Wheelers Offroad brake lines - Poor fit and finish

APhelps

New member
I purchased a set of wheelers offroad brake lines for the front and rear. The rear seemed to go on without too much difficulty but the front ones are a totally different story. Managed to get one on with some difficulty but can't get the other one to thread in no matter what. Customer service is poor since I sent them pictures of the threading and me attempting to installing the last brake line. They seemed to believe that it was simply user error, but my stock brake lines goes back on just fine. The Toyota OEM line will just screw right back into place with zero difficulty. Unfortunately I don't have a tap of 10 x 1.0 mm to attempt to re-tap the threading of the line.

Likewise here's a few threads of other 4R owners struggling with their installs:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-...ormance-brake-line-install-struggle-real.html

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/220123-wheelers-off-road-rear-extended-brake-lines.html
 
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Mine went together ok and don't leak, but one of them has a giant 17mm hex where it should have that oval with flats to fit back in the bracket. I had to zip tie it to the bracket to secure it. I am not super impressed.
 
I purchased a set of wheelers offroad brake lines for the front and rear. The rear seemed to go on without too much difficulty but the front ones are a totally different story. Managed to get one on with some difficulty but can't get the other one to thread in no matter what. Customer service is poor since I sent them pictures of the threading and me attempting to installing the last brake line. They seemed to believe that it was simply user error, but my stock brake lines goes back on just fine. The Toyota OEM line will just screw right back into place with zero difficulty. Unfortunately I don't have a tap of 10 x 1.0 mm to attempt to re-tap the threading of the line.

Likewise here's a few threads of other 4R owners struggling with their installs:

Wheelers performance brake line install...THE STRUGGLE IS REAL

Wheelers off-road rear extended brake lines
I didn't have any fitment or design issues with mine. You are only replacing the rubber hose and not the hard line as well right?
 
That's unfortunate... if you do need to replace them, I would consider the Goodridge G-Stop Brake Lines, those worked out pretty well for me.
 
That's unfortunate... if you do need to replace them, I would consider the Goodridge G-Stop Brake Lines, those worked out pretty well for me.

I think I'm going to order a 10 x 1.0 mm tap/die and see if that gets the job done. The threads don't engage enough to screw in so I'm a bit leery of buying the tools.

Just figured I'd condense some information on this forum when people search for brake lines. Not fun spending money and time on parts that don't just fit.
 
I had issues fitting one of Wheeler's rear brake lines on my 02 (01-02 have 2 rear lines). Had to get a dremel to grind down the hex end on the brake line to fit it into the rear bracket. Didn't have issues with the front lines. I contacted wheeler afterwards just so they were aware & to see if they had come across this before and they told me this was the first time they heard of the any fitment issues (January 2019).

I didn't have any issues installing toytec's front and rear lines previously but the plastic covering around their brake lines started to tear apart after several thousand miles. So far Wheeler's outer covering has not deteriorated.
 
to me a person should not have to modify or tap and die or grind to make fit. Other than being a mod to go from rubber to stainless, there should be no issues with fitment for lines made for that rig. This is not a "major" mod where I would expect to have issues. That is too bad.

I used Russell ss brake lines when doing my TBU and new rear cylinders ( as well as springs air lifts and shocks at the time,) afterwards have heard not the best quality (Russell)..but had no fitment problems front or back and 30+k later still doing their job
 
to me a person should not have to modify or tap and die or grind to make fit. Other than being a mod to go from rubber to stainless, there should be no issues with fitment for lines made for that rig. This is not a "major" mod where I would expect to have issues. That is too bad.

Agreed... personally I would have returned for refund before modifying the part to make it work.

Note: The fit and finished of the Goodridge likes were great.
 
Same here, I would not modify brake lines. If there’s a QC issue then the vendor needs to take the item back. Too much safety risk to mess with it.

I wanted Wheelers lines when I did the mod a couple years ago but they were out of stock (for like 2 months I might add). So I ended up with StopTech and they have been perfect.
 
[MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION]
[MENTION=124615]3bears[/MENTION]
[MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION]

I think? maybe this has something to do with the fitment issues? I have noticed there are a couple of different tube nut configs, they are also designed to work with a very specific female connection.

if you look at the pics, all of these are OEM Toyota tube nuts. you can see the first pic has a collar before the threads start. these are generally used for longer runs and union connections.

the other pic shows a type used on most calipers or cylinder connections.

some of the aftermarket parts are made to work only with the non collards connectors. they have a much shallower female socket so you can't even get the threads started. I had to swap out flange nuts when I did my rear disc brake conversion because the mustang flex hoses will only accept the non collared tube nuts. I think this is exactly what is being described here? toyota thinks your going to use their flex line and it's going to have a deeper socket for the collared tube nut. wheelers maybe missed this detail?

<a href="https://imgur.com/oKLa0Vj"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/oKLa0Vjl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/9hxIXpL"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/9hxIXpLl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
I think? maybe this has something to do with the fitment issues? I have noticed there are a couple of different tube nut configs, they are also designed to work with a very specific female connection.

if you look at the pics, all of these are OEM Toyota tube nuts. you can see the first pic has a collar before the threads start. these are generally used for longer runs and union connections.

the other pic shows a type used on most calipers or cylinder connections.

some of the aftermarket parts are made to work only with the non collards connectors. they have a much shallower female socket so you can't even get the threads started. I had to swap out flange nuts when I did my rear disc brake conversion because the mustang flex hoses will only accept the non collared tube nuts. I think this is exactly what is being described here? toyota thinks your going to use their flex line and it's going to have a deeper socket for the collared tube nut. wheelers maybe missed this detail?

Interesting observation. Makes sense that could contribute to issues threading on an aftermarket brake line. I actually didn't pay attention to how far I was able to thread on the new line but was able to get it snug with no leaks. The problem I ran into was the metal end on Wheeler's rear brake line was too big to seat properly in the bracket.


Same here, I would not modify brake lines. If there’s a QC issue then the vendor needs to take the item back. Too much safety risk to mess with it.

I wanted Wheelers lines when I did the mod a couple years ago but they were out of stock (for like 2 months I might add). So I ended up with StopTech and they have been perfect.

Totally would have contacted Wheelers about a replacement/refund if I realized this issue before having everything removed & the front lines already installed. Since this is my DD I couldn't have it down another week waiting on parts because it was already out of commission for a week when I unexpectedly had to wait on parts to replace a leaking wheel cylinder when I was changing my rear brakes. Also didn't want to go through this process again because I highly dislike messing with dripping brake fluid.

Edit:
The reason I decided to shave a little material off the metal end of Wheeler's line instead of the bracket was because I didn't want to permanently alter something on my vehicle that could cause potential fitment issues for future brake line replacements.
 
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I'll give them a call and see if they'll exchange the brake line but I'm not terribly hopeful since I ordered them like 6 months ago. Hence why I'm thinking of just tapping the threading. In any regards these are just brake lines, it's not like I'm developing the MCAS for the Boeing 737.
 
I'll give them a call and see if they'll exchange the brake line but I'm not terribly hopeful since I ordered them like 6 months ago. Hence why I'm thinking of just tapping the threading. In any regards these are just brake lines, it's not like I'm developing the MCAS for the Boeing 737.

I have made a ton of my own brake lines. as long as you have a decent flair tool the hard lines are a snap.

the flex lines can be made by a lot of shops, I have one local and I just take in the connections and ask them to make me a 11" flex line. boom done. they charge a fraction of the big house shops like wheelers and I get exactly what I'm after and I know it will work.

maybe ask around and find a decent local hydraulic shop?
 
Another con to the Wheeler's brake line is that it leaks so badly while you are tightening up. Regular lines are crimped so you just need a little pressure to keep brake fluid from coming out and making a mess. You need to almost fully tighten the Wheeler's line to keep brake fluid from leaking.
 
I bought brake lines from wheelers and had no problem at all with the install, maybe I got lucky I guess.. I did end up going with the Tacoma front lines to eliminate the hard line though.
 
I bought brake lines from wheelers and had no problem at all with the install, maybe I got lucky I guess.. I did end up going with the Tacoma front lines to eliminate the hard line though.

Bumping an old thread. I've searched high and low for the dimensions of the banjo both that comes with the Wheelers Off-road Tacoma front line kit and I can't find that info anywhere.

I was doing the TBU today and replacing soft lines and lower hard lines with the Wheelers braided lines and snapped one of the banjo bolts in the caliper. (When they say only tighten to 12-14 lb-ft they mean it).

Fortunately I managed to get the stump of the bolt out, but now I need another one. Anyone know the diameter, thread pitch and length?
.
 
Bumping an old thread. I've searched high and low for the dimensions of the banjo both that comes with the Wheelers Off-road Tacoma front line kit and I can't find that info anywhere.



I was doing the TBU today and replacing soft lines and lower hard lines with the Wheelers braided lines and snapped one of the banjo bolts in the caliper. (When they say only tighten to 12-14 lb-ft they mean it).



Fortunately I managed to get the stump of the bolt out, but now I need another one. Anyone know the diameter, thread pitch and length?

.
Did you check with the mfg? See if they can sell you replacement banjo bolt? As I am sure you are notth only one to do this. :)

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
 
I didn't have any issues installing the Wheeler's brake lines, but the fittings rusted in less than a year, and that's with hardly any driving and in a dry CA climate.

I understand that it's mostly a cosmetic issue, but the OEM plating lasted a good 20 years.

I did contact Wheeler's, but never heard back.
 

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