Wheel sizing: Need help asap!

[Keros]

The counter-argument to that is you will end up with cut sidewalls. Especially when you air down and you have Duratracs with weak sidewalls already. So bigger tires with strong sidewalls with wider rims no bigger than 17" might be the ticket. I don't care as much about rim damage as I do about sidewall punctures.

I was intending on getting an 18x9 wheel with 285/60R18. However, lots of research here has indicated that the downside of wide rims is that airing down the tire can make it easy to drop the bead if one bloats the tire too much in the rough.

Apparently being at the bottom of the approved rim width range for a listed tire specification means you can air down alot. Being in the middle, one should air down only moderately... and of course, modesty would be the best pursuit for those at the top of the rim width range.

Hey, so I'm looking to buy

18" rims : fuel assault 18x9

And I also want to get: nitto trail grapplers AS BIG AS I CAN GET, that will fit on my 4th Gen 4Runner

Right now, I have stock lift and suspension and I have a 3" spacer in the front.

So my question is, what is the biggest tire size I can fit on my 2008 v8 4x4 sport 4Runner using the 18x9 rims I wanted. In the future I also am planning on getting a lift kit of a good 2-3" front and back.


Please help! I know there are many threads on this topic, but after years of pondering which rims and tires I want, I just need help sizing now!

Please share your knowledge and reply!

I would advise that offset is likely an important consideration. Most members seem to have chosen somewhere within 0 to -12 offset for 9" wide rims and gotten really nice results. Any higher than 0 can have contact with the UCA/UBJ, and that's no fun; tire size dependent. And besides, the lower offset wheels just look awesome.

Generally you'll need to chose next the diameter: 31.5", 32.2", 32.7" or 33". Any larger than 33" may not be amicable for city/highway or fuel economy. Tire weight generally climbs with diameter, and LT or P spec. More weight sucks more gas and slows you down.

Tire widths of 265 will treat you well (and likely be the best in winter). Depending on the height you may end up with a 275... but if you want a 285, you may have to do some chopping.

A challenge you may have is deciding which tire you want... and then realize that the size you wanted doesn't come in that tire. Example is that General Grabber AT2 doesn't come in 285/65R18 (~32.6"), but you can get a 285/60R18 (~31.5")

It may be easier to decide the tire you want and then go with the size that best fits the look you're going for.

As far as I know you it's hard to get a 31.5" tall tire in a 285 profile on a 17" rim on most popular tires. I've seen that one would need to be in the mid 32"'s to get that tread width.

Hopefully that's some general info to take you in the right direction.

 

[4rcybr]

I was just thinking a wheel with a thinner edge, like the FN Six Shooter, would be more prone to scraping or denting the lip and would protect the tire less than a rim with a large lip that you get with the fake beadlock style. Not that I've heard of this happening, just something to consider. I know that with a wheel like the six shooter, I would have shredded the spokes on a rock long ago like my brother's factory FJ wheels. My SCS spokes are perfectly fine because the fake beadlock has saved them. I suppose this only really matters to those that trash their truck in the rocks. :guitar3:

It is significantly thicker than mine (not the best pic, but it's dark now so I'm just using one I had).

Of course mine doesn't show scratches as much as a black one, and usually, the impacts are on the kickout not the wheel.

Interesting thought though. I'm sure someone has done some significant testing as to what holds up best in rocky terrain, I wonder if they've ever published it.

 

[CruzadoBlanco]

im still baffled with how hard it is for some of yall to be able to run 33s or even just a 31.5. its hard to grasp how different the angles can be and all that fun stuff. i hardly rubbed with my 285/70r17 cooper ST MAXXs, and those ran big for 285s, like a 33.1 or something like that. now for my 35s i had to cut hammer every little thing possible, but i also run a small body lift and have unrestricted travel.

as to address the actual question, i would imagine a 265/70r17 with a 3.75 or 3.5 inch back spaced wheel would fit almost no problem. if youre willing to cut then you could go with a 255/80 or something else in the pizza cutter realm. i personally advise to not run an 18 since its so much more wheel that can be damaged. and also if your gonna run no wider than a 285 try to find an inch wide wheel or so. i run my 35x12.50s on an OEM 7.5 inch wide FJ wheel for the maximum bead protection and since it hold the tire so much better (more clamping force since its compressing the tire more) than a wider wheel i can air down to 10-12 psi without an issue to wheel it.

as for the tire the nitto is not a bad tire, im glad you didnt say duratracs since those are trash and have feminine side walls. i would suggest also looking at coopers and maybe the new procomp AT if its mainly a street driven vehicle, maybe even the new BFG TA-KO2.

i just realized i can almost never have short answers anymore.

 

[j4run]

Be aware you're going to have a stack of compromises with those tires, which IMHO is a waste for a city truck. The ties will suck on ice, and on hard snow (the big cleats will likely do OK on soft snow). Those huge tires are heavy, and even with the V8 you'll likely notice the performance hit. Gas mileage will suffer, they will be noisy, and the ride will be both harsh and the rough. They're going to throw a lot of mud and crap on your truck and all the cars behind you. If you get really big tires, you'll likely need new upper control arms to get the alignment right (the UCA may also help the rubbing issue).

Go for it if you have the $$ are really want that look but be aware it's a lot of expense and discomfort for the look.