What should I do to achieve lift?

miller92063

New member
After searching, new here so be easy, I cant find a good answer so here is my question.

Just picked up my first T4R. 08 SR5 with 80k. I like the idea of the Daystar 2.5/1.5, but think the T4R could probly use some new shocks and I ran Bilstein adjustables on both of my last two trucks and liked them so I am thinking that route with the daystar spacer in the rear.

Any other options that wont cost too much?

Plan on running With Cooper AT3's as I am seeing many good reviews on them here. Hoping to run 275 70 17....too big? Wheel spacers and I will be fine maybe?
 
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I have brand new Moog FJ springs going in my 07 in a couple of days. I was expecting a mild left but some say new moog springs may be more than that. Watch this thread over the next week or so as I will be adding real time updates.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/154972-morphynes-painkiller-build-tread.html

All in all, if the Moogs turn out I would say, go for that option as the new springs only cost an extra $138 and you have to mess with them anyway.

If the fj springs aren't you your liking and you are on a budget I would consider bilstein 5100's ($309 at downsouth motor sports) set at 2.5 in the front and a rear 1.5 spacer from amazon ($40). so for $349 you can get new shocks and a mild lift at the same time.
 

take some time out and sit down and read those two threads. afterwards, read it again. not trying to be a smart ass or anything, but thats what i did so i could find out what people said about this setup and that setup.

things you need to consider and prioritize when it comes to suspensions/lift/shocks/wheels/tires, yes they all matter when it comes to lifting a vehicle.

-age of current suspsension
-condition of current suspension
-condition of shocks
-type of OEM suspension you have
-how high you want to go
-what are your plans when you go that high
-what condition are your current tires, you can get more lift from the truck after suspension lift. then even more with body lift too. then some more with bigger tires.
-how much you planning on throwing at this project/upgrade/repair. depends on how you want to classify things to ease the pain of the cost of MODS :)

i spent weeks thinking and searching for my answers. there are lots of opinions out there, take everything with a grain of salt and choose what best suits your needs and budget.
 
The Bilstein 5100s front and rear, with the rear spacer would be a good setup. Killing two birds with one stone so to speak.
 
I see what you guys did there!!

Not my first forum. Went through 110 of the pages and have not seen the setup I want so the questions come out. And I was also asking opinions between two options so a picture thread would not help.
 
Went through 110 of the pages and have not seen the setup I want so the questions come out.

And what unique setup are you wanting to run? I'm pretty sure whatever you want to run at least one member here has tried it at some point.


And I was also asking opinions between two options so a picture thread would not help.

Picture thread? Part of the sticky is below:

**************************Aftermarket Lift Options**************************

Spacer lifts:
Spacer lifts are designed to work with your factory suspension components. This type of lift is great for those looking to keep the stock XREAS. Spacer lifts provide added clearance for off road, but they provide no other benefits. If you spend a lot of time off road, or even occasional off road that’s at a moderate level, this probably isn’t the best option for you. Spacer lifts are not made to handle added weight, such as front/rear bumpers. Spacer lifts have very little effect on ride quality. All spacer lifts are essentially created equal. About the only difference between them is the material they’re made of, all end up with the ame results.

Lift amounts range from ½” to 3”. With spacer lifts, it’s important to determine you want. Some people use these to simply get rid of the factory rake. This is accomplished by raising the front 1”-1.5” (most common, some have used different amounts). Others choose to lift both the front and rear. It is common for the kits to be sold in unequal sizes. The front is typically 1” higher than the rear, which also helps to get rid of the factory rake. It is important to note that you will gain double the spacer thickness in lift in the front ONLY. For example, a 1” thick spacer will provide 2” lift. A 1.5” rear spacer would net 1.5” lift.
Here are common choices for spacer lifts, listed by manufacturer.

Cornfed
• Front: 1” net lift spacer
• Kits: 2” front & 1” rear net lift, 3” front & 2” rear net lift

Daystar-
• Front: 1” thick Budget Boost spacer, 2.5” net spacer
• Rear: 1.5” thick spacer
• Kit: 2.5” front & 1.5” rear

Toytec
• Front: 1/4” thick spacer, ½” thick spacer, 2” net lift spacer, 2.5” net lift spacer, 3” net lift spacer
• Rear: 1.5” thick spacer
• Kit: 3” front & 2” rear net lift

Lift Coils and Shocks:
Lift coils and aftermarket shocks come at a higher price than spacer lifts, but also offer a variety of benefits. These are great for mild to moderate off road use and still have excellent on road characteristics. Unlike spacer lifts, these vary greatly depending on which ones you go with. Lift amounts tend to vary as well, depending on how worn your factory springs are. There’s a little more guess work involved to determine how much lift you will gain. Lift numbers are approximate.

OEM FJ Springs:
• Springs from a 2007+ FJ Cruiser are a direct swap to the 4th Gen 4runner.
• Shocks from a 2007-2009 FJ are a direct swap. Shocks from a 2010+ require some minor modification to fit. Details on the modifications can be found in this thread.
• These provide on average ½”-1” lift on the front, ¼”- ½” lift on the rear, depending on if you have a v6 or v8 engine and 2wd or 4wd.
• Most people buy them used from FJ owners who’ve upgraded
• More information can be found on the following pages
- http://www.toyota-4runner.org/suspen...o-4th-gen.html
- http://www.toyota-4runner.org/suspen...e-fj-swap.html

Bilstein 5100 Shocks
• Unlike most shocks, the Bilstein 5100 front shocks are adjustable for various amounts of lift.
• Lift settings are 0”, .85”, 1.75”, and 2.5”
• These offer great ride quality and are a good choice for a stock replacement.
• It is very common to pair these with FJ, OME, and Toytec Coils for added lift/performance

OME (Old Man EMU, not to be confused with stock, OEM)
• OME offers different coil options for v6/v8 4runners and also for those at stock or with added weight.
• Provide lift by using more wraps of coils and higher spring rate
- Higher spring rate = stiffer ride
• Front coils-should provide 2.5”-3” lift for listed application
- 883-Good for leveling the front with stock rear-approx 1.5" lift
- 884-For use on stock weight v6
- 885-For use on stock weigh v8, or v6 with added weight
- 886-For use on v8 with added weight
- Front coils often combined with ¼” thick spacer for a full 3” lift
• Rear coils
- 895e-stock weight, 1” lift
- 895-stock weight, 2” lift, over 40% stiffer than stock
- 896-weight added, 2” lift

Toytec:
• Superflex rear coils
- Great option for stock weight , 2” lift, 10% stiffer than stock

Coilovers
These are some of the best suspension systems available. Coilovers refer to the front shocks only. Most are sold in kits with rear shocks/coils that are matched to the fronts. These are best suited for more hardcore off-road use, but they are also excellent on road. The front coilovers are adjustable for lift, typically up to 3”-3.5” lift. This is a huge benefit of coilovers, you can adjust for added weight. In addition, unlike ordinary shocks, most can be rebuilt in case of failure, and also revalved to dial in the ride.
Icon
• Offer a variety of kits to suit your needs
Overland Warehouse
• Kits are designed specifically for the 4runner, unlike other kits which are universal to this platform
• Offer both a 2.0 kit for stock weight vehicles and a 2.5 kit for those with added weight.
• Extended travel kits include an extension bracket for the rear brake lines, info on this in a moment.
Toytec
• Their coilovers are more of a cross between standard shocks and coilovers
• They use Bilstein 5100’s and an added coilover conversion kit.
• Cheaper than other coilover options
• More difficult to adjust once on the vehicle
• Shocks are not rebuildable/revalvable
 
After searching, new here so be easy, I cant find a good answer so here is my question.

Just picked up my first T4R. 08 SR5 with 80k. I like the idea of the Daystar 2.5/1.5, but think the T4R could probly use some new shocks and I ran Bilstein adjustables on both of my last two trucks and liked them so I am thinking that route with the daystar spacer in the rear.

Any other options that wont cost too much?

Plan on running With Cooper AT3's as I am seeing many good reviews on them here. Hoping to run 275 70 17....too big? Wheel spacers and I will be fine maybe?

The bilstein is the 2nd most popular lift behind the daystar 2.5/1.5 spacer kit.

The other budget yet quality option is the Ironman kit.
 
I just ordered the adj bilsteins and 1.5 rear daystar. Figure I can run that until I get my hands on some FJ Springs.

Probly run 2.5 and the rear spacer then switch into the fj springs with the Bils set at 1.8.

Should I even bother trying to go 275 on the tires or just leave them and run the 265/70/17's?
 
You need to create a faster movement of air over the top of your 4Runner than air flowing under it, by meeting the appropriate ratio you shall achieve lift!

Or were we not talking about Aeronautics? LoL
 
I see what you guys did there!!

Not my first forum. Went through 110 of the pages and have not seen the setup I want so the questions come out. And I was also asking opinions between two options so a picture thread would not help.


I just ordered the adj bilsteins and 1.5 rear daystar. Figure I can run that until I get my hands on some FJ Springs.

Probly run 2.5 and the rear spacer then switch into the fj springs with the Bils set at 1.8.

Should I even bother trying to go 275 on the tires or just leave them and run the 265/70/17's?

Humm.. Based on your comment about not seeing the setup you were thinking about, you ended up with the most common setup on the forum (other than the DS setup). I expected you to get something that others haven't run based on your comment..
 
Ok. I was wanting to do something a little different, but like the look of the Bilstein/FJ cruiser spring look. So the Bilsteins are on the way and will possibly have the FJ Springs coming as well. Anyone know the shipping weight of 4 FJ springs by chance?
 
Ok. I was wanting to do something a little different, but like the look of the Bilstein/FJ cruiser spring look. So the Bilsteins are on the way and will possibly have the FJ Springs coming as well. Anyone know the shipping weight of 4 FJ springs by chance?

when i was shopping for springs, got crazy quotes like $80 from fedex and ups.

they come in at 40lbs IIRC
 
I am thinking of doing the Bilsteins at 2.5 with the FJ springs and the 1.5 rear with same springs.

Should I change anything else under there while I have it apart? I only want to be under once. I know I have asked a lot of questions, but the current tires are probly going to blow at anytime and are HORRIBLE!! Maybe 20% and dry rotting and rounded. Snow on the way so I'm pushing hard to get everything.
 
You may consider caster corrected upper control arms.

Many people don't do them and when they get their alignment the caster is so low it is out of spec. The low caster creates crappy feeling on the highway. Caster should be in the 3.5-4 range. Adding the 3" lift will bring it close to 2~ish.

UCA's can be had from many places. Light Racing (LR) makes the cheapest and is adjustable,~$379. Total Chaos, Camburg and Desert Products make Uni-ball UCA's but these are $600+.

I drove my truck without corrected UCA's and it was ok, but once I installed (installed extended travel suspension too) my Desert Products UCA's I was able to get the caster back to 3.75 and the total alignment was back in spec. It made a ton of difference.
 

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