Wheeling: sway bars or no

octanejunkie

octanejunkie

Elite Member
I don't do any hardcore wheeling, but I'm pretty sure my sway bars are limiting my suspension travel and have contemplated disconnecting them on wheeling outings

Would love to hear some feedback from guys with daily drivers that they use for occasional wheeling and removal of sway bar end links versus simply disconnecting them temporarily and reconnecting them before hitting the highway vs leaving them as is

EDIT: I have replaced my rear endlinks with earlier Toyota (longer) end links after lifting the rear but am still running the stock length up front, both of which have torn boots, so it's time to replace/upgrade
 
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I'm not bias or anything, but I'd keep them.

I've run without sway bar links in the past, and put them back on. You'll have better road manners, and you won't wear out parts as fast. When lifted the OEM links will limit your travel some, and adding longer links will improve that.

A lot of people want to remove links without thinking about the repercussions of doing that. People will argue that removing the links completely won't cause any issues, but this isn't true.
 
I disconnect my driver's side front link at the trailhead and put it back on before I leave. It makes a huge difference in the front travel.

Rear doesn't make a huge difference on or off, but I don't have one any more because I was too lazy to put it back on after my elocker axle swap.
 
MStudt said:
I'm not bias or anything, but I'd keep them.

I've run without sway bar links in the past, and put them back on. You'll have better road manners, and you won't wear out parts as fast. When lifted the OEM links will limit your travel some, and adding longer links will improve that.
Click to expand...

I edited my first post to note that I added longer end links to my rear to compensate for lift, but I'm about to lift the front more and would like to do the same.

I have no intention of driving on streets and highways without swaybars, just wondering about discoing them on the trails

4RunnerAquasport said:
Mike your not much of a salesman. OP, I've had great results with Mikes ASB Links on my 5th gen.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-suspension-wheels-tires/160563-sway-bar-links-saint-louis-mo.html
Click to expand...

LOL, no kidding, but he did hedge in his first sentence :D

Chuckles89 said:
I disconnect my driver's side front link at the trailhead and put it back on before I leave. It makes a huge difference in the front travel.

Rear doesn't make a huge difference on or off, but I don't have one any more because I was too lazy to put it back on after my elocker axle swap.
Click to expand...

Are you saying you disconnect ONE side only for trail use?
 
I don't hardcore off road either and on the hunting trails that I take my rig out on, it's pointless to disconnect the sway bar links.

If you're crawling over boulders and such, it probably helps.
 
octanejunkie said:
I edited my first post to note that I added longer end links to my rear to compensate for lift, but I'm about to lift the front more and would like to do the same.

I have no intention of driving on streets and highways without swaybars, just wondering about discoing them on the trails



LOL, no kidding, but he did hedge in his first sentence :D



Are you saying you disconnect ONE side only for trail use?
Click to expand...

Good thread Mike, thanks for starting it.

I believe he does mean just one side. That's what I did at least in other applications, track and off-road... Pick the side easiest or quickest to access.
 
The most technically correct answer is to keep the rear connected and disconnect the front.

In the rear, with inboard mounted springs and solid axle, you "should" have a swaybar to increase the roll rate to approximately match the wheel rate.

In the front, with independent suspension, the wheel rate and roll rate of the suspension are exactly equal with no swaybar. Adding the swaybar will increase roll rate above the wheel rate - good for the street but bad off road.

That said, it will be personal preference how to run off road... It depends on terrain, driving style, etc. too.

(my last trip to the desert was with F/R Addco bars connected... let's just say there wasn't much articulation)

-Charlie
 
phattyduck said:
The most technically correct answer is to keep the rear connected and disconnect the front.

In the rear, with inboard mounted springs and solid axle, you "should" have a swaybar to increase the roll rate to approximately match the wheel rate.

In the front, with independent suspension, the wheel rate and roll rate of the suspension are exactly equal with no swaybar. Adding the swaybar will increase roll rate above the wheel rate - good for the street but bad off road.

That said, it will be personal preference how to run off road... It depends on terrain, driving style, etc. too.

(my last trip to the desert was with F/R Addco bars connected... let's just say there wasn't much articulation)

-Charlie
Click to expand...

I guess the easy answer for me will be to try discoing one side on my next outing and see how it behaves

Now the question is, remove the entire endlink or just the top bolt and remove the bushings and strap the arm to the LCA?
 
octanejunkie said:
Are you saying you disconnect ONE side only for trail use?
Click to expand...

TonyB66 said:
I believe he does mean just one side. That's what I did at least in other applications, track and off-road... Pick the side easiest or quickest to access.
Click to expand...

Yes, you only need to disconnect 1 side in the front because it will let the connected side have independent play as there is nothing connected to the other end of the bar.
 
octanejunkie said:
I guess the easy answer for me will be to try discoing one side on my next outing and see how it behaves

Now the question is, remove the entire endlink or just the top bolt and remove the bushings and strap the arm to the LCA?
Click to expand...

I used to just disconnect the top nut and bushings, but it wound up flopping around too much and it would hit on things when I flexed and I wound up bending 2 of them after a year or so of doing it that way.

Now, I just carry a ratcheting wrench and allen key to take the whole thing off. Grease or anti seize on the threads makes it really easy.
 
octanejunkie said:
I guess the easy answer for me will be to try discoing one side on my next outing and see how it behaves

Now the question is, remove the entire endlink or just the top bolt and remove the bushings and strap the arm to the LCA?
Click to expand...

I used to disconnect one side till I broke that link. I now disconnect both sides but remove entire link.

I have tested it on and off on the trails and disconnected is night and day better for helping limit lifting a tire. Crucial with open diffs.
 
Chuckles89 said:
I used to just disconnect the top nut and bushings, but it wound up flopping around too much and it would hit on things when I flexed and I wound up bending 2 of them after a year or so of doing it that way.

Now, I just carry a ratcheting wrench and allen key to take the whole thing off. Grease or anti seize on the threads makes it really easy.
Click to expand...

I kept a bag of zip ties in the vehicle and would just quickly secure it from flopping around. When done, use my multi-tool (think Leatherman) to cut it free, then re-attach. Not sure that is a viable approach with these...
 
TonyB66 said:
I kept a bag of zip ties in the vehicle and would just quickly secure it from flopping around. When done, use my multi-tool (think Leatherman) to cut it free, then re-attach. Not sure that is a viable approach with these...
Click to expand...

I have zip ties and wire cutters on the truck at all times; as well as gaffers tape, a tarp, a bag of lye and a shovel :twitch:
 
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