When do your brakes wear out

[Trdsupranick]

I tow a 17ft boat and a 10x6 utility trailer often plus a mix city street and highway. 65000 on original brakes thinking of doing them in fall should i get crossed drilled and slotted rotors?what about ceramic pads?

I have been asking around about different pads i.e. like going with aftermarket or OEM. Everyone seems to tell me to find the cheapest pretty much. If you can find OEM for reasonable price cool.

I heard that some of the more expensive pads will actually make more noise while braking if you can stand it....I guess the more expensive pads have more metal in them. The cheaper regular have less metal therefore no screaks..


I would also love to know if cross drilled and slotted would be a good choice.

I have to order 4 pads and 4 rotors this week so i am in the same boat.


DOES ANYONE HAVE SUGGESTIONS WHAT PADS AND ROTORS I SHOULD PURCHASE WITH PRICE IN MIND....?? THANKS

 

[eskimochaos]

I'm surprised you guys are looking for more stopping power. I am continually amazed at just how good the OEM brakes are. Furthermore, you dont get an insane amount of break dust all over your wheels after driving unlike BMW's. Their wheels never look clean - they should come from the factory with black wheels lol.

 

[Trdsupranick]

Had to buy new pads for all 4 wheels.

I bought ADAPTIVE ONES from Napa $50 bucks for front $45 for rears.

I also had to buy new rotors for front. Napa Ultra Premiums. 65 bucks a piece.

Oh yea did I mention as I was changing my pads both front calipers were not behaving and some of the pistons were not compacting!!!! So....

I also had to buy 2 new calipers in the front!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My truck is always babied and only has 90,000 miles on it! Not too happy about having to replace the front calipers! I will get $70 bucks back in mail in rebates from Napa! YEA!!!

 

[Annoyed]

Ok, first, any poll regarding brake wear is utterly meaningless as the biggest single factor is the nut behind the wheel. Myself, I'm a very aggressive driver and I use my brakes hard, so I have to replace frequently. Haven't had the T4R long enough yet, but my Tacoma's OEM brakes went 40K before the front pads needed replacement. I also replaced the rear pads at that time, just to prevent having to frak around with it in January.


A few words on replacement parts & the quality of workmanship.

Avoid the cheap crap. Always.

As far as the pads go, based on my Tacoma, the OEM pads are fine. I was actually surprised that they made it to 40K. I've had the off-brand that you get at parts stores on vehicles in the past, and usually, I don't get 20K out of them. Those Toyota OEM pads on that Taco impressed me right down to my socks. And that's what I'll put on the T4R when the time comes. Probably before the time comes; if I get an extra day off work and my body isn't aching too much to start a project, I'll replace them just so that I know what is on there. (I bought this T4R used)

Second, the rotors. sales claims otherwise, there is a definite difference in the quality of the steel used. The cheap "white box" rotors just won't last as well as the good stuff will. They will warp at lower temperatures, and wear quicker. You could give me a set of white box rotors for my T4R, and I would hand them back to you, and go down to the local dealer and buy the OEMS, or maybe consider slotted premium aftermarkets.

And finally, a few words about quality of workmanship.

When I replaced the front pads on that Tacoma, I also had the rotors & drums turned, general "best practices".

However, I did this on a Sunday, and forgot to consider that none of the better auto shops would be able to turn rotors on a Sunday, so I made the mistake of taking them to the local Pep boys, as they had the advantage of being the only place with a lathe that was open.

Sure enough, these semi-trained monkeys frakked up the rotors. I ended up having to wait till Monday & getting a new set from the local Toyota dealer. Yes, I know. My own damned fault for not planning the job better and taking them to Pep boys to begin with. But I didn't want to have any downtime.

Yes, it can be tempting to use lower cost replacement parts from NAPA/CarQuest or whatever is in your area, but in the long run, it's not worth it.

 

[Trdsupranick]

Ok, first, any poll regarding brake wear is utterly meaningless as the biggest single factor is the nut behind the wheel. Myself, I'm a very aggressive driver and I use my brakes hard, so I have to replace frequently. Haven't had the T4R long enough yet, but my Tacoma's OEM brakes went 40K before the front pads needed replacement. I also replaced the rear pads at that time, just to prevent having to frak around with it in January.


A few words on replacement parts & the quality of workmanship.

Avoid the cheap crap. Always.

As far as the pads go, based on my Tacoma, the OEM pads are fine. I was actually surprised that they made it to 40K. I've had the off-brand that you get at parts stores on vehicles in the past, and usually, I don't get 20K out of them. Those Toyota OEM pads on that Taco impressed me right down to my socks. And that's what I'll put on the T4R when the time comes. Probably before the time comes; if I get an extra day off work and my body isn't aching too much to start a project, I'll replace them just so that I know what is on there. (I bought this T4R used)

Second, the rotors. sales claims otherwise, there is a definite difference in the quality of the steel used. The cheap "white box" rotors just won't last as well as the good stuff will. They will warp at lower temperatures, and wear quicker. You could give me a set of white box rotors for my T4R, and I would hand them back to you, and go down to the local dealer and buy the OEMS, or maybe consider slotted premium aftermarkets.

And finally, a few words about quality of workmanship.

When I replaced the front pads on that Tacoma, I also had the rotors & drums turned, general "best practices".

However, I did this on a Sunday, and forgot to consider that none of the better auto shops would be able to turn rotors on a Sunday, so I made the mistake of taking them to the local Pep boys, as they had the advantage of being the only place with a lathe that was open.

Sure enough, these semi-trained monkeys frakked up the rotors. I ended up having to wait till Monday & getting a new set from the local Toyota dealer. Yes, I know. My own damned fault for not planning the job better and taking them to Pep boys to begin with. But I didn't want to have any downtime.

Yes, it can be tempting to use lower cost replacement parts from NAPA/CarQuest or whatever is in your area, but in the long run, it's not worth it.

This is a general poll. You are right that brake wear depends on the driver. Although I am very mellow on the breaks they have lasted 50,000+

Napa has quality parts ....now advance and auto zone etc..will offer some Cheap parts you may not want to put on an expensive rig.......


The quality "Ultra Premium Rotors" that I bought are actually identical or even better than the OEM rotors...AND THEY ARE NOT WHITE BOX ROTORS. Hold them side to side.....I know this because I have used both. They are made of the same metals.

AS FOR THe calipers ....The NAPA ones I purchased are IDENTICAL to the OEM calipers they are the same metal and are actually from the same factory! THEY HAVE THE SAME METAL STAMP CODES 13WH i believe. Most brake calipers come from the same factories FYI.

Soooo I am not sure what you are talking about cheap????


I am sure most of the t4r org would agree. OEM parts are for sure good and preferable! If you can save a few bucks and get something identical or even better would be justified! Now there are some parts that I would buy OEM like a control arm or something the would offset important driving factory specs.

*********
When I usually post questions and information on t4r.org I tend to look for folks that give good knowledge and information so I can learn from what they have experienced . As for my polls.... most are for curiosity not for bashing FYI.

 

[Annoyed]

Napa has quality parts ....now advance and auto zone etc..will offer some Cheap parts you may not want to put on an expensive rig.......


The quality "Ultra Premium Rotors" that I bought are actually identical or even better than the OEM rotors...AND THEY ARE NOT WHITE BOX ROTORS. Hold them side to side.....I know this because I have used both. They are made of the same metals.

AS FOR THe calipers ....The NAPA ones I purchased are IDENTICAL to the OEM calipers they are the same metal and are actually from the same factory! THEY HAVE THE SAME METAL STAMP CODES 13WH i believe. Most brake calipers come from the same factories FYI.

Napa/Auto Zone/Advance/Parts Plus/etc.. whichever. They're all about the same. And in fact, most of them obtain their parts via the exact same distribution channels. For example, in this area, most go through Hahn Automotive for much of their stock.

How can you tell the rotors are identical by holding them up side to side? Yes, that will give a rough comparison of their dimensions, but tells you nothing about the hardness or other metallurgical qualities of the steel used.

As far as the stamping on the calipers, you're probably looking at rebuilt calipers at an aftermarket parts shop, hence the identical casting markings.

 

[jeober]

I just replaced the rear pads and rotors at 107,000 miles. The rotors are in good shape and the pads probably were good for another year, but the wear was a bit "tilted" across the pad. I just had the spare part sitting for years and it just was time to do this.

I will do the fronts later this summer. I really do drive "like an old lady" but I plan to keep my truck 10+ years.

 

[Trdsupranick]

Napa/Auto Zone/Advance/Parts Plus/etc.. whichever. They're all about the same. And in fact, most of them obtain their parts via the exact same distribution channels. For example, in this area, most go through Hahn Automotive for much of their stock.

How can you tell the rotors are identical by holding them up side to side? Yes, that will give a rough comparison of their dimensions, but tells you nothing about the hardness or other metallurgical qualities of the steel used.

As far as the stamping on the calipers, you're probably looking at rebuilt calipers at an aftermarket parts shop, hence the identical casting markings.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=50041&highlight=calipers


others agree that napa rotors are of good quality....and yes my calipers are remanufactured.....why would i pay twice the price when my "remans" are practically new?!!

 

[Trdsupranick]

I have put 1k on these...hardly any brake dust...super quiet and stop amazingly...love them so far!!!!


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[mom]

noticed vibration in my pedal. does that mean i have to have my rotors resurfaced?... can old brake pads cause vibration? how do i know if i need rotors resurfaced? any info would help

Once the rotors are turned they will probably warp again.

The very first step in solving a problem is understanding that problem. Rotors (almost) never warp, so the problem is elsewhere.

Don't believe me. Just read the references quoted in this thread.

Once you understand what causes your pedal pulsations, the solution should be both obvious and simple.

Whether or not your solution is the same as mine was depends on the cause of your pedal pulsations.

But, I can assure you, it's not warp!

Most likely, it's this ...