What to inspect before buying a used 07 Sport V6 4WD?

[cmpcmp123]

Hello all. Long time lurker here. I have a 1994 4runner and it's about time trade up. I found a very nice 07 Sport V6 4WD. Most Toyota dealers offer pre-buy inspections. It is best to go through the dealer? I would assume they know the most about Toyotas but I have heard they will try to steer you to their own used/pre-owned inventory. Maybe it's best to use a private mechanic?

The owner said he has used the 4WD only a couple times. I know the transfer case can seize up if it is not used. Is there any way to check this? If it switches into 4WD without issue, am I good to go?

Anything else particular to this vehicle I should keep any eye out for? Thanks so much for everyone's help!

-Chris

 

[scw1991]

make sure it engages 2 HI to 4HI and also 4HI to 4LO. Also ensure you can engage center differential lock in either 4HI or 4LO.

I'd also do a visual inspection to see that your CV boots are in good shape.

Dealer should be able to tell you if the brake pads look good and you can do a visual of the tires to ensure there is ample tread left.

If it has the X-REAS sport shocks, I've read where those can leak over time and cost quite a bit to replace. Another visual inspection as well.

 

[NuclearN8]

Chris, I agree with scw1991 although my only show stopper to not buy the vehicle your looking at would be if the 2h,4h4L and center diff actuators didn't all work. Those little bad boys can be expensive to repair. The rest of the stuff will likely get replaced before the vehicle dies one way or another but I agree if you find something else wrong use it as negotiating leverage.

 

[youngr]

I would also check the brakes to make sure you dont have any stuck calipers. That is fairly common.

 

[SolRayz]

Although it is up in the air whether later 4th gen models have this issue, but check the dash meticulously for any cracks.

 

[cmpcmp123]

At the risk of sounding like an idiot, how would one test the 4HI/4LO and central differential lock? I can usually tell when a truck switches from 2wd to 4wd, but don't have enough experience with the 4th gens to know if it was really getting into 4LO and not just staying in 4HI or 2wd. What about the center diff locker? Any way to know it is getting engaged?

Thanks again guys

 

[Martinjmpr]

At the risk of sounding like an idiot, how would one test the 4HI/4LO and central differential lock? I can usually tell when a truck switches from 2wd to 4wd, but don't have enough experience with the 4th gens to know if it was really getting into 4LO and not just staying in 4HI or 2wd. What about the center diff locker? Any way to know it is getting engaged?

Thanks again guys

It's easy.

While driving (under 60mph but I'd recommend around 20-30 or so) turn the dial from 2wd to 4hi. There are two lights on the dash that will flash, one is a yellow one showing the 4 wheels with an 'x' the middle, the other is a green one with an "o" in the middle. They should flash for a few seconds (might be as long as 10 - 15 seconds) but then the yellow light should go off and the green light should go solid. This shows that you are in 4wd, Hi range, center diff unlocked (that is, the center diff is operating.)

Next, while still moving, push the Center Diff Lock (CDL) button to the left of the steering wheel. Again, both the green and yellow lights should flash but after a few seconds the green one should go out and the yellow one should be solid. Note that your ABS and VSC lights will also be on as the center diff lock disables these functions. If you are on pavement, try to do this on a straight road as doing a lot of turning with the center diff locked is not good for the transfer case or axles.

Once you've verified that the Center Diff Lock (CDL) works, push it again, again the green and yellow dash lights will flash and then the yellow one should go out and the green one should stay illuminated. The ABS and VSC lights should also go off.

Next, come to a complete STOP. Put the transmission in NEUTRAL, and turn the dial to 4 lo. The lights will again flash and next to the green light there should be a green display that says "4 LO" on the dash. If the CDL is UNLOCKED, you can drive as long as you want to in 4 lo, just remember your speed will be cut in half compared to 4 HI. You can test the CDL in 4 LO if you want to, but from what I've seen, the CDL either works or it doesn't, so if it works in 4 HI, it will work in 4 LO.

Finally, come to a complete STOP again, and again put the transmission in NEUTRAL. Switch the dial back to 2 HI. The lights should flash for a few seconds and then go off.

If you try to switch the T-case to 4 LO and you get an annoying beeping, it's either because you forgot to put the transmission in NEUTRAL, or there is something wrong with the system.

I know the above looks complicated, but it's really not. Shouldn't take you more than a couple of minutes on a test drive. If the 4wd system is not working, my recommendation is to pass on the vehicle unless you get it WRITTEN into the sales contract that the dealership will fix it. It's an expensive fix!

EDITED TO ADD: My experience with the ADD and electronic T-case is that it doesn't like to change from 2wd to 4wd when the engine is "under load." So it helps to take your foot off the gas pedal for a few seconds to let the system switch to either 2wd or 4wd.

Note that it's also possible to shift into 2wd or 4wd when the vehicle is stopped and the transmission is in Park.

 

[cmpcmp123]

Martinjmpr, thank you for such a thorough response. Another question; Is 4LO (and I guess 4HI too) activated immediately, or does it take some wheel rotations? If I turned the car off in 2wd, and start it in 4LO, am I in 4LO? I ask because I work at a ski resort and often my car is covered in feet of snow. I would like to be able to put it in 4LO from park and blast out.

 

[NuclearN8]

Martinjmpr, thank you for such a thorough response. Another question; Is 4LO (and I guess 4HI too) activated immediately, or does it take some wheel rotations? If I turned the car off in 2wd, and start it in 4LO, am I in 4LO? I ask because I work at a ski resort and often my car is covered in feet of snow. I would like to be able to put it in 4LO from park and blast out.

I'm pretty sure the manual says you need to be in 4hi before you attempt to switch into 4Lo... but I've never tried to get in, turn the key with foot on brake, put it in neutral and turn the knob to 4Lo... I be too sceared... haha
My experience is both (4Hi and 4Lo) tend to take some driveshaft (hence wheel) rotation to engage/ disengage (or at least hear the thud and see the lights match up)... not under load is always when it seems to slip in or out easiest for me as well.

If you don't own it, you can always try it on the test drive? I highly doubt the salesperson in the passenger seat will know how to do it as both of them broke out into cold sweats when I started playing with the knob and buttons to test it out on the test drives of my wife's 07 and my 05... kinda hilarious actually to watch them squirm...

either way... if the vehicle is CPO the actuators are covered under the limited powertrain warranty. I just got the 4Lo one in the transfer case replaced of my wife's 07 since it stopped working from lack of use over the past 18 months.. note to self cycle both 4runners through all actuators once a month because that repair bill is not friendly, just glad I didn't have to pay the $1800 this time since it was under warranty.

 

[cmpcmp123]

NuclearN8, unfortunately it is not a CPO. It's a private seller; a little ol' lady actually. That is great for everything except the 4wd drivetrain. That is why I am so concerned about testing the 4wd. She said she put it 4wd only a couple times since she bought it new. I would hate to have an $2000 repair bill in the near future : (

 

[03_4x4Runner]

Also inspect the transfer case actuator for leaks. If you do not use the 4x4 it can quit working but if you do use it the actuator eventually leaks and needs replaced ($2500).

 

[cmpcmp123]

Also inspect the transfer case actuator for leaks. If you do not use the 4x4 it can quit working but if you do you it the actuator eventually leaks and needs replaced ($2500).

Ha, so I'm f'ed either way you're saying? Are the 4wd actuators a common problem, even for those who regularly cycle into 4wd?

 

[NuclearN8]

NuclearN8, unfortunately it is not a CPO. It's a private seller; a little ol' lady actually. That is great for everything except the 4wd drivetrain. That is why I am so concerned about testing the 4wd. She said she put it 4wd only a couple times since she bought it new. I would hate to have an $2000 repair bill in the near future : (

yeah, if it doesn't work then I'd pass. Just not worth the headache in my eyes.

 

[cmpcmp123]

but if you do you it the actuator eventually leaks and needs replaced ($2500).

NuclearN8, it sounded like what 03_4x4Runner said was even if the 4wd system is good the actuators might leak from standard use? One of the main reasons I want another 4runner is the 4wd capability. Would hate to loose that.

So say she only put it in 4wd a couple time since she bought it new, but the 4wd and diff locker check out on the test drive. Am i still taking a risk?

 

[Martinjmpr]

Ha, so I'm f'ed either way you're saying? Are the 4wd actuators a common problem, even for those who regularly cycle into 4wd?

No, it's an extremely UNCOMMON problem.

Don't let the "squeaky wheel" effect of the internet let you think that these vehicles are problematic (IOW, the fact that people who have problems complain, while people who don't have problems, don't, which can lead you to believe problems are more common than they are.)

They aren't. They are extremely reliable. Make sure the 4wd works on the test drive and you're pretty much good to go. Then, once you buy one, just use 4wd once a month or so and you should be fine.

Worst case scenario: Everything checks out fine and 2 years later your actuator fails. OK, so lets say you have no mechanical talent (neither do I) so you have to pony up ~$2500 to fix it.

Not fun, I agree, but $2500 is still waaaaay less than the difference between what you paid for your '07 and what you'd pay for a new one with a warranty.

And if you're really obsessed, there are companies out there who would be glad to sell you an extended warranty. They love insuring vehicles like the 4runner because they know that the chances are it will never have any major problems (but they'll still have your money.)

 

[03_4x4Runner]

Here are several of many threads on the leak. It is becoming more common as these 4runner age. By the way, mine leaks.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/80283-2004-v8-4x4-actuator-replacement.html


http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/115316-what-leaking.html



http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/145072-transfer-case-leak-solinoid.html

 

[Martinjmpr]

. Am i still taking a risk?

Of course you are. It's a used car. It's a mechanical device and anything mechanical can break.

Your head gaskets can fail

Your transmission can fail.

Your ECU can fail.

Do these parts fail on 4runners? Yes, they do.

Are such failures "common?" No, they're not.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Martinjmpr, thank you for such a thorough response. Another question; Is 4LO (and I guess 4HI too) activated immediately, or does it take some wheel rotations? If I turned the car off in 2wd, and start it in 4LO, am I in 4LO? I ask because I work at a ski resort and often my car is covered in feet of snow. I would like to be able to put it in 4LO from park and blast out.

If it's in 4 lo when you park it, it will be in 4lo when you start.

In my experience it sometimes engages a little faster when moving than it does when standing still. This may have more to do with the ADD than it does with the transfer case, though.

 

[JB.]

it sounded like what 03_4x4Runner said was even if the 4wd system is good the actuators might leak from standard use? One of the main reasons I want another 4runner is the 4wd capability. Would hate to loose that.

So say she only put it in 4wd a couple time since she bought it new, but the 4wd and diff locker check out on the test drive. Am i still taking a risk?

He gets a little cranky on this subject 'cause his leaks.

The leak is not rampant but maybe a little more common than it should be. Hard to tell. The links below should make you feel better.

It's expensive if a full fix is required but if you pressed him further he would tell you that the leak is very slow and he just puts up with it and manages fine.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/159157-how-many-miles-your-4th-gen.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/37419-highest-mileage-4th-gen.html

 

[03_4x4Runner]

He gets a little cranky on this subject 'cause his leaks.

The leak is not rampant but maybe a little more common than it should be. Hard to tell. The links below should make you feel better.

It's expensive if a full fix is required but if you pressed him further he would tell you that the leak is very slow and he just puts up with it and manages fine.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/159157-how-many-miles-your-4th-gen.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/37419-highest-mileage-4th-gen.html

I am not cranky at all. Just saying that this problem is becoming more and more common. It did leak slow at first and got worse over time. I live with it because I put very few miles on my 4runner anymore. I made a catch pan to catch the oil so it does not make a mess in the garage and just top off the transfer case when needed. I am more cranky about my speedometer that quit working last year at only 72k miles. Other than these 2 problems everything is fine. When I look at the 5th gen transfer case it looks the same. I hope they updated the seals or they may have the same problems.