Whats the best battery these days

Out of these choices, which would you guys go with?

  • O'Reilly SuperStart Extreme 750 CCA - $157
  • Costco Interstate 710 CCA - $90
  • Autozone Duralast Gold 750 CCA - $160
  • Walmart EverStart Maxx 750 CCA - $94

Not sure why the Costco and Walmart ones are so much cheaper than O'Reilly and Autozone's.

O'Reilly's Super Start Platinum (AGM)

And one of these. Sometimes Dirty Parts has them in stock.

MK3 Mini blade 7.5A (Electronic fuse version) | HKB Electronics
 
Dual Battery Optimas (yellowtop) and CTEK System

If running an overland setup, best dual battery system in my opinion includes the CTEK if considering AMG batteries. D250SA is a battery to battery charger. The SmartPass 120 piggy backs the D250SA and 'ups the amps' and charges at a full 15.2 amps. AMG batteries need to be fully charged at a higher amperage than your alternator puts out. So not only does the SmartPass 120 correctly charge your aux battery. It actually feeds and charges your main battery to the correct level needed for AGM batteries making your batteries last longer.

If that wasn't enough, if your primary is ever drained, the smart CTEK system will use your aux battery to load your primary and give you a jump start. All in, both cteks and 2 yellowtop optima batteries will cost you $1250 if money is not an option.

If interested let me know, I have all the wiring schemas. Good luck

D250SA
SmartPass 120
 
[MENTION=173546]RockyMtn4RunnerG5[/MENTION]

I think you meant to say AGM batteries need to be fully charged at a higher VOLTAGE than your alternator puts out…

The alternator is already capable of delivering much higher currents (amperage) than a CTEK / D250SA. It is the top end charge voltage that the AGM needs to be considered 100% state of charge.
 
[MENTION=173546]RockyMtn4RunnerG5[/MENTION]

I think you meant to say AGM batteries need to be fully charged at a higher VOLTAGE than your alternator puts out…

The alternator is already capable of delivering much higher currents (amperage) than a CTEK / D250SA. It is the top end charge voltage that the AGM needs to be considered 100% state of charge.

Yep, slip of terms. 15.2 volts charge. Slip of wrong terminology.
 
Sure, I figured as much...

When I had an AGM setup in a different truck, I used a Victron DC-DC voltage converter to maintain and charge the AGM.

A relay wired to key-on made it run only when the engine was running... basically acted similar to the core function of the CTEK / Redarc

For $64, not a bad option depending on how much current you actually need moving to the AGM, more than adequate for a fridge. 18A version is about $117

Victron Energy Orion-TR 12/12-18A (220W) Isolated DC-DC converter

I've even made my own using a cheap-o Chinese DC-DC CC/CV boost converter for < $10 for a smaller AGM setup.
 
Update: Lasted exactly 3 years and they won't replace under warranty because it says "need charge" and not "defective" when they test it.

Sorry for the bump! But funny that I had this battery in my cart to order, then ran across this post.

Delayed buying, will look more, still might buy, but it is a pet peeve when they pull this warranty BS.
 
Logged in to share a thing I found out recently.

My wife killed her factory battery one too many times for me to bring it back with a charger tender. Replaced it with a Costco interstate 2 yesterday ago. With this covid19, the battery died from not driving it for months. Went to Costco to get another one yesterday. Thinking I'll bring the battery to get credit for the core instead of making two trips.

Well, they refunded me the whole thing. Every penny, I bought a new one and got refunded 4 bucks because new one was cheaper.

I also bought a battery for my truck but back then they only had 24f in stock. Brought it back to Costco for warranty, they just refunded me the whole thing. Then I bought a new 27f for 1.06 more.

I'd recommend you go to Costco... Send like I'm going to have a lifetime of replacements going on. Every two years I'll be getting a new battery lol.
 

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