what will a CV Joint cost to have replaced?

RR90

New member
I just got my '00 SR5 back from the shop a few weeks ago for new shocks, struts, starter and a couple other minor things for $1100. Yesterday, my DS CV joint start popping and will need to be replaced. Anybody know what that might cost ?? Is it worth doing both at the same time?

Second part of my question... is there a list or website anywhere I could look up other typical repairs I might expect on this T4R after 180K ?? I'm trying to avoid or be aware of other $1000+ surpises that might come up.

It runs great, but I'm at the point wondering if it's time to replace it or continue to put money into it with that kind of milage. I've kept it very well maintained since new with regular oil chgs, major tune up around 110k including TB, WP, belts etc... Tires were replaced a few years ago.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Buying a complete new half shaft usually works out to be about the same price. I had my passenger side done for $245 I have been quoted labor of 85 a side for axle replacement and 127 a side for cv boot replacement. You would still need to get the parts those two numbers were labor only
 
I just got my '00 SR5 back from the shop a few weeks ago for new shocks, struts, starter and a couple other minor things for $1100. Yesterday, my DS CV joint start popping and will need to be replaced. Anybody know what that might cost ?? Is it worth doing both at the same time?

Second part of my question... is there a list or website anywhere I could look up other typical repairs I might expect on this T4R after 180K ?? I'm trying to avoid or be aware of other $1000+ surpises that might come up.

It runs great, but I'm at the point wondering if it's time to replace it or continue to put money into it with that kind of milage. I've kept it very well maintained since new with regular oil chgs, major tune up around 110k including TB, WP, belts etc... Tires were replaced a few years ago.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

Timing belt, water pump, front of engine service interval is coming up again......

I assume you mean the double cardan joint on the driveshaft? Try greasing it.

Suspension is no big suprise at 180K

Starter clicked but didn't start, probably http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml

Check this out also..... :cool:
2002 4Runner FSM (everything will be the same)
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/index.html
 
Timing belt, water pump, front of engine service interval is coming up again......

I assume you mean the double cardan joint on the driveshaft? Try greasing it.

Suspension is no big suprise at 180K

Starter clicked but didn't start, probably http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml

Check this out also..... :cool:
2002 4Runner FSM (everything will be the same)
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/index.html

I know all to well about the upcoming front-end service that will be needed (likely another 2k+). If I go that route, I'll redo the heads & valves too.

Good links, I did the starter already, but the other is a GREAT reference site regarding needed maintenance - THNX!
 
$245 for each side sounds about right for CV's. Replacing boots is worthless as the labor is just as intensive to replace the boot(s) as is it to repalce the entire joint. Save yourself the hassle down the road and just have the whole cv replaced. Both my boots are splits and I've been getting quotes from shops over the last few weeks, I've seen anything from $225 through $300, $245 sounds reasonable.
 
CV axles

Hit the trails last weekend, Barnwell Mountain in east Texas, ....., and for some stupid reason, I attempted a 4 diamond trail called Chaos Canyon. I made the whole trail until the very end where you have to climb a steep rock at an angle, and that is when it happened - snap. My PS CV axle outer joint cracked like an egg spilling its guts out right there on the trail. No more trails for the 4runner that day, and with help from some other guys with me, we were able get the short shaft out so I was able to drive home with no worries.

Question? (1) I know these replacements are available for around $50 - 100 for the entire axle, joint to joint, but what brand do any of you recommend. I am thinking of going ahead and replacing both, preferrably upgrading from the OEM stock ones, and keeping the DS one as a back-up, and (2) I have never attempted to replace one of these, are they easy enough for someone that has common tools, and/or is there a special tool required for pulling the axle out from the diff joint?
 
I did mine myself not that hard. But even if you're gonna take it to a shop get the axles yourself. I got ine from Advance Auto $70Advance Auto Parts: New CV Axle Shaft Assembly by GSP - Part NCV69142

Here's the kicker, I got both axles for the price of one. Bought the first one (driver's) which came with a lifetime warranty then a month later removed the pasenger side and took it in for the warranty exchange. Walked out with a bran new one for $0! $245 is rediculous! It only takes an hour per side. That's $175 an hr!

Where are you located? I'd help you do it for a case of the silver bullet!
 
I did mine myself not that hard. But even if you're gonna take it to a shop get the axles yourself. I got ine from Advance Auto $70Advance Auto Parts: New CV Axle Shaft Assembly by GSP - Part NCV69142

Here's the kicker, I got both axles for the price of one. Bought the first one (driver's) which came with a lifetime warranty then a month later removed the pasenger side and took it in for the warranty exchange. Walked out with a bran new one for $0! $245 is rediculous! It only takes an hour per side. That's $175 an hr!

Where are you located? I'd help you do it for a case of the silver bullet!

I appreciate the offer to help, and I will gladly provide a case of silver bullets if you want to come all the way to Dallas and help. I am pretty good at figuring things out and mechanically inclined. I think I will attempt it, but if I get stuck, I have a local mechanic up the street who can bail me out. THanks again for the offer though.
 
I appreciate the offer to help, and I will gladly provide a case of silver bullets if you want to come all the way to Dallas and help. I am pretty good at figuring things out and mechanically inclined. I think I will attempt it, but if I get stuck, I have a local mechanic up the street who can bail me out. THanks again for the offer though.

Yeah that's a wee bit far.

Basic rundown-

TOOLS-- large socket 34-36mm don't remember, ball joint splitter, big flat head or small pry bar, 3ft 2x4 and a BFH and gear oil 90wt 2qt

Simple insrtuctions-- remove wheel, dugh, remove black center cap with screw driver, remove pin and axle nut. Now loosen both ball joint nuts and break the ball joints loose without tearing up the boots like I did. You don't have to remove the steering. Pop the axle through. Then use the screw driver to pry the axle out of the diff.

Install is reverse. to get the axle to seat in the diff, set it in as far as it will go, hold it in line and bump the inside knuckle housing with the 2x4 and BFH and it should pop right in.

Good luck and hope I didn't miss everything. It's all from memory and of course I've only done the two.
 
Hey Jon and Elton, thanks for the instructions and write-up, that is just what I needed. I think I can handle on my own, but if not, I have some local off-road buddies that would probably lend a hand if needed.

Still wondering what brand of CV axles anybody would recommend - Empi, A1Carbone, GS, .....?

Thanks again.
 
if you wheel it, toyota OEM is the only way to go

I do wheel it, and it was the Toyota OEM that broke, ....., so I was wondering if there is a replacement that exceeds the quality of the OEM, ie: an upgrade. I'm not necessarily looking for a cheap replacement.
 
I do wheel it, and it was the Toyota OEM that broke, ....., so I was wondering if there is a replacement that exceeds the quality of the OEM, ie: an upgrade. I'm not necessarily looking for a cheap replacement.

I forgot to add, the Toyota OEM quoted to me from the dealership was $245 plus $75 core charge since mine was broke.
 
$245+75=way to much for a cv axle. HELL no! Don't waste ur money on tha garbage. The GSP's I got had thicker shafts and just overall looked beefier. I know it's all about the material and the knuckles but no way I'm ever goin to the stealership, ever. I can't say anything about the knuckle construction or quality on the new ones since they havn't broke yet.
 
$245+75=way to much for a cv axle. HELL no! Don't waste ur money on tha garbage. The GSP's I got had thicker shafts and just overall looked beefier. I know it's all about the material and the knuckles but no way I'm ever goin to the stealership, ever. I can't say anything about the knuckle construction or quality on the new ones since they havn't broke yet.

I agree - I can get two new ones for less that they want for one.
 
I did mine myself not that hard. But even if you're gonna take it to a shop get the axles yourself. I got ine from Advance Auto $70Advance Auto Parts: New CV Axle Shaft Assembly by GSP - Part NCV69142
Here's the kicker, I got both axles for the price of one. Bought the first one (driver's) which came with a lifetime warranty then a month later removed the pasenger side and took it in for the warranty exchange. Walked out with a bran new one for $0! $245 is rediculous! It only takes an hour per side. That's $175 an hr!

Where are you located? I'd help you do it for a case of the silver bullet!
Old thread, but got the information I was looking for.
They $95.99 where I live. I reaped mine installing the tundra struts.
Also thinking on replacing lower ball joints at the same time.
 
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