 3/4in shackles can have different ratings? Most 3/4in are rated at 4 & 3/4 tons or 9,500lbs. There are other, more expensive, 3/4 in shackles that are rated lower though. Thoughts as to why? Is it as simple as different grades of metal? Or different break test research and development? I googled this with no luck. Same goes for the 7/8in D-rings....two different manufacturers, two different working loads. I'd like to get a few more, but want more info before buying.

I noticed the same thing, I finally landed on the masterpull d shackles. they seem to be very high quality, and not terribly expensive. bonus is, they have a bit of a larger opening than other shackles of the same size.

3/4" Van Beest Screw Pin Shackle 62,000 lbs - Master Pull


they don't neck down like other shackles do.

 

[Land_Shark]

Yes, it's partly about the grade of steel. Structural steel varies in yield strength from 36,000 psi to 70,000 psi (or higher) in commonly used grades.

There's more to it and engineers call it strength of materials.

The other part is how they rate them based on the breaking strength. Steel should never be used up to the breaking strength, which is much higher than the yield or working strength. Steel is typically tested with a straight rod in tension. The change in length versus the load applied is plotted on a graph of stress versus strain.

Yield is when steel starts to change shape or elongate under load. Yield or elongation is linear, in proportion to the load, within a range. Breaking occurs at the ultimate load, when the steel fails. As the steel exceeds the linear stress versus strain range and approaches the ultimate load, it elongates at a non-linear rate, with almost no increase in load for an increase in length. Breaking strength is often less than the load at the top of the linear stress/strain curve. Breaking occurs very quickly once the linear range is exceeded.

To avoid unexpected failure at a lower stress, materials like steel are used within about 1/4 or 1/5 of the ultimate load. This insures the stress strain relationship is within the linear range and it never begins to elongate faster for a given load. This also ensures the steel will return to it's original length or shape when the load is released. That is, the steel won't get bent out of shape. Steel is tested for the stress/strain relationship and the ultimate failure load. Then it's rated for about 1/4 of that ultimate load, depending on the shape of the curve on the graph.

In my undergraduate years of civil engineering I tested various materials in this manner. We always wanted to know the stress versus strain relationship, and the shape of the curve at ultimate load.

Here is some more practical info on what gear to use. Based on some of this info I now have a snatch strap, D-ring shackles, a snatch block I plan to use with a rope bridle that I have yet to make or buy. I have an old strap with hooks that I will only use like a tree saver strap or when I can be sure it won't move (snap back) if it's released suddenly. I might use it wrapped several times around a desert rock as a winch recovery point. I also acquired a cable come-along winch that is harder to use than an electrical/mechanical winch mounted on the bumper but it was a lot less expensive and can be left in the garage when I'm not offroading.

Here's what I learned:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/213078-recovery-gear-options.html

I have the same.

agreed. for quick connects, I have a masterpull cobra sling hook attached with another 3/4 shackle to my prolink. for any major pulling, we go directly to the prolink shackle.



they make these now. about $250.

I noticed the same thing, I finally landed on the masterpull d shackles. they seem to be very high quality, and not terribly expensive. bonus is, they have a bit of a larger opening than other shackles of the same size.

3/4" Van Beest Screw Pin Shackle 62,000 lbs - Master Pull


they don't neck down like other shackles do.

Awesome guys, thanks for the great info. I wish I could access those graphs from the manufacturer! I really like that $250 option. I'll have to take a look at those Van Beest shackles....

 

[-JD-]

Just curious what everyone is doing for storage of their recovery gear. My old TE used to have the slide out tray with the storage cubby behind the rear seats that was great for straps and such.

The new LE has no slide out or third row and just has the flat rear floor. Not sure what I'm going to do with all my recovery gear yet.

Get a big storage bin and strap it down in the back? The idea of that stuff sliding around/rattling back there is obviously undesirable.

 

[Jetboy]

Just curious what everyone is doing for storage of their recovery gear. My old TE used to have the slide out tray with the storage cubby behind the rear seats that was great for straps and such.

The new LE has no slide out or third row and just has the flat rear floor. Not sure what I'm going to do with all my recovery gear yet.

Get a big storage bin and strap it down in the back? The idea of that stuff sliding around/rattling back there is obviously undesirable.

I'm a fan of these. They're as good as I've found for handy storage bins around $20 or less. Home Depot has a good selection and Walmart has some cheap ones that are pretty good:

I have 3 of them. One has all my "towing" stuff. Tie down straps, bungees, stinger, hitch pins, that sort of thing. One has a full set of hand tools. I use it for all sorts of stuff, not just car stuff. I don't take my good tools out of the garage. And the 3rd is for my offroad gear. Air compressor, tow strap, shackles, snatch block, gloves, etc. I keep the winch remote in all the time, but leave the other stuff in the garage most of the time.

 

[ElvisThePelvis]

I store my recovery gear in two Plano rifle cases. The cases lock and fit in the rear or on the roof rack easily. The cases lock together when stacked.

 

[TheMadFish]

[MENTION=66300]Intruder[/MENTION]

Also, when you tighten the pin on your shackle remember to hand tighten it then back it off about half a turn otherwise you might be looking for someone to cut the shackle off your truck after a recovery.

That's good to know, thanks for mentioning it for the n00bs like myself! :biggrin2: