Whats missing from my rear driveshaft?

phatcheeks

New member
What is missing?

Rear main shaft.
According to Toyota the part 3711060A40 (driveshaft) was changed at 94k miles. Currently at 120k. Looks like the dealer put too much grease in and popped something out? Is it cool to drive like this? Ive driven like this for a while now (off roading and sand dunes as well) but didn't really notice it until today that it looked odd.

No clunk when driving off and coming too a stop. just the occasional clunk from drive to reverse and reverse to drive.

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Looks short to me, wrong part probably. If it has the same spline length as the correct part, it probably has only 1" of spline engagement.

Here are the pics of mine, factory 4th gen shaft:





Normal spline engagement:

 
Looks short to me, wrong part probably. If it has the same spline length as the correct part, it probably has only 1" of spline engagement.

Here are the pics of mine, factory 4th gen shaft:





Normal spline engagement:


Interesting. I wonder how the dealership installed the wrong part without seeing something wrong. This was done before my ownership.
Is it safe to run it like this? I haven't come across any issues as of yet.
I might just buy a used spare to keep in the trunk until something goes wrong.
 
That's not right.
Looks to short to me too.

Here is a v6, for reference.
 

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That's not right.
Looks to short to me too.

Here is a v6, for reference.

Shoot. Mine is definitely couple inches shorter. I wonder what part the dealership put on then.

Will I be fine with an aftermarket part or is OEM the way to go for these? I saw some cardone parts on Rock Auto for like 180
 
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Looks short to me, wrong part probably. If it has the same spline length as the correct part, it probably has only 1" of spline engagement.

Here are the pics of mine, factory 4th gen shaft:





Normal spline engagement:


Appreciate your photos of length. Been curious due to gradually getting to 4.5" lift. I kept seeing the travel marks getting longer as I increased height, even when flexed. Started to get worried as I'm getting a clunk in that area. Was hoping it was the problem versus I might have internal trans problems now.
[MENTION=388921]phatcheeks[/MENTION] they definitely put a shorter shaft, change dimensions, something.
As I have posted above lift on mine, I still cant see the splines at flex.
 
I am getting 40 1/8" length on the drive shaft...btw.
About 6 1/8" on the front side length.
 

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I think you said it was the rear axle, correct? The more lift you put in the longer the driveshaft needs to be.
Imagine a right angle triangle with the one point at the pinion on the rear end, the second point directly above that level with the transmission output and the final point being the transmission output itself. Increase the distance between the pinion and the point above the pinion, i.e. a lift, and the driveshaft will appear to get shorter but in reality the drivetrain geometry just wants a longer driveshaft. I've seen plenty of lifted trucks only running with a couple inches of spline engagement, does it work? Apparently for them. Would I run that for longer than it takes to get new driveshaft? No.
Go to a driveshaft specially shop, I always have the best luck dealing with commercial trucking places locally or 4x4 shops.
Of course I could be wrong but your statement of seeing it get worse as you lifted higher seems to correlate to me.
Everytime I've lifted something more that 5 inches I measure the crap out of driveshaft lengths vs transmission output shaft end to bearing surface on the rear end, most of the time they get new slightly longer driveshaft.
 
I think you said it was the rear axle, correct? The more lift you put in the longer the driveshaft needs to be.
Imagine a right angle triangle with the one point at the pinion on the rear end, the second point directly above that level with the transmission output and the final point being the transmission output itself. Increase the distance between the pinion and the point above the pinion, i.e. a lift, and the driveshaft will appear to get shorter but in reality the drivetrain geometry just wants a longer driveshaft. I've seen plenty of lifted trucks only running with a couple inches of spline engagement, does it work? Apparently for them. Would I run that for longer than it takes to get new driveshaft? No.
Go to a driveshaft specially shop, I always have the best luck dealing with commercial trucking places locally or 4x4 shops.
Of course I could be wrong but your statement of seeing it get worse as you lifted higher seems to correlate to me.
Everytime I've lifted something more that 5 inches I measure the crap out of driveshaft lengths vs transmission output shaft end to bearing surface on the rear end, most of the time they get new slightly longer driveshaft.

Interesting. From what I remember It was like that before I lifted it too.
 
Interesting. From what I remember It was like that before I lifted it too.
not likely. it will definitely need to be extended once lifted. its probably the correct/stock driveline.


you might be able to get away with a spacer, but having it re-tubed is the proper way to do it.
 
not likely. it will definitely need to be extended once lifted. its probably the correct/stock driveline.


you might be able to get away with a spacer, but having it re-tubed is the proper way to do it.

This is the first time I've ever heard anyone mention getting a lengthened driveshaft for a 4th gen. I haven't had any issues with mine at all and mine is lifted and I wheel it regularly. Stock length is fine
 
Once you guys crawl underneath you'll see that a lengthened driveshaft is not necessary for our trucks unless you are running longer shocks than Metaltech Long Travel and jumping your truck. Flexing the axle from side to side does not droop the driveshaft any, both tires have to be off the ground, and even then the driveshaft is so long it hardly extends any; I've measured. 1/2" extension and 1/2" compression from ride height is as much as the slip yoke slides on my truck with standard length Icon rear shocks. And it has 4" of safe travel room.
 
This is the first time I've ever heard anyone mention getting a lengthened driveshaft for a 4th gen. I haven't had any issues with mine at all and mine is lifted and I wheel it regularly. Stock length is fine

exactly. I have the same lift everyone else is running and this is the first im hearing of it as well.
 
Once you guys crawl underneath you'll see that a lengthened driveshaft is not necessary for our trucks unless you are running longer shocks than Metaltech Long Travel and jumping your truck. Flexing the axle from side to side does not droop the driveshaft any, both tires have to be off the ground, and even then the driveshaft is so long it hardly extends any; I've measured. 1/2" extension and 1/2" compression from ride height is as much as the slip yoke slides on my truck with standard length Icon rear shocks. And it has 4" of safe travel room.

It's not about diff droop, it's about static lift and angles.
Does anyone remember old school math?
A squared plus B squared equals C squared.
Run the math and you'll see that the distance from transmission to pinion increases as you lift it.
The more you lift the less engagement you get. Geometry doesn't lie especially since the op said he noticed it getting worse as he lifted it higher.
But to each his own, if I go that tall with mine I'm getting a longer driveshaft built so it has the correct spec for engagement at curb weight just sitting there.
Just because people haven't heard of it doesn't mean it doesn't exist...
Last comment not aimed at anyone in particular just addressing a random comment here or there.
 
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Does anyone remember old school math?
A squared plus B squared equals C squared.
Run the math and you'll see that the distance from transmission to pinion increases as you lift it.

Doing the match, a 6" to a 9" drop with a 40 inch driveshaft, you'll see the splines pull out .56". With mine lifted 3" in the rear I still have 1.75" of safe extension and 1.75" of safe compression room so lifting put my driveshaft dead center in it's safe travel zone.

And BTW, the OP hasn't had any problems with his short driveshaft, which is about 2" shorter than mine, other than the normal grease-related problem.

Plus if you buy a longer driveshaft for lift compensation you will risk over compressing when you bottom out the suspension.
 
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Doing the match, a 6" to a 9" drop with a 40 inch driveshaft, you'll see the splines pull out .56". With mine lifted 3" in the rear I still have 1.75" of safe extension and 1.75" of safe compression room so lifting put my driveshaft dead center in it's safe travel zone.

And BTW, the OP hasn't had any problems with his short driveshaft, which is about 2" shorter than mine, other than the normal grease-related problem.

Plus if you buy a longer driveshaft for lift compensation you will risk over compressing when you bottom out the suspension.

Where did the the op post measurements that are shorter than yours? I must have missed that.
If you mean front driveshaft by shorter driveshaft then the front goes to a fixed pumpkin that doesn't change with a lift, hence no need to change driveshafts.
What you really need to be concerned about being centered in the slip yokes with is suspension travel. Do you have the same amount of up and down travel? Then the slip should be centered. Not many vehicles have that articulation centered constantly. If you can droop 5 inches but only uptravel 2 then no, your slip yoke engagement is not correct. There is a lot of geometry involved with suspension, starting with accurate information on a case by case basis is crucial. That's why wheel spacers tax your steering components more, throws off the scrub radius geometry but what I mostly hear people talk about is added stain to the hubs.
When you order a driveshaft you measure everything out, you don't just guess at how long and see if it bottoms out or falls out.
Pull the springs and put it through a full articulation measuring distance as you go. Pretty hard to not get the right one if you know what your doing. That's how custom trucks get built by some people, everyone has different styles right?
Your truck at 3" lift is going to be different than the op at 4.5 inches of lift. Can you guarantee your rear end is at the same spot his is ? Links can be stretched, bent, distorted or some other issue that locate his rear end slightly different than yours. Maybe yours is a hair forward and his is a hair back. You just don't know that looking at your computer, things need to be accounted for in the real world.
Not trying to be a jerk or start a fight.
I hope the op goes to a driveshaft shop and just gets it checked out, it can't hurt anything and might possibly surprise everyone on the forum if they come back and say yeah, you need to stretch this. And I might be surprised when they say no, it's fine. And I'm done here now, good luck with getting it corrected!
 
Im only at about 3" of lift. Not 4.5". Also I am pretty sure it was like this before I lifted. Because when I first got the car and went to grease the driveshaft I remember seeing the same thing, but didn't think much of it. But this time I actually stared at it for a while and it looked wrong.

Im just going to drive as is for now. I've already been wheeling, lifted tires up, gone full flex and sand dunes and haven't had any issues. I just wanted to see everyone's opinion on the matter.
 

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