What limits rear suspension droop?

[Kirk_B]

While I was installing my new rear shocks and springs a few weeks ago I made a few observations and had a question: what limits the rear suspension droop?

Observations on what limits droop:
Rear brake line length
Rear sway bar link length
Shock length

Possible problems increasing rear droop:
Driveshaft/pinion angles?
Rear springs not staying seated
Rear shocks maxing out

Solutions:
Install longer rear brake line?
Install longer rear sway bar links? (I would like to keep the rear sway bar connected for road manners, although I havent had my front one on for years)
Determine a way to keep spring from coming out of perch?
Install limit straps to save shock?


Springs installed were OME 890's
Shocks installed were King 25001-334

I did not measure the length of the new shocks to see how much more I can out of them.


What am I forgetting in terms of what limits travel? What about my solutions list?

 

[Plastics guy]

At the top of the 3rd gen forum there is a thread for all this type of information. it is titled "3rd Gen Informational Threads --- A MUST READ For New Members"

Jump in there and start reading before you get flamed for not using the search function...

if you get confused or have questions from what you read in there, you can then post a thread and get a lot more love from the guys.

But to help point you in the right direction here is all the lift info.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/66976-3rd-gen-4runner-lift-information-faqs.html

and dont listen to anyone who says Plasti-dip or window tint is a mod.

eace:

 

[DaMonkey]

Not sure Kirk's question is answered in the FAQ section lol.

Stock setup is limited by shock extension. Straps always best if you're going to find yourself there.

 

[4-Ripcord]

shock length, brake lines, bushing rotation/binding are the main limits. Sway bar limits flex, but not necessarily total axle droop.

So longer shocks (those std king -334 shocks are not very long btw), brake lines, and non-bonded bushings or rod end joints can increase that.

Keep in mind that nothing is holding the spring in place except the compression of it between the axle and frame. On my last 4Runner the rear would easily flex enough to drop out an 890 spring (not that hard to do TBH, 890 and 891 have a very short free length). If you are in search of more flex or downtravel, get a spring with a longer free length (superflex or 861)

 

[theesotericone]

If you are in search of more flex or downtravel, get a spring with a longer free length (superflex or 861)

Then get custom Kings to be able to use that down travel. Just ordered mine last week. No group buy but it was time. lol

 

[Kirk_B]

At the top of the 3rd gen forum there is a thread for all this type of information. it is titled "3rd Gen Informational Threads --- A MUST READ For New Members"

Jump in there and start reading before you get flamed for not using the search function...

if you get confused or have questions from what you read in there, you can then post a thread and get a lot more love from the guys.

But to help point you in the right direction here is all the lift info.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/66976-3rd-gen-4runner-lift-information-faqs.html

and dont listen to anyone who says Plasti-dip or window tint is a mod.

eace:

not sure if this is a joke...

 

[jgue467]

I don't think Most of it is meant to be... :cowboy:

 

[MStudt]

not sure if this is a joke...

Doubt it was. Point of the post is to do your research to help keep clutter down on the forum. Often times topics are beaten like a dead horse because people either don't know how to search, or don't care to search. Threads like what lift should I get, or what size tires can I run are couple that get asked daily. A lot of what you stated/asked is covered in other threads, and I think that was his point.

Brake lines can be replaced when installing your lift, and most people will say do it. I'm still running my factory lines, and still have slack even with my lift.

Your sway bar links could use some extra length to get your sway bar back to its intended position. Adding links that are an inch plus longer will help. If you need longer links I can take care of it too.

Shock length is going to be your main limiting factor. Longer shocks will give you more droop, and custom shocks are an option as well. Just be sure to measure before you order.

I personally would stay away from the OME890, but that's just me. If you plan on carrying extra weight, say like 100-150 they'll start to sag. If you plan on getting a rear bumper or adding rear storage plan for that before buying your lift. If you plan on adding a bumper, tire carrier, and rear storage look at the LC springs, and Tokico black shocks.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

[MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] really hit the nail on the head with the bushings/binding point.
The factory 4-link flexes great, and plenty with extended shocks.
The real limitation of droop is the binding nature of the 4-link design- it's not designed to droop very far straight down. My buddy was trying to get 6" out of the factory rear, and it just can't handle that. Even with all the link bolts loose- and the panhard removed- that's just beyond the design limitations of the suspension. And having spherical bearings on the links makes it actually bind worse.

 

[kolelt]

I can almost remove my 861 when I fully flex!

 

[AssBurns]

Like others said:
Shocks, sway bar (longer end links help), brake lines, stiff bushings, suspension binding.
The stock rear suspension flexes great but the geometry doesn’t let the axle fully droop very far down at all without binding. Pull the drivers side upper link and it will reduce the binding on full droop until the upper link just gets to too much of an angle to keep dropping.

 

[snivilous]

Without gnarly modifications, max droop is limited by the upper arms in my experience. That's assuming you have links, shocks, brake lines, etc. to handle it, the 4 link geometry limit is the uppers going totally vertical.