What's more of a pain in the A$$

...But if you do want to drop the whole skid on the RCI, it is only 4 bolts and takes about two minutes to drop it. Just dropped mine the other day to fix the dealership over fill after they changed my oil...:redbrick:
 
Correct. Much easier to drop the door than the whole skid plate.



I also recommend the Fumoto valve and the plastic nipples that clip on the valve with a short piece of hose.



I probably have about 10 or so oil changes on the RCI skids and Fumoto valve and I find it much easier with the RCI skids vs. dropping the OEM skids. I have the fumoto valve as well which pairs nice with the RCI skid plate. I'm pretty sure it would be somewhat messy without the Fumoto valve. Between the Fumoto valve and the nipple on the filter with a short piece of hose, I can easily change the oil without getting a drop on the garage floor. The trick is to make sure the engine is fully warmed up, like plan on driving it for a while before changing the oil as the Fumoto valve seems to restrict oil flow slightly. Also, the oil filter seems to drain better hot. I start draining the oil and the oil filter then move on to other maintenance such as tire rotations, greasing the u-joints etc., then come back to the engine oil once I know it is completely drained. Another way I look at it is, I would rather mess up the bolts/nuts for the oil filter door (which can be easily changed) vs. messing up the bolts/welded nuts in the frame for the whole skid plate. I also run the RCI skids and Fumoto valve on my 4th gen V6 but the oil filter is on top of the engine (much, much better design) so there's no oil filter door.

Do you use the Fumoto 103N on your 5th gen? Want to ensure the nipple has clearance under the skid plate. Also, do you just have the RCI front skid plate or did you get the filler plate too?

Thx

GP
 
Last edited:
Do you use the Fumoto 103N on your 5th gen? Want to ensure the nipple has clearance under the skid plate. Also, do you just have the RCI front skid plate or did you get the filler plate too?

Thx

GP

It's not the valve with the longer nipple, it's the stubby one: Fumoto Qwik Valve

Not sure exactly what part number it is. I just figured I would get the one RCI sells. I use this socket and a piece of 3/8" hose to drain the oil: SH-10: Socket for S-type Fumoto Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011SUPC8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_8Vcuzb7NN4HEN

I think there would be enough clearance to use the longer nipple version as long as you don't play on the rocks too much.

This reminds me, I need to order a Fumoto valve for the Tundra as well.
 
...But if you do want to drop the whole skid on the RCI, it is only 4 bolts and takes about two minutes to drop it. Just dropped mine the other day to fix the dealership over fill after they changed my oil...:redbrick:


The concern for me is breaking the welds on the frame that holds the welded nut that the skids bolt to. If your not careful, one day you will have a spinning bolt that won't loosen, and a skid plate that wont drop. I'm a monkey when it comes to tools, so yeah, anything to protect my machine from my own carelessness is welcomed...lol
 
The TRD is only 4 Bolts, but it can be a bit annoying to line back up if you've lost the captive washers (which happens more often than you'd think). That's also assuming the threads in the frame and the bolts are good still and you didn't accidentally cross thread one or more (again more often than you'd think.)
 
Anyone else with RCI skid plates that has actually done an oil change and can confirm it can easily be done without dropping the skid plate?

I have one and the oil changes are easy, you do not drop the skid. That's one reason I got the RCI, actually. You do make a little mess with the old oil splashing on the top of the plate, but nothing terrible.

Thanks for the tip on the anti-seize, I would DEFINITELY want to do that. Is it just any old run-of-the-mill anti-seize from an automotive store?

Any anti seize, or really any grease at all is fine. I think I just used the same stuff I grease my driveshaft with.

Also, do you just have the RCI front skid plate or did you get the filler plate too?

Not directed at me, but you can run the factory plastic filler plate with the RCI, you have to trim it slightly and I used two zip ties to secure the rear portion of it to the radiator supports (the bolt holes on the rear portion get trimmed off). The front portion of the filler plate still attaches with the OEM bolts in the OEM holes.


RCI has aluminum skid plates as well that are fairly light-weight. They do look thicker than the PRO ones so I am sure they weigh more.

The front RCI aluminum weighs 19 pounds, which is 5 pounds more than the 2 thin steel OEM plates it replaces.

(non KDSS shown)

DSC_0293-XL.jpg
 
Last edited:
The TRD is only 4 Bolts, but it can be a bit annoying to line back up if you've lost the captive washers (which happens more often than you'd think). That's also assuming the threads in the frame and the bolts are good still and you didn't accidentally cross thread one or more (again more often than you'd think.)

If you have a TRD skid plate, do this to avoid the issues [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] just mentioned.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/239833-if-you-have-trd-skid-plate-read.html
 
If you have a TRD skid plate, do this to avoid the issues [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] just mentioned.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/239833-if-you-have-trd-skid-plate-read.html

I have a jar of M8x1.25 from doing a lot of running boards and such at our dealership (we install a lot of NFab boards for customers). So when I get one that's got chewed up threads I chuck all the bolts, chase the threads and send it on it's way when doing a service. Just not worth the damn hassle otherwise. lol
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,315
Messages
3,554,123
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top